well, it also helps if i have the configurator set to 10-20AFR and not 1-1.5lamda....actual numbers in boost were closer to 11.5:1 AFR...still working on it.

 

Yeah get your LC analog out programmed correctly (not the default) and get your config set up for it. Otherwise, what's the point?

Your DC is still a bunch higher than mine. I wouldn't think you're making significantly more hp.

 

I have now, forgot about the LC-1 programmer when i reinstalled, didn't have it outputting correctly now...it's all good now, just had to tune a bit more...im close, im working on cruise, boost is easy.

 

Tuning cruise is super easy with 2 people. Get someone else to drive while you make tweaks on the laptop. Just explain to them that you need them to hold vac and rpm.

I had a friend of mine drive, and we got it 99% by driving up the highway 1 exit (6 miles, in light traffic) and we taking the surface streets back.

 

I'm just leaving realtime mode on with the cursor on "follow" mode. if i notice a spot on the WB gauge that needs tuning I just jab shift+up or down to move that area a point. Worked so far.....alreayd had it close enough from before, just the numbers were about 2 points off.

 

autotune i like 14 psi as well

 

cursor follow mode is awesome

 

i had to rescale my fuel table. there was a spot in between 2400 and 3000RPM that needed to be split...always too rich or too lean....added another row in vacuum as well, boost is easy to tune, probably only need rows.

 

go for it as long as your high load part of the table doesn't suffer. the ms will interpolate between values, so it won't hurt to remove a row if the values aren't going to change much.

however, I would advise not removing any high load rows until after you've dyno tuned them. you may find out later that you need some more resolution up top. I'd absolutely sacrifice a tad of economy at 2500 rpm to get the boosted stuff right. you shouldn't really be spending any time at 2500 rpm anyway.

i have a rich spot at right about 2.8-3k in light load. personally, I don't care, it may come out--I haven't tried. i don't spend much time there. the cruise parts of my map are all 14-15:1. And I have a limited highway band at 15-16:1.

My tuner advised me to keep cruise around 14:1 to help keep egt a little lower. He said it would help bring temps back in check after long boosted runs. sounded good to me. the motor's more expensive than a little extra fuel.

 

It's working out ok. I'm shooting for 15-14.5:1 cruise.

I'm basically starting from scrtach now with this new scale...trying to get it close enough that when i take it to the dyno i wont have to fool around with it too much.

There's a lot of 35 40mprh street around here where I drive slow in 4th and 5th, I hate seeing 12:1 there.

boost rows are fine.

btw hiting 76% at a real 11.5AFR

 

i cruise at 15.5-16, that'll run cooler than 14:1, and get better mileage. stoic is the hottest mixture. i just leaned it out till i got surging and then added it back in.

 

+1!

 

+1 also

 

Hmmm I need to lean mine out a bit then. I think I am cruising at 14.5'ish

 

Heh... I'm so lazy... I'm getting 30mpg in my turbo civic and cruising at like 13.5

Sigh.