mxnige

No my '96 didn't come with a crank posn sensor. I'm using a trigger wheel welded to the bottom pulley damper and a ford VR sensor. For cmp im using a modified cas (removing all but the smallest inner tooth and roting to an ideal posistion).

When it does occasionaly start it's fine and doesn't lose sync, it's just cranking now that it doesn't like.

I'm ging to double check vr sensor wiring now. Also I edited post 12 because it had the wrong sceenshot in it.

bcrx7

iTrader: (5)

Have you tried moving the VR sensor closer? I have found out on a few setup now that the recommended gap of sensor to the wheel was too far. Give that a try!

soviet

iTrader: (10)

oh, well then I assumed wrong. woops.

mxnige

After leaving the battery to re charge for an hour (it's been on constant charge all day with me cranking it over every 20 mins) and readjusting the sensor posistion, the car now starts and runs, at least for now.

I'm confused by this though; having my #1 tooth angle at approx 70 degrees the car runs almost the same as having it at 240 degrees. The strobe light matches the spark angle on Tuner studio with both of these angles. Can anyone explain this? and which do I use? Using this guide (MS2-Extra Dual Wheel Manual) would suggest seting it at 240, but no one else seems to have an angle this large.
To the guys who run dual wheels, how did you get your trigger angle?

Thanks again everyone for their help so far.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

With the wrong trigger settings and waste spark, you are effectively batch-fuel and wasted spark so the car will still run, it just runs like it has Downs'.

mxnige

Back to it's old tricks again. I can't see why it starts sometimes and not others.

mxnige

Also when starting aswell as losing sync it back fires, not sure if it's out of the exhaust or inlet, or if its even relevent.

mxnige

Finally got this sorted.
With a combination of using the LM1815 circuit for the crank sensor input, and filing down the tip of the sensor to get it as close to the wheel as possible.