can you check out my timing issue....I think I'm dumb and cant use an advance timing light.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/sh...59&postcount=1

basically I had to advance my entire timing map 8° throughout to make close to the power I was previously....my LC-1 unit crapped out on me so I had a bad tune regardless, but I netted 20 hp & tq at the wheels from advancing 8° throughout. this makes me think I set my timing to 0° when MS thinks it's 10°

 

Should have said something at the dyno as I had my timing light in the trunk. Basically, set the fixed timing setting on MS to whatever you want 0 or 10 and make sure that it matches the spot that lights up on your wheel.

e.g. I set my fixed timing to 10 degrees so MS was putting out a constant 10 degrees at idle which I double checked with a simultaneous log to be sure, then used my timing light to match the notch on the pulley to the 10 degree mark on the plastic thing. But what do I know, I'm the only one that left the dyno with a broken car. :gay:

 

Sorry I needed to leave early, I had one in my trunk also.

 

Ya what happened brg? I saw the picture of the oil puddle, you throw a rod or something?

 

Not sure yet. Can't really check out the car till Monday at the earliest, but at least I was able to limp home.

Scott, here's my idea. Have Ms set the idle fix at 0 degrees. Then set your timing light at 10 degrees advance (since you said that you have to dial in a advance. Notch should line up with the 10 degree mark.

 

I'm confused...why not set timing at 0, to jive with 0 on MS?

 

I don't really understand what is going on either.
You set static timing to 10-15 in ms instead of the -10 that is default. Then adjust the timing angle value untill the pulley matches whatever static timing value you used. I personally set it to 14 and adjusted my timing angle to 71 for example to get the the timing light reading the 14 that MS was supposed to be adjusting it to. I would set my timing light to zero advance to take that variable out of the question.
Is that what you did or are doing and it didn't work or what?

 

I set the light to 10, MS to 10, and notch at 0....

user maual for a digital advance light says:

View timing marks. Push ^ and V until moving mark is aligned with staionary "0" degere mark.

Write down initial timing from timing light display.

so with MS on 10, my light on 10, and the mark on 0, makes me think I set it right...so this makes me assume the timing table I'm using is off.

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this is what I started with:


this is what I got it to on the dyno before I stopped....no signs of ping:

 

yes run the stock timming map and pull the same as your bipes did Brian has posted the charts set to that the FM values are just ultra conservative.

 

now its in english

 

Now it is correct don't fix it if you are going to do it incorrectly Hustler. Is missing 1 capitilization point a period and a coma that important to you. I for one know that when i read i dont notice them at all unless i go back and look but then mayb I read to much.

 

You spelling "timing" wrong too. :gay:

 

lol

your posts kill my soul.

 

Yeah, form everything I've read the Flyin Miata maps are conservative...for good reason. You can see when I took Al's map and advanced it by 8* in boost that I got really close to Flyin Miatas at 180kPa...this makes me think Al's table is just too retarded...I saw no signs of ping, and I could how pushed it. I'm going to rock the table based off Flyin miata values, and probably take the car to a "loaded" dyno for tuning once I get my WBo2 issue solved.

 

Dude like i suggested before, the bipes modified stock ecu map should be your starting point. You have already proven how reliable that is. Why would MS be any different?

 

cause im still not smart enough to read to my timing map and complete understand it.

well I went through FMs defaults and Al's maps dead on to what FM says....so that got me thinking again....I know they are conservative, but with the Bipes I was only pulling 8° from a 16° static, so around 23° total advance at 4k between 160-180 kPa (the stock ecu should be at 25° at 4k, +6-8=23). If you look what I advanced the tables to on the dyno I was close to that mark...hense my power back....so Al's map should be a good start, but I feel it's just too conservvative in boost for power. So I'm sure I set the timing correctly.

 

so based on that, this is what I'll try:



basically pulling 3° in boost.