We'd only void the warranty if you actually made changes to the board - unscrewing the lid and putting a boot jumper in place doesn't count unless you use a soldering iron.

And yes, if it goes wrong you can just reload the standard code.

Great to have such a supportive vendor! I will be the guinea pig with this as I have ordered my LC-1 now. I'll keep you guys posted.

So, my MegaSquirt PNP is now running HighRes 10d2! Overall, I'm impressed with the change, it seems to idle more like it did with the stock computer. I had to fine tune my idle a bit but that didn't take long.

I have noticed a couple of times that I get a slight miss and the tach drops a bit for no apparent reason, I will try and pin point why or when it is happening.

The steps I took to install HighRes:

1. Downloaded the HighRes 10d2 firmware image from the MS1 development section of msextra.com.

2. Grabbed msns-extra.s19 and msns-extra.ini from the zip file, discarded the rest.

3. Modded msns-extra.s19 with EasyTherm so it used the same values as the standard MSPNP firmware.

You can start at step 4 if you use my modified (MSPNP prepped) HighRes 10d2 firmware.

4. Made a copy of my current MegaSquirt project folder. My old project folder was called "MSPNP MM9093 with AFM", so I made a copy called "MSPNP MM9093 with AFM HR10d2".

5. Copied msns-extra.s19 and msns-extra.ini into the new project folder created in step 4. Also dropped another copy of msns-extra.s19 into the "src" subfolder.

6. Unplugged my ignitor.

7. Ran download-firmware.bat from the new project folder.

8. Fire up MegaTune, choose your new project then load your old MSQ. You will get a few warnings, check the audit.log to ensure nothing is too serious. Once the MSQ is loaded, switch the car off again.

9. Plug the ignitor back in.

10. Start the car on HighRes!

Shouldn't it be:

6. Unplug ignitor
7. Run download-firmware.bat
7b. Reload MSQ
8. Plug in ignitor

I *think* I remember the docs saying that you can fry your ignitor if you don't reload your .msq before plugging it back in.

Nice work and thanks for posting the step by step - I'll have to try it at some point.

Cheers!

Jeff

Yes you are correct! The first time you re-load the MSQ after the flash you need to have the ignitor unplugged, but after that it doesn't matter. I will amend the steps now, thanks! :bigtu:

Just FYI I have posted about the miss on msextra.com:
http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?p=177785#177785

this miss is why I reverted b ack to the stock code, I'd assumed that it was earthing related.

I don't get the tach dropout tho...

seems lIke Jerry has fixed the problem, ood job that man!! I'll be getting my soldering iron out over the weekend then :)

fantastic news :)

That is some clever troubleshooting. Good thing my MS is still on the bench- that mod will be going in shortly. :bigtu:

Now that the problems fixed I need to get off my tail and do this as well. Should be able to tackle it this weekend. I need better idle bad.

ditto and the extra 2 - 3mpg I pickup last time I used it will go down well too :)

Could someone snap a couple of pics and post them while they are doing the "cap" mod. I will be getting my MS from braineak shortly and am considering doing this once i make sure that the ms is working correctly. I have soldiered a modchip into just about everyone of my gaming consoles including one in a brand new wii so i think i should be up for the task of soldering in one little .1uf capacitor. So the hires code really makes that much of a diff. huh? Does it add alot more time into fine tuning the fuel and timing maps?

worked a treat, top job Jerry :)

I very occasionally had the same miss when running the stock code, and it's completely killed the lot.

I love it when such a cheap component makes such a big difference :)

Pin 11 and ground, it's pretty obvious when you look at the board. Pin11 will already have a lead jumpered off it, there's a ground parked near to the proto area. don't forget to insulate the bare ends of the leads, I used the insulation for telephone wire, perfect thickness.

no, doesn't work like that, it adds more resolution into the timing of the injectors, so instead of it being for example 2.1ms it'll be 2.134ms.

yes that small difference is huge if you have big high impedance injectors

so JS8 and ground, put the cap? that's it?

no Pin11 off the CPU, before the resistor, not after. JS8 is an output for CAN?

obviously neg of the cap goes to ground ;)

Oh ok. When i heard hires i figured it changed the size and number of cell in the fuel and timing tables.

JS8 goes straight up to pin 11 correct?

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/v3pcb_1.gif

On a 3.0 PCB, yes:

http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/9624/mscpuuc6.gif

I'm thinking to be slick, just lay the cap between pins 11 and 20.

19 looks like the ground to me in that pic.

-Mike

did not know that, I guess you can use JS8 then.

This is where my flakey electronics knowledge comes to the fore, how can an output for CAN (on the MS2, which uses the same socket as the MS1) also be the input for a cam trigger?

fecking confuses me!