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Old 11-27-2007, 10:03 PM   #1
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Default I got the EBC functioning...I love shiny things.

When I plugged in the MS initially, the blue LED integrated into my dash switch was on, indicating a good circuit. I can disconnect the wire going into the harness and ground it to get the blue LED on... so I know the connection is good.

But when I plug the wire back into the harness, now the light won't go on. I understand that the MS simply acts as a ground to activate the EBC and that the blue LED should be ON when it's not dumping boost... also when the engine is off. But the led won't come on.

Could I have turned the EBC "off"? I couldn't find an "off" software function and haven't made any changes to the tune in any of the boost related windows. I even pulled the pin out of the harness Brain made for me and touched the wires together... no joy.

Any thoughts?
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Old 11-27-2007, 10:10 PM   #2
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Go into General Settings-> Codebase Output Functions
Make sure X4 JS2 is turned on to Boost Control. That is how you turn it on and off at the root.
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Old 11-27-2007, 10:32 PM   #3
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The setting is correct in Codebased Output.

After some diagnosing, I've discovered something. The circuit is only completing (ie, the blue LED comes on) when I plug in my USB>Serial cable... regardless of the laptop being connected to the cable. When I remove the cable, the light goes out and nothing will bring it back.

I'm at a loss when it comes to circuitry.
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Old 11-27-2007, 10:39 PM   #4
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Maybe a short in your DB37 connector?

When you go plug in your DB9 cable, do have to move your MS unit or is secured down?

An intermintent short would appear to only be with the cable, but it'd really be just moving the MS and harness around.

Just a thought...
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Old 11-27-2007, 10:49 PM   #5
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The MS is just sitting on the passenger floor right now while I get everything sorted out.

At least at night I'll never forget that the EBC is on.
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I got the EBC functioning...I love shiny things.-dsc00601-large-.jpg  
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Old 11-27-2007, 11:27 PM   #6
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OK, something isn't right. I've tried reversing the 2 wires going into the EBC and cycling it "off/on" in the codebased output and burning it between the changes. Since I don't have the redwire/blackwire connector with my solenoid, can somebody confirm based on the pic below that the 12v power wire goes on the "bracket" side of the solenoid, and the ground wire from the MS goes on the side w/o bracket.

Here's the kicker:
The blue LED never flickers but remains permanently bright as long as the SERIAL cable is plugged in... but I've still just got wastegate pressure! It doesn't make sense... with the circuit being completed, even if it's just grounding it out, I should have unlimited boost.

The boost lines going from the COMPRESSOR>SOLENOID>ACTUATOR are correct via the instructions the pic in Brains FAQ:

I just can't figure it out. With a grounded solenoid, I SHOULD have unlimited boost. I'm sure it's something really small I'm overlooking... somebody help!
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Old 11-27-2007, 11:35 PM   #7
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That shows 12v positive.
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Old 11-27-2007, 11:56 PM   #8
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OK, I had it right the first time, and wrong after I changed it... it's correct now... but that still doesn't explain why I'm not seeing the light flicker. Since the solenoid is activating off the BoostTargets MAP, it's really independent of the actual boost being made, right?

Confirm that as long as I have the EBC functioning, I should be seeing that blue LED flicker, and and since it isn't, I should have unlimited boost.

Would the wires being reversed cause the solenoid to be held OPEN as long as the blue LED was on and giving me only wastegate?
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Old 11-28-2007, 08:13 AM   #9
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You're trying for open loop boost control, right? So the "boost duty target" table is controlling, since you essentially tricked closed loop to be bypassed by setting "boost kpa target" table values to be more than the "closed loop kpa limit" away from actual values?
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Old 11-28-2007, 09:43 AM   #10
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I would think with no rpm or kpa input the DC would be full open or full closed. You might just have to do this once your car is running.
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Old 11-28-2007, 09:53 AM   #11
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^Atlanta, you just went over my head there... with the exception of taking out some fuel at idle to get my AF a little leaner, I've made no changes at all to the tune that Scott sent me. I did change the dwell settings for my 1.6coils, but that's it.

^Magna, I'm getting good RPM and Boost Inputs in to MS verified by Megatune and this is all happening while running.

I drove it to work this morning and still nothing. My LED is on, indicating a good circuit (and I assume the solenoid is fully closed) and I still get only wastegate pressure. Is there a way to verify the solenoid isn't faulty. Should it make any noise (a click) when I apply power to it like any other solenoid? Should I be able to blow through it one way and not the other?
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Old 11-28-2007, 09:57 AM   #12
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sam, simply try changing all the the DC% numbers in the Duty Cycle Targets table.

change them all the 100%. But! Turn your overboost protection on to 10psi, then go out and drive. If you suddenly hit a rev limiter, it's working and you just need to tune the values.

IIRC, your values are at 20%, which is probably wastegate pressure still.



I also don't believe MS will activate the EBC ground until it sees 100rpm (or whatever the lowest RPM in your DC Targets table is)


The wiring on your board looks good, I just reviewed my pictures, so unless the FET itself is bad, I don't see why it wouldn't be working. Make sure the pin you use lines up with the blue/white striped wire. Now you also got me thinking if I didn't swap the fan and EBC output wires, however, I believe you tested the fans operate as they should when you play with the numbers. Plus I'm again looking at pics, and the EBC goes to IAC1B, which is pin 27 on the harness, which I make the blue/white lead, which it looks like i've done on your harness.


also the polarity on the valve itself doesn't really matter. but to test the valve, just hit the ground wire to the frame, with the igniton turned to ON, it should click when you do.


if that doesn't work, zip your msq file and post it here so i can take a look.
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Old 11-28-2007, 10:09 AM   #13
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Brain, thanks for the text... will try all that stuff when I get home tonight. Now that you mention overboost, I noticed that yours was up at like 17psi and I turned it down to 14psi the first day just in case.

I'll hit up those values to 100% and go for a drive.

Fans work perfectly off and on at the set temps so that wire is correct.

The only thing that just confuses the hell outa me is that I can verify the circuit is being made via the blue LED, and with that circuit made, the solenoid should be closed preventing any air from reaching the wastegate can... but I still only get wastegate pressure.
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Old 11-28-2007, 10:22 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
Brain, thanks for the text... will try all that stuff when I get home tonight. Now that you mention overboost, I noticed that yours was up at like 17psi and I turned it down to 14psi the first day just in case.

I'll hit up those values to 100% and go for a drive.

Fans work perfectly off and on at the set temps so that wire is correct.

The only thing that just confuses the hell outa me is that I can verify the circuit is being made via the blue LED, and with that circuit made, the solenoid should be closed preventing any air from reaching the wastegate can... but I still only get wastegate pressure.
Maybe you should get rid of this switch all together, maybe its messing up the circuit.
What are you trying to do with this switch anyway, make an artificial boost limiter? When its off you are using wastegate pressure, when its on your using the solenoid?

You can test the circuit pretty simply. Get a DMM and hook one end to the signal coming from the MS and one to the ground on the chassis. If your getting 0 while standing still then its not complete, then do whatever you have to do to make it send a ground if you get 12 volts you got a working circuit.


I also ran into some problems with the proper pinout. According to a chart Brain posted in the howto, 2B should come out on pin 29, except it doesnt.
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Old 11-28-2007, 10:43 AM   #15
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^Good point... it wouldn't be the first time a $2 PepBoys ricer ghetto part screwed up an otherwise perfectly good build. I'll ad "remove the dash switch" to my troubleshooting inventory.
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Old 11-28-2007, 11:16 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
I also ran into some problems with the proper pinout. According to a chart Brain posted in the howto, 2B should come out on pin 29, except it doesnt.
IAC2A COMES OUT ON 29. which is where i put his fan control, IAC1B comes out on 27 where I put his EBC.

IAC2B is the spark output (pin 25), and obviously that's working for him....

Sam's Mods:





Sam also, the LED will most likely simply dim proportionately to the DC, not flash. It should NOT light with the ignition to ON, it should light once the car is started, as it should trigger at 100rpm (verify this for me in your DC% table).

Last edited by Braineack; 11-28-2007 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 11-28-2007, 02:25 PM   #17
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Hmmmm. Im gonna have to check my pinout on mine, something fishy is going on.
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Old 11-28-2007, 03:12 PM   #18
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well, did you build your db37 harness correctly? it's all gotta match up....
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Old 11-28-2007, 03:12 PM   #19
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So, upon returning home, first thing is to get rid of the inline switch and set all my Targets to 100% and lower my overboost protection for some safety.

I'll also get up close to the solenoid and ground it out with my ear next to it to make sure the valve is working... then report back.

Saml01, you're correct about the function of the switch... it's intended for me to be able to drive under wastegate only for everyday stuff and have the switch there to activate the EBC whenever an extra 50whp is needed on short notice. Short notice: for the wife, or valet, or rain, or buddies. I figured on 8psi for the wastegate, and around 13-14psi w/EBC. Based on other's results, and my previous dyno runs, 8psi should get me around 165whp, and 14psi about 220whp.

Previously I made [email protected] before I ran out of safe fuel.
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Old 11-28-2007, 03:19 PM   #20
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Dude, just get rid of the switch. Set DC to 100%. Set the RPM really low too. If I am right, and it basically locks out the boost signal when current is applied then just use a DMM to test for voltage while the car is standing still. Simple. No listening involved.
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