I got the EBC functioning...I love shiny things. - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 11-28-2007, 03:25 PM   #21
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same how is your LED switch wired?

power to solenoid, and the supply to MS right? Then the ground to the frame somewhere?

the LED must just never work right, what you could do is wire the LED switch on the +12v side, then to the solenoid. ground to the frame.
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Old 11-28-2007, 03:28 PM   #22
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Sam, you'll know if the solenoid is working or not when you start your car. The solenoid will click around like a ***** after you hit the key for a few seconds. I assume you have the same GM solenoid I do; if so, it's loud as ***** and can be plainly heard in the cabin from the engine compartment.
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Old 11-28-2007, 04:16 PM   #23
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Sam, you'll know if the solenoid is working or not when you start your car. The solenoid will click around like a ***** after you hit the key for a few seconds. I assume you have the same GM solenoid I do; if so, it's loud as ***** and can be plainly heard in the cabin from the engine compartment.
The solenoids are pretty damn loud. I took a piece of vacuum line, cut a 1/4 inch of it and used it as a bushing so it doesn't transfer the noise through the chassis. Mine isn't working either right now. Need to figure that out as well.
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Old 11-28-2007, 04:55 PM   #24
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^Brain, I think you're right about the way the switch is supposed work. I think I do need to wire it on the 12v side and no the ground side.
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Old 11-28-2007, 04:57 PM   #25
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Or you could replace your LED switch for a stand 2-pin toggle switch.
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Old 11-28-2007, 05:06 PM   #26
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But then I wouldn't have the super-cool-uber-ricer LED on my dash. I'm Squirted now man... BLING BLING!!!!!!!!!
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Old 11-28-2007, 05:19 PM   #27
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you really picked the brightest blue LED you could find huh?
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Old 11-28-2007, 05:53 PM   #28
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^Brain, I think you're right about the way the switch is supposed work. I think I do need to wire it on the 12v side and no the ground side.
Technically it doesnt matter what side you ground it on as long as you have the polarity right.
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Old 11-28-2007, 05:56 PM   #29
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those led switches have three ports, iirc.

a 12v, source, and ground.

if you wire though the 12v and source it will work like a normal switch and the LED will never light. ground the ground to the frame and the LED should light when switched.
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Old 11-28-2007, 06:01 PM   #30
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Technically it doesnt matter what side you ground it on as long as you have the polarity right.
So then it would matter which leg is grounded then eh
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Old 11-28-2007, 07:06 PM   #31
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Well, the EBC works perfectly... so does the Overboost Protection... so does the rev-limiter. Ask how I found out... go ahead... ask.

<I'll pause for your internal monologue to ask me>

OK,
Well, I simply removed that blue led switch from the equation.
I went for a drive and pulled out of my housing development... once pointed in a straight line, I floored it in 1st gear. I had left the Overboost at 14 psi. I can't remember when it actually hit 14psi (way sooner than ever before), but it built so quickly that the rear-end went sideways almost instantly... while I immediately spent 100% of brainpower to keep the car going straight, the OB kicked in and dumped all boost in about .002 seconds... which threw me forward in the seat and I couldn't lift my foot off the gas in time and then I found the rev-limiter.

Now I need to do some 4th gear pulls to dial it in... but I know the clutch isn't going to like that... so I just need a full afternoon to a couple long drives to autotune and do some good boost-target re-adjustment for my T25 as the current tune is for Brains' T3s60.

Really guys, thanks for all the help... I'm sure somebody will find this thread and save themselves a lot of grief. I am going to replace the stupid LED switch with a regular 2-pos toggle so I can still have the wastegate/EBC option... but no LED this time.

This thread should be retitled: "SamNavy is distracted by shiny objects"... mods be gentle.
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Old 11-28-2007, 07:15 PM   #32
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Yayy EBC. Glad to hear it, damn switches.
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Old 11-28-2007, 07:15 PM   #33
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no reason why it shouldn't work with the switch wired in, unless the switch itself is faulty.
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Old 11-28-2007, 07:26 PM   #34
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Or you just have no idea how to wire a switch :P
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Old 11-28-2007, 07:39 PM   #35
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no reason why it shouldn't work with the switch wired in, unless the switch itself is faulty.
It is most likely a SPST switch.

I am sure the LED is drawing power (resistance) from the EBC circut and messing up the readings.

This is why you use a DPDT switch with 2 independant circuts, one for the LED, the other for the EBC.

This is how I am going to wire up all my toggle switch functions on the MS in the spring. (NLTS, EBC, Dual Table, etc)
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Old 11-28-2007, 07:44 PM   #36
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NLTS? Unfamiliar acronym.
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Old 11-28-2007, 08:27 PM   #37
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sam adjust your clutch pedal like i said first! make sure the rod is pull out from the firewall, towards you in the seat....just see if there is anymore room to move and see if it helps, it may, it may not. anyways, you can still tune for whatever boost it can hold



take a few logs in 3rd gear from 1k to 3k, see how the boost rises, see where you target hits, tune the second column a few hundred rpm below that, that will allow for best spool, then find the DC% target that bests sustains the boost target to redline.


im glad your lovin' the MS.
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Old 11-28-2007, 09:40 PM   #38
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Cool beans Sam
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Old 11-28-2007, 09:44 PM   #39
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Yup, loving it!
Just a couple more little things to do... ground the fuel pump properly, clutch pedal, tune boost targets, install proper switch (just bought plain old non-led on/off toggle)... and a few more things.

Keep the info coming, love this new toy!!!
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Old 11-28-2007, 10:15 PM   #40
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You can still use the LED togle to run your FP
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