I Messed Up- ST SIG HELP
#21
Boost Pope
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,039
Total Cats: 6,607
I'm still struggling to understand why the engine is running with the AFM removed if, in fact, the transistor is fried.
#22
I couldn't tell ya. I just know that I have the AFM removed with IAT sensor installed to slots 1 and 6 on the connector. Last night, I hadthe fuse pulled out and it idled for at least a minute. I would post a data log but I didn't record one. I can post my tune, though.
Maybe the transistor isn't fried.. But it should be... So I don't know.
Maybe the transistor isn't fried.. But it should be... So I don't know.
#23
FWIW, my miata can and will siphon fuel from the tank, that was with RX8 yellow injectors.
I had the fuel pump relay removed, and it still turned over and would idle but nothing else. I was purposely trying to run the lines dead, twice, two separate times, and it did it both times. I've pulled my charcoal can and honestly have no idea what I've done with it there, it's possible I had pressure in the tank helping feed the fuel down the lines.
My transistor was certainly fried too, like a giant chunk of it missing. I replaced it and pulled the fuse and all is well in the world.
I had the fuel pump relay removed, and it still turned over and would idle but nothing else. I was purposely trying to run the lines dead, twice, two separate times, and it did it both times. I've pulled my charcoal can and honestly have no idea what I've done with it there, it's possible I had pressure in the tank helping feed the fuel down the lines.
My transistor was certainly fried too, like a giant chunk of it missing. I replaced it and pulled the fuse and all is well in the world.
#27
Just to recap, I have a '90 with a DIYPNP and started it with the 10A ST SIG fuse in place- oops. I just jumped F/P to GND in the diagnostics box for now so the fuel pump will come on (and stay on) whenever the key is in the on position.
I am using the attached base tune and it will startup and idle pretty well. I even drove it up and down the street once. I noticed that the car won't produce boost at all. My boost gauge shows me vacuum pressure and the vacuum pressure going to 0 when I give it gas but it will not ever rise above 0.
P.S. I don't know how to post my tune and/or datalog of it idling...
I am using the attached base tune and it will startup and idle pretty well. I even drove it up and down the street once. I noticed that the car won't produce boost at all. My boost gauge shows me vacuum pressure and the vacuum pressure going to 0 when I give it gas but it will not ever rise above 0.
P.S. I don't know how to post my tune and/or datalog of it idling...
#30
Boost Pope
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,039
Total Cats: 6,607
That would have to be a large boost leak.
Much larger than a 3mm hose.
This may seem like a silly question, but we've been giving very little in the way of hard data and nothing in the way of pictures: Are you sure that the turbine wheel inside the turbo is spinning freely?
Much larger than a 3mm hose.
This may seem like a silly question, but we've been giving very little in the way of hard data and nothing in the way of pictures: Are you sure that the turbine wheel inside the turbo is spinning freely?
#31
Yes, the turbine wheel spins freely. I can either spin it by hand or watch it while I give it gas from the engine bay. It appears to be moving very freely and everything.
I don't have hose clamps or zip ties around any of my boost/vac line connections, though, either. I have them going from MBC to turbo and wastegate, intake mani to BOV, and intake mani to boost gauge. Should I zip tie or clamp those connections? They seemed really tight with the 3mm hose so I didn't bother with it.
P.S. I tried just turbo to wastegate as well. It's a Hallman Pro MBC if that would mean anything to anyone.
I don't have hose clamps or zip ties around any of my boost/vac line connections, though, either. I have them going from MBC to turbo and wastegate, intake mani to BOV, and intake mani to boost gauge. Should I zip tie or clamp those connections? They seemed really tight with the 3mm hose so I didn't bother with it.
P.S. I tried just turbo to wastegate as well. It's a Hallman Pro MBC if that would mean anything to anyone.
#36
Okay guys, I double checked all of my clamps, couplers, and lines. They all seem very tight. I am still not going over 0 PSI according to my boost gauge when I drive it.
Where should I look to now? I took videos of the turbine, gauges at idle, and gauges under load. Will be on Youtube shortly
Where should I look to now? I took videos of the turbine, gauges at idle, and gauges under load. Will be on Youtube shortly
#40
I can assure you it was/is running on all four. The issue was an exhaust leak where the exhaust housing mates to the manifold. That's why it sounded like a lawnmower and also explains the obnoxious back firing up in the engine bay. I bought locking nuts and those seemed to work.
What does l2t mean?
What does l2t mean?