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Old 12-06-2012, 11:24 PM   #1
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Default IAC mod on MS2 V3.0

Background, i've been changing over my MS2 V3.0 from Rx7 mode to Miata 1.6 mode. I have the IAC mod kit mostly installed, but i haven't got a good bead on what others have done with the diode. The Megamanual instructions seem to want me to use it in the wiring actually near the IAC itself. Is that the right way or best way to do it?

Also, the dual BIP373, how are people mounting both of them when they are tapped out on the heat sink. the FAQ mentioned stacking but that doesn't seem optimal. I think i can just attach them to the faceplate with the DB37 correct?
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:33 PM   #2
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We don't run bips
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Old 12-06-2012, 11:40 PM   #3
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thats what i get for going off the diyautotune FAQ?

so with that i should work in the "new fangled" spark version i see on here?
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Old 12-07-2012, 12:04 AM   #4
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IAC mod on MS2 V3.0-img_0401.jpg   IAC mod on MS2 V3.0-img_0403.jpg  
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Old 12-07-2012, 12:14 AM   #5
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yea so my 1.8f lens doesnt like closeups, but anyway. Are people just using the stock ignitors then? I dont happen to have the stock one, so i have to source from a salvage yard. hence, why i was going to go with the BIP373. any reason no one opts for the BIPs?
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Old 12-07-2012, 09:43 AM   #6
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ms2 with msi input mods.



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IAC mod on MS2 V3.0-dsc_0001_mods.jpg   IAC mod on MS2 V3.0-dsc_0003_mods.jpg  
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:00 AM   #7
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okay, so now I have more questions than answers.

1. The diode goes from the middle prong to S12, correct?

2. this is the first time ive seen anyone jump tachselect to XG1

C. Kinda wish i knew what i was doing. Seems like thre are so many options that some people use, that others dont. Case in point. I have the capacitor mod done, which that picture doesnt, but it also has 5v going to C30, which ive never seen before. not to mention other things going on with that picture.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:14 AM   #8
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What Brain posted is just a user friendly version of this:

MS2-Extra Miata 4g63 Manual

If you've not seen people jumping Tachselect and XG1, you've not been looking hard enough, it's required for running a MS on an MX5 with these mods, it sets the board up for using a HALL effect sensor on the CKP input as opposed to say Tachselect to VRIN which sets it up for a VR sensor.

5v to C30 means you have a 5v pullup on the sensor for the CKP. If you saw people use S12C instead that just makes it a 12v pullup.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:31 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richyvrlimited View Post
If you've not seen people jumping Tachselect and XG1, you've not been looking hard enough, it's required for running a MS on an MX5 with these mods, it sets the board up for using a HALL effect sensor on the CKP input as opposed to say Tachselect to VRIN which sets it up for a VR sensor.
Either the "VR" or the "HALL/OPTO" circuit can be made to work. In fact, if you're using an MS3X, there is no "hall" option for the cam input. The cam input on the MS3X is "VR only", though we make it work.

Technically, the input which we now refer to as "hall / opto" was designed for use with breaker points in a distributor.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:35 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Either the "VR" or the "HALL/OPTO" circuit can be made to work. In fact, if you're using an MS3X, there is no "hall" option for the cam input. The cam input on the MS3X is "VR only", though we make it work.

Technically, the input which we now refer to as "hall / opto" was designed for use with breaker points in a distributor.
Thanks for the clarification Joe
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:40 AM   #11
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okay so TACHSELECT should not be jumped to VRIN or OPTOIN but instead to XG1, okay got it.

so what about the fact i followed the diyautotune write up which showed this. I dont seem to see that going on in the above. Specically anything going to a pin on the daughterboard. Is it just a different way to run the pull up resistors then?

I apologize for the questions, but im new, and this is actually quite confusing.

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IAC mod on MS2 V3.0-ms1_v3_msns-e_miata_input_mods_med.jpg  
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:01 AM   #12
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stop looking at MSI ****. wtf.
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:07 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
stop looking at MSI ****. wtf.
this is where i slam my face into the keyboard
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:11 AM   #14
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i suppose that explains why things weren't making any sense to me. Going to desolder all the Ms1 mods i made then and start over.
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:46 AM   #15
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this might help, but it's still REALLY old: Megasquirt 2 Assembly - Miata Turbo FAQ
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:40 PM   #16
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i cant really tell from the picture but is XG1 and XG2 still jumper together as well?
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:56 PM   #17
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no. the jumper running to XG1 bypasses it
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:24 PM   #18
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So, another question. Following the given guide above, i removed all the components that were not needed. I noticed "U2" is shown. I dont have anything for U2 which we just solder the holes. What WOULD go there out of curiosity?
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:30 PM   #19
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the map sensor
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Old 12-09-2012, 12:09 AM   #20
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oh, well i feel stupid now. i need to spend less late nights on this crap.

anyway. all the non used components are removed per the link.

i have all the jumpers, resistors and whatnot finished except the ignition resistor with the 2N2222 mod for the spark. I have a question first.

I DO NOT HAVE the stock ignitors. Is there any reason not to use the Dual BIP373 method as opposed to buying a stock ignitor? This motor is not in a miata.
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