Idle viiiiiibration!
#22
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Jack in every place I tried results in the same vibration. And I do mean...every place
Oh, I have a phone, but it has shitty resolution. I'd prefer you guys be able to see the video much more clearly - it's uploading to youtube now as we speak.
How do you not have a phone that makes video?
#23
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Video as requested, wait untill I get to the rear window to see it. I couldn't keep the cam still enough to demonstrate any other shaking point, I'm not pro like SHOES.
The vibration at idle drives me nuts. :( Seriously, the ENTIRE CAR is shaking like that.
The idle is even harder/harsher than my RX7's idle with MMR mounts (Read: Solid bolt through). I strongly think it has something to do with the ECU, 'cause I've gone through for about the fifth time this morning checking all clearances - everything is correct mechanically, and except for tranny/driveshaft/diff/axles, everything else is gorramn new in the engine bay/drive train at this point.
Last edited by blaen99; 04-14-2012 at 04:31 PM.
#24
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All right, I'm officially at wits end mechanically.
Unless I replace all bushings in the car, I don't see any way this could be caused mechanically.
When I first start it, it vibrates so hard you can see the side windows shake a good inch or so of movement at first. As it warms up, the vibration gets less and less worse.
I don't get any increased vibration with increased rpm. Actually, when I'm moving, the vibration is less worse than at idle.
This even applies if I drive it when it's cold (Bad idea, I know). Seriously, the vibration is less worse when I have my foot on the gas when it's cold vs. let it idle stopped.
I don't see how it could physically be mechanical - higher rpm should mean more vibration, not less. Short of it being PPF alignment, which I eyeballed, I don't know wtf it could be.
Unless I replace all bushings in the car, I don't see any way this could be caused mechanically.
When I first start it, it vibrates so hard you can see the side windows shake a good inch or so of movement at first. As it warms up, the vibration gets less and less worse.
I don't get any increased vibration with increased rpm. Actually, when I'm moving, the vibration is less worse than at idle.
This even applies if I drive it when it's cold (Bad idea, I know). Seriously, the vibration is less worse when I have my foot on the gas when it's cold vs. let it idle stopped.
I don't see how it could physically be mechanical - higher rpm should mean more vibration, not less. Short of it being PPF alignment, which I eyeballed, I don't know wtf it could be.
Last edited by blaen99; 04-14-2012 at 05:53 PM.
#25
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naw it can also mean that the vibration is "smoothed out".
bushings are not the problem.
post vid of engine bay vibrating. AND WITH SOUND. also rev it using the throttle plate while video taping.
bushings are not the problem.
post vid of engine bay vibrating. AND WITH SOUND. also rev it using the throttle plate while video taping.
#28
Also at motor without a idle valve will idle lower at cold by 100-300~ rpm vs when its warmed up, so you maybe near 600 rpms or so cold and 800-1000 rpms warm, and trust me just those hundred rpms make a huge difference in the vibration the motor puts out.
I've dealt with MMR mounts before on a miata, not again unless race car.
if you have stiff mounts in the rear it will also transfer in vibrations too.
#29
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Finally got everything worked out.
Fae, you sir ------- rock. I said ---- the AFRs, tuned by ear and smell just like you said. I got the sucker.
The only thing left is an occassional misfire at idle. But an occassional misfire is no problem.
P.S. ---- the AFR. ---- it hard.
Fae, you sir ------- rock. I said ---- the AFRs, tuned by ear and smell just like you said. I got the sucker.
The only thing left is an occassional misfire at idle. But an occassional misfire is no problem.
P.S. ---- the AFR. ---- it hard.
#32
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5.7 req_fuel with a 48 in the relevant table.
I'm gonna play with the timing and fuel a bit more Fae, but yeah. As soon as I said ---- AFRs, it all went together pretty well. Thanks again man, this made it a very easy solution.
I'm gonna play with the timing and fuel a bit more Fae, but yeah. As soon as I said ---- AFRs, it all went together pretty well. Thanks again man, this made it a very easy solution.
Last edited by blaen99; 04-14-2012 at 08:46 PM.
#33
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Took it out, drove it, did some tuning.
---- yeah boys, this is working well.
The EV14's get the Blaen Seal of Approval. Great set of injectors those are, can't speak highly enough for them. The COPs are great too, for that matter!
---- yeah boys, this is working well.
The EV14's get the Blaen Seal of Approval. Great set of injectors those are, can't speak highly enough for them. The COPs are great too, for that matter!
#34
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Annnd it's back.
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...147#post869147
Swapped in those plugs, gapped to what the manufacturer guys recommended.
Now it idles like absolute dogshit (And vibrates so ------- hard), with near-constant misfiring - previous idle problems were caused by misfiring incidentally. Partial throttle is dogshit, tons of misfiring or hesitation. Decel is dogshit, tons of misfiring or hesitation. Acceleration is the best I've had it yet on the Miata.
What do?
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...147#post869147
Swapped in those plugs, gapped to what the manufacturer guys recommended.
Now it idles like absolute dogshit (And vibrates so ------- hard), with near-constant misfiring - previous idle problems were caused by misfiring incidentally. Partial throttle is dogshit, tons of misfiring or hesitation. Decel is dogshit, tons of misfiring or hesitation. Acceleration is the best I've had it yet on the Miata.
What do?
#35
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You suck. Check your AFR bullshiit again.
Richen up the bith.
I have no clue what those plugs are but maybe some wackass flamefront wierdness happens under full load that don't happen under weaksauce load.
Anyways richen up and shiz
Richen up the bith.
I have no clue what those plugs are but maybe some wackass flamefront wierdness happens under full load that don't happen under weaksauce load.
Anyways richen up and shiz
#37
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I wanna throw something out there;
When my car was first running on MS something caused a CPU reset (power failure or something) that totally bombed my firmware. Thing started running like complete *** in the strangest ways and as a last ditch I reflashed the firmware and that solved it. Worth a shot maybe?
When my car was first running on MS something caused a CPU reset (power failure or something) that totally bombed my firmware. Thing started running like complete *** in the strangest ways and as a last ditch I reflashed the firmware and that solved it. Worth a shot maybe?
#40
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Well, it fixed several things I've been having problems with.
Hell, the goddamn AFR's actually match up perfectly now between tunerstudio and my gauge. Starting is so much better (SO much better) with the new firmware, and it actually helped a little bit with the misfiring.
But it didn't solve it. It's still pretty bad. Should I swap back to my old plugs, and see if they don't have such large problems Ele?
(Edit) Yeah, holy ----. It solved a ton of problems I've been having with various bits and pieces, but it didn't solve the misfiring problem.
Hell, the goddamn AFR's actually match up perfectly now between tunerstudio and my gauge. Starting is so much better (SO much better) with the new firmware, and it actually helped a little bit with the misfiring.
But it didn't solve it. It's still pretty bad. Should I swap back to my old plugs, and see if they don't have such large problems Ele?
(Edit) Yeah, holy ----. It solved a ton of problems I've been having with various bits and pieces, but it didn't solve the misfiring problem.
Last edited by blaen99; 04-24-2012 at 10:19 PM.