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Old 05-18-2007, 12:46 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayc72 View Post
How does the MS deal with injector lag time (offset on the link)? To get my RX7 injectors to work properly and the car to idle with out dumping in a pile of extra fuel I had to adjust the injector offset. Until I screwed with the offset I had to increase my master fuel about 20-25% to get an idle around 14.7:1. Now I'm back to about 95% master fuel and idles very well.

Could this be what Scott is seeing?

Also 36-40 what? KPA?

yeah kPa or about 20~hg. of vac
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Old 05-18-2007, 12:49 PM   #102
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I'm seeing about 30KPA at 2700ft above sealevel. You sure you don't have a vacuum leak?

Last edited by jayc72; 05-18-2007 at 12:55 PM. Reason: edited for bad math :)
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Old 05-18-2007, 01:01 PM   #103
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I'm pretty constant 32kpa
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Old 05-18-2007, 01:03 PM   #104
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whoops, it's more like 34-32...i looked at a log with a hunting idle...
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Old 05-18-2007, 03:31 PM   #105
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i run 1.6-1.8 DC at idle with my 460's Ben great work man you so make me wish i had my car done. Awsome stuff MS is frigin awsome makes me wanna try to fiddle with my spark somemore.
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Old 05-18-2007, 06:54 PM   #106
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Originally Posted by Ben View Post
those numbers are in milliseconds. it takes .1 ms for open time and .1 ms for close time. so a 1.6ms pw means only 1.4 ms of squirt time.
Actually we've got it set a 1ms for injector opening time... that leaves .6ms for pulsewidth at idle. Changing VE just a little makes a big difference in VE with large injectors on a 4cyl with the standard code. It sometimes settled in at 13.2-3, sometimes in the mid-upper 12's. I may play with the hi-res code at some point since most of you guys use hi impedance injectors anyways and that's the only feature you lose with the high res code, but you gain better resolution which will give you finer PW control everywhere, but it will help the most at idle.

The other option is to change from 2 squirts alternating over to 1 squirt simultaneous. That would increase the idle PW and give more room for fine adjustment of the idle AFR with the current resolution.
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Old 05-18-2007, 10:10 PM   #107
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Jerry, thank you for the clarifications. Awesome to know that IJDC is so low.

The car is a beast. It's very drivable, power is delivered in a linear manner, until 5500 rpm then it you better shift quick! But boost comes on in a fashion that it doesn't scare you or suddenly try to turn the car around. First gear is quick and useless. Second gear hooks until spooled, then lights em up. Third gear is fun, but still short. I had a good time today watching the black stripes follow me in the rear view.

Still needs a little economy tuning here n there. It has some 11:1-12:1 spots in light load conditions and some 13:1 spots on the highway I'd like to lean out. I just need someone to drive the car for me while I use the laptop.

I know I told you that I was going to turn boost down for daily driving, but uhm no, that's not happening. It's perfect as it is.
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Old 05-19-2007, 01:33 PM   #108
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If you've got a few minutes minutes next week bring it by and we'll get the highway cruise right and those couple of rich spots...

As for the boost-- I kindof figured you'd end up leaving it, it's just too much fun
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Old 05-19-2007, 02:12 PM   #109
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Thanks Jerry!
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Old 05-19-2007, 02:27 PM   #110
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I got a few PMs asking how well the car dives with the MS. I thought this thread was pretty explicit in that regard. This post is in response to the PMs. Don't be afraid to post publicly; odds are someone else may benefit from seeing your question answered.

To hit the popular questions:
The car drives great. It's fast, peppy, responsive, strong, and compotent. No, it wasn't that way right out of the box; nothing is that easy, ever. No standalone or piggy is 100% out of the box, not even an FMU or BIPES. The base map preloaded on my MSPNP was for an NA car, tweaked up a bit to make a turbo car run with an empahsis on not blowing up the motor. Basically many load zones in the tables were filled with WAGs. Getting from the guessed numbers in the base map to a tweaked out dyno tuned map wasn't hard, but it did take a day at the dyno to make it happen.

But hey, good news is, you guys have a turbo base map now. So hopefully you'd have less tuning to do than I did.

I got the impression on some of the PMs that people were looking to just plug the MS in and go. Don't expect it to be that easy. I think you should expect the car to start up and drive, but don't expect it to be dialed in. If you can get someone to help you road tune the vac cells over an hour, maybe 2 hours, you could have the boost cells tuned on a dyno in 1-2 hours. Any good tuner should understand the software GUI, it's really a simple interface.
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Old 05-20-2007, 10:44 AM   #111
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how is everyone wiring in knocksense with the Mspnp?
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Old 05-20-2007, 10:54 AM   #112
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Rtfm
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Old 05-20-2007, 11:16 AM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post

I got the impression on some of the PMs that people were looking to just plug the MS in and go.
Anyone who expects that of a fully configurable ECU need their head looking at

Even FM with the LINK ECU will need fine tuning
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Old 05-20-2007, 11:25 AM   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richyvrlimited View Post
Even FM with the LINK ECU will need fine tuning
Tuning the MSPNP is equally labor intensive to tuning the FM Link.
Installing the MSPNP is easier than installing the FM Link.

But yeah, expecting 100% out of the box isn't sane.
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Old 05-20-2007, 08:06 PM   #115
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Apparently the next version will install itself when you put it near your Miata, like on The Mask.
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Old 05-20-2007, 08:10 PM   #116
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Originally Posted by saboteur View Post
Apparently the next version will install itself when you put it near your Miata, like on The Mask.
I want one of those.
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Old 05-21-2007, 12:35 AM   #117
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how much did you all pay total for ur MSpnp? i see at DIYauto its 700$ but im curious too see what differneces there are. BTW WTF is the deal with the damn post limit rules
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Old 05-21-2007, 12:56 AM   #118
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$700 for MSPNP (diyautotune)
$30 for open element AIT w bung (diyautotune)
$60 for MAPDADDY *optional (diyautotune)
$37 for GM boost solenoid and harness (from local chevy dealer) *optional
$98 for knocksensems (forget the website, it's in this thread somewhere) *optional

I also had to pay sales tax because I'm local
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