I have been charging the battery with the truck for about an hour, and it shows 13+V with the jumpers attached, but cranking speed still at 160. Changed speed back up to 300 in 'cranking settings.' Also increased cranking pulse to the pic below.

Will try using the battery from the '94.

Attached the log, relevant portion below. Appears to lean out the longer I crank.

 

The spark settings were wrong. Scott had me change to Normal rather than Inverted. Everything else looking good?

Waiting to crank.

 

What the crap?

Tried cranking, same result. Used the battery from the 94 while hooked up to the running truck. Cranking RPMs still around 160.

 

Picture of a kitty and his kill to make thread legitimate.

 

I got it figured out, and boy is brainey sneaky! He is hoping I get frustrated and part-out, so he can get his paws on the illustrious VF Engineering Supercharger.

Dude, I already told you: You have first dibs.

Once I get running, it will come off, turboz will replace, and you can have it.

Faster you get me running, the faster you get teh real boostz.

 

Scott has a couple ideas. That he did not change spark output to Joe's improved, and that I need to match the settings of the MS1. Below is a screenshot of good ole MS1 in all its fully functional and working glory.

Switched to Normal. How about 'ignition input capture'? Leave alone? Screen shot on post #62.

Other idea is to load up a official release firmware to test the composite logger and make sure the inputs are in fact okay.

Any further thoughts from brain or others?

 

I do not know if any of this makes a difference or not, but I figure it is worth mentioning:

- there is a wire dedicated to VICS coming out of the harness that I do not have hooked up to anything

- while attempting to start I let the AIT sensor sit out of the intake, capturing the temperature of the open air

 

Bumpity bump!


Sent ms back to brain and he discovered the ignition inputs crossed.

Still cranks low at 150rpm while jumped to a good running truck battery.

Brainy suggests going back to stock ECU, and testing for fuel and spark, so that's what I will do over the next couple weekends.

BUT, I did cut the wires to the post cat O2 sensor and removed it. Must I wire it back in when testing?


Need some help with procedures to test for fuel and spark. When testing spark, how do I disable the fuel system?

• Do I put lay a plug on the valve cover?
• Use an inline light (have one)?
• Use a timing light? (have also)

Testing fuel: what can I do other than hearing the fuel pump turn on?
(WB was showing fuel while cranking. If I put post-cat O2 back in I lose WB)


Assuming I do not have spark at the plugs, do I just start working backwards and check the coilpack? What do I check after that if coilpack is ok?

Found this diagram in a thread:


Will also edit to add last cranking log and msq.

 

Stock computer back in. No spark.

Pulled the coilpack. Huge pain in the ***. Testing it soon.

 

Please look at the photos and tell me if I have this contraption set correctly (doubtful).


Here is the test I am doing:


Here are my results:
Left coil:

1. Nothing
2. Nothing
3. .1197
4. 10.294

Right coil:

1. .4699
2. .1182
3. .1187
4. 9.93

Tests 3 and 4 on the left:










Tests 1, 2, 3, 4 on right coil:

 

Does the car start now ? I do have the same or similar problem...

 

I was not using the multimeter correctly, see this thread: https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/multimeter-testing-coilpack-66035/


Appears my coils are done. I am hoping to pick up a working set today and test again this weekend.

 

My car started this morning, coils are okay, thanks for your procedure.

My AFR is near 20 tho... don't know if I should check timing or look for better AFR first.

 

 

Starting to pull myself out of fail.

My coils were blown. Got a new set in, and it started on the second crank!

Back to square one. Running car with wideband installed. A Brain re-re-rebuilt MS2 and rx7 460's ready to install on Monday. I am happy.

 

Thanks for this nugget. My CLT is stuck at 180F. I've verified all the other sensors appear to be working and pass logical checks. My CLT is the only sensor that isn't working. I'll go hunting for engine grounds. It's also possible I made a mistake when I extended the two wires to reach the new sensor location thanks to my M-Tuned coolant reroute. But that's such a simple thing I doubt it.

 

I'd recommend starting a new thread and specifying what MS variant you are using.

 

No need. Problem resolved.