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lc-1 output ID and funky/weird 15.0 static # in the gauge

Old Jan 24, 2009 | 07:58 PM
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Default lc-1 output ID and funky/weird 15.0 static # in the gauge

how can I ID which output is going to the gauge without looking at the wires (tough to get access and neatly taped up). I tried changing the voltages but the display remained constant on the gauge.

After I drive the car for a while, the gauge and MS both read 15.0:1 until I cut and re-establish power. It does this **** all the time. I am not getting an error code on the little light. I've reset and done several free-air calibrations and this problem will not go away. My sensor is mounted on the top of the pipe, at the back of the cat.

I searched.
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 07:59 PM
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How'd you wire up the LC-1?
Old Jan 24, 2009 | 08:09 PM
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
How'd you wire up the LC-1?
can't remember where I put the yellow #1 and brown #2 wires. The grouns are all on the intake plenum, on different lugs.
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 12:44 AM
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Where did you get +12V switched power from? Does the LC-1 stay powered while you're starting, or does it go off when in the start position? Where's the LC-1 mounted? Was it new when you bought it?

Naarleven's pic = win.
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 01:14 AM
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power is from a piggy-back fuse block thingy on the dash light fuse...I'm pretty sure it stays on but the gauge is powered from another circuit which is not. The controller is under the shift ****. I bought it new.
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 01:41 AM
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I think all the grounds go to the same place...... if I remember the instructions, and I know its very picky about how you wire it... but FWIW my gauge is wired to the brown output and It reads fine
Old Jan 25, 2009 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by turbobluemiata
I think all the grounds go to the same place...... if I remember the instructions, and I know its very picky about how you wire it... but FWIW my gauge is wired to the brown output and It reads fine
you can either send all gnd's to the same piece of metal on different lugs, or solder them together...no stacking lugs.

I guess I have to start cutting heat-shrink.
Old Jan 26, 2009 | 10:59 AM
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Mine does the same **** except it actually blinks the code. Upon warmup it works fine, as soon as I drive down the block it dies.

Come spring im throwing the sensor in the garbage or just buying an AEM.

You sure you got your light setup right? Like when you press the free air button it goes out?
Old Jan 26, 2009 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Saml01
Mine does the same **** except it actually blinks the code. Upon warmup it works fine, as soon as I drive down the block it dies.

Come spring im throwing the sensor in the garbage or just buying an AEM.

You sure you got your light setup right? Like when you press the free air button it goes out?
correct. Maybe the sensor is bad, dunno. However I tuned it with both outputs on the ms voltage range, so I know its tuned and now I just ignore the gauge.
Old Jan 26, 2009 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by hustler
correct. Maybe the sensor is bad, dunno. However I tuned it with both outputs on the ms voltage range, so I know its tuned and now I just ignore the gauge.
While I do the same thing, its not ideal. The gauge is a cheap insurance policy.

If it wasnt so damn cold, id change the sensor tomorrow.
Old Jan 26, 2009 | 02:01 PM
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why do you tape everything up? that makes messing with stuff hard. my harness looks like this for easy access:
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