I finally decided to get a MS, and just want to make sure I'm getting all the extra parts I need for my setup. It's a '90 1.6L with Greddy turbo. I plan on completely replacing the PCM. I have A/C (or at least will if I can ever find the wiring harness for the new compressor) and plan to do EBC. Stock injectors and no variable TPS for now. I also have a PLX WBo2.

Here is what I THINK I need:

5x 1.0KQBK-ND (1k ohm .25W resistor) CAS
5x 620QBK-ND (620 ohm .25W resistor) Replace R19
1x ZTX688B-ND (NPN transistor) Replace Q4
1x 237F-ND (DB-37 female connector)

EBC:
1x IRLZ44ZPBF-ND (mosfet)
5x 100QBK-ND (100 ohm resistor)
5x 10KQBK-ND (10k ohm resistor)

I have wire/solder/heat shrink, is there anything I'm missing for my setup? Does the PLX need a resistor inline like some of the LC-1s?

 

Hi

You say you dont want a TPS but if you change your mind I recommend the TPS from older BMW 7-series autos, I have one labelled Bosch 0 280 120 406 and it fits perfectly on 1.6 throttle house.

Good luck

Håkan

 

I do plan on getting one, just not yet. Thanks for the info, I'll check it out when I'm ready to get one. Right now I just want to get better gas milage and better power curve.

 

Buy your parts from DIYautotune. Tell them what you want to do. They sell mod-kits with the appropriate components to do the mods you want. EBC, Spark and whatever else you might want including a 4bar MAP sensor. The rest of the things you might need you can get locally at a radioshack.

FWIW, i buy my heatshrink tubing from Lowes, they sell 5 packs of 1/8" tubing for less than $2. I also buy my bullet connectors there because they sell a 20 pack for less than $2 too. Radioshit rips you off for things like that. You can buy sockets and diodes there though, the usually have what i need.

 

Their DB-37 connector is too expensive and they use the TIPS120 transistor. The one I'm getting is supposed to be a cleaner install. I'd rather just get the stuff I need from digikey. I already can get heatshrink from work, so that's not a big deal. Not a bad price for it at Lowes though. I'll have to keep that in mind if I run out. Is it good quality stuff that doesn't tear easily if it tightens too much?

 

I haven't seen any of the tubing tear, works for me. Acutally i've never seen any tear.

Their MS kits come with a DB-37 connector so I don't see how it can be too expensive. The tip120 transistor requires you to solder 3 wires to an existing location on the board and you bolt the TIP to a spot on the heatsink that you leave open from the VR circuit or MSII.

You can see the TIP install here.

 

Where can I get the boomslang connector for the harness? I can't seem to find just the connector anywhere. I want to make it plug n play. I went to boomslang and could only find a $100 cable, which is ridiculously overpriced.

 

Do a search or contact Braineack, he builds PNP MS harnesses for the 1.6.
The connector itself is $20 plus shipping from Boomslang. Otherwise there is a website like webconnectors.com or something you can get them from cheaper. Try a search on the forum for pnp harness it should show up after a few tries.

 

I bought the kit from diyautotune, so there's a female DB-37 in the box? If that's the case, then I can scratch that off the list. I just thought they gave you a DB-37 male that attaches to the board.

 

Thanx

 

The ZTX688B is a very clean install-- it drops right in where Q4 used to be. And it won't even burn out as long as you don't use it!

Really though, it's a decent solution, but it's not heat-sinked, and it gets VERY hot and it will burn out if you drive the idle valve hard. The TIP120 is a much better solution even though it's a bit more hassle to install.

 

Yes they give you a DB-37 connector to make your harness with it's part of the MS kit. I also recommend getting a GM IAT open element sensor, IAC mod kit, pullup resistor kit, EBC kit, and the 18" wire bundle because they are labeled nicely and it comes with a shielded ignition wire.

 

For $48, I think I'll pass on the cable, but I added everything else to my cart. I didn't see anything bad about that other transistor before, so I guess I'll stick to the TIP120.

 

The bundle i spoke of what $12, for 2' of color/label coded wire. It allows you to assemble the DB-37 without flags taped on. It's a convenience thing, not needed though of course.
When assembling your DB-37 don't skip on ground wires, use atleast 4, each to it's own seperate pins. 6 would be better.

 

Oh, I missed that one. That's not a bad deal to have everything color coded. and labeled. I can do $12. Thanks for the inputs.

 

OK, I have everything wired up for the most part and I have a few questions/concerns before I hook it up for the first time.

What ignition should I be using the shielded wire for? CKP or CMP? Or something entirely different?

Since I'm replacing my Miata PCM, what do I do with the fuel pump wire to make it as close to stock as possible and what's the best solution for the fan (and what extra crap do I need for it)? Is there anything else I'm going to need to do to completely remove the PCM? I have no A/C atm, so when I get that working is when I plan on getting the TPS.

I have the EBC mod installed, but don't have the solenoid yet. I want to get it working without boost first and then fix it for boost if nothing blows up. I also got the IAT sensor, but where's the best place to put it? Do I have to drill a hole in my intake for it?

Also, I need to unplug the coil pack before starting it for the first time, correct? Only after I set the ignition settings it's safe.

Any other worries I'm missing? I think I've covered everything, but I want to be completely sure.

 

yeah, drill/tap the pipes for the Ait or weld in a bung...best is on the coldside in an area that doesnt heat soak.

only to to unplug ignitor and coils if you're flashing firmware.

 

You use both CKP and CMP.

 

Yes, I know, but the kit only provides 1 shielded ignition cable. Which one is more important to shield?

 

They're both equally important. Cut it in half.