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Old 02-25-2010, 12:52 PM   #1
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I know you guys don't like noobs, but honestly I'm trying to do the best I can.

I have a stock naturally aspirated 1994 Miata and am planning to run standalone. So far I have built a MS1 with the Miata mods, Joe's spark invert mod, and PWM idle control. I still need to install the fan circuit. I am using a standard stim for testing, and have not yet installed to the car. I also just got an LC-1 and a GM AIT sensor yesterday. I am still waiting for the 64pin harness connector (which was megaexpensive btw) and an eee pc (gotten for $100, as recommended by users here).

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I downloaded the diypnp software from diyautotune, have successfully flashed the latest MSextra firmware, and everything seems to work in megatune. I didn't do anything regarding easytherm since I didn't know wth to do. I have also loaded the base map the download came with. Great.

1) My fan output 4 at the bottom in Megatune is going haywire, directly proportional to RPMs. Also in the megamanual, it mentions that the LED closest to the DB9 should be flashing according to the injector pulses. My middle LED is the one flashing. I have "Spark Invert" set to "Yes." Is this related to using Joe's spark mod, and is it a problem?

2) I need to source 12v switched power for the LC-1 and a volt meter gauge. Where are you guys getting this? Can I tap off of the 12v in the ecu harness? Do I need fuses?

3) On the idle valve in the engine bay, I only noticed two wires connected to it, but there are four striped wires needed when building the harness. How come?

4) I want to make sure I am doing things properly. So far I am only 1/4 done reading the tuning manual lol. Does this look okay?

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Thank you for your patience. I have learned so much in the past week, and it is all very overwhelming, so I just want to make sure I'm not megascrewing something up.
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Old 02-25-2010, 12:59 PM   #2
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#1 see #4

#2 I've been using the 12v source for the MS for my LC-1 for 4 years and counting.

#3 the four wires are for a stepper valve(we don't use a stepper valve), you don't need to worry about them, the spots they would have gone give you extra room for input/outputs.

like:

#4 start with the MSPNP basemap; that will probably take care of your #1 issue.

fan: swap the LED18 transistor with the one that would have gone to Q4. Then just run a wire from the flatside of the LED to your harness for the fan. change warmup to output 1, set output 1 for FAN.
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Old 02-26-2010, 04:28 AM   #3
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1) Alright, I completely redid the software setup word for word as described on the mt wiki page, including easytherm. I used the rx7 settings for the thermistor and the GM settings for the AIT. When finished I then loaded the mspnp 94/95 msq (with GM AIT) I downloaded from diyautotune. It fixed the output 4 problem (thanks!), but now I have no tach signal. On the stim, I1, I2, and the pump are not lighting up at all. Ignition is lit, and Idle lights up if I move the RPM potentiometer greater than zero. How do I get my tach signal back?

I installed the fan relay circuit the original way, because I could not desolder the Q4 transistor. Turned the output on, adjusted, and it works great.

2) I also got my 64pin connector today, so I am now working on the harness. I finished the ecu side, now I have to do the car side. I guess the first thing to do is the grounds. I suppose it would help to look at the car, but it's dark right now, so all I have is this diagram. On the car side it shows 2 grounds. Do I need to wire these to the body, along with the six grounds from the ecu?

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3) I am going to have some questions on hooking up the fans with air conditioning... but let me do some more reading first. Essentially, I just have to connect IAC2A from the board to the condenser fan wire, bridge that to the cooling fan wire, diode that to the air conditioning magnetic clutch wire (what diode do I use?), and use a Single Throw Single Pole relay driven by another relay control on MS to connect to the heater control wire, right?

I have many more questions on wiring, but I think that's good enough for now. I'll do some more searching.
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Old 02-26-2010, 11:16 AM   #4
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#1 not sure...

#2 you shouldn't have to run any extra grounds. Use should just need four 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D. C D are sensor grounds, A B are body grounds.


#3

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Old 02-26-2010, 12:05 PM   #5
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Just a thought. #1. Do you have "stim for wheel" enabled?. If not, turn it on in megatune and that should bring back your tach signals. The standard stim cant simulate our CAS so when you flash the new firmware, it goes dark.
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Old 02-26-2010, 12:25 PM   #6
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I've, only twice after I modded it, got the standard stim to show RPMs. Suffice to say I have a JimStim now.
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Old 02-26-2010, 12:44 PM   #7
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Haha... oops, I totally missed that. RPM works fine now. And that diagram makes a WHOLE lot more sense than what I was looking at.

Thanks guys!.. hopefully I should have it installed in the car and running tonight.
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Old 02-26-2010, 12:47 PM   #8
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Good luck, keep us posted.
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Old 03-01-2010, 11:21 AM   #9
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Okay, I am stuck and really need help. This probably isn't the right place to ask, but I'll ask anyway.

I am having soooo much trouble trying to get my 701 eee pc to communicate with the MS via the usb-db9 cable. It's the only thing I have left to do. I have a Gigaware cable I got from Radioshack, but it only has Windows drivers. I'm trying to compile the generic drivers to connect. So far I'm in a love/hate relationship with the linux command line. I have already had to F9 reset the OS two times when getting too sudo happy. Right now, I have installed the extra repositories needed for minicom and cutecom for the pc by sudo rewriting the code via the wiki. When I type 'lsusb' in terminal with the MS plugged in, the computer recognizes the there is a cable attached on bus 4. When I type 'dmesg' it's communicating. So far so good. I then opened synaptic and installed the minicom package. Cutecom had errors when opening. I'm not exactly sure if I'm doing this right in minicom, but what I do is press 'minicom -o' at the terminal, then ctrl-a-z, then ctrl o. It then asks some options, one of which is to edit the serial port settings. When I go there, I changed /dev/ttyU1 to /dev/ttyUSB0 - the port which the cable is on. I then changed the Bps from 115200 to 9600. When I try opening TunerStudio, it still gets stuck at the 'initializing serial drivers' page, so I probably did something wrong. It would help if I knew how to correctly use minicom. This is my first time using a command line interface, let alone a different operating system.

DOES ANYBODY HERE USING LINUX KNOW HOW TO CONNECT THEIR MEGASQUIRT VIA USB-SERIAL ADAPTER???? ARRRGGHHHH!!!!!!

I would switch over to windows, but I do like the simplicity of the xandros os and the 8 second cold boot time. I also don't want to have to buy an external cd drive.

Thank you
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Old 03-01-2010, 09:46 PM   #10
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ideas anyone? I need this FINISHED
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Old 03-01-2010, 10:31 PM   #11
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email diyautotune.com
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Old 03-01-2010, 10:37 PM   #12
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No need to get rid of linux just run a dual boot of linux and windows. As somebody that works with linux and those usb to serial cables unless you really know what you are doing you will spend more time fixing this then anything else. Just go windows for this
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Old 03-09-2010, 08:10 PM   #13
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Hey, here I am again. I have been doing a lot of school and work, so this project has been put on the back burner so to speak. After spending oodles of time compiling, editing, searching, and trying to do everything to hook MS to the eeepc, I finally decided to buy a usb-serial connector compatible with macs. Boom. Works. **** me.

On the harness, I have the white (inner) part of the thick grey CAS wire connected to 2E on the yellow connector, but where do I put the shield wire? I have the shield connected to pin 2 on the Megasquirt connector side.

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Also, I wasn't sure which of the 6 ground wires to use to solder to the yellow connector, so I randomly chose 4 of them.

And yes, don't worry I'll be taping that harness up lol.

After spending some time at Advance Auto, Autozone, and NAPA, I have come to the conclusion that nobody sells 2.5" intake pipe. They only sell 3". I tried that, and there is no way it will fit under the hood. I even went to Home Depot and Lowes, and people there both basically told me, "uhhh no we don't have that, just go to an auto store, idiot". So right now I am looking at this... Does this look okay to use? I just need something to install my GM AIT on.

1999-2005 MAZDA MIATA MX5 AIR INTAKE+FILTER 99 00 01-05 : eBay Motors (item 360220140476 end time Mar-22-10 14:20:31 PDT)
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Old 03-09-2010, 10:30 PM   #14
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When I was running NA I simply drilled a hole in my stock intake tube and screwed in then GM AIT.
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Old 03-10-2010, 01:31 PM   #15
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You can just use exhaust pipe. Before cheap aluminum tubing got imported from China and sold all over eBay, a lot of guys would plumb up intercoolers with a combination of exhaust pipe and radiator hose.
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Old 03-10-2010, 02:18 PM   #16
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My intake pipe is made out of 2.5" aluminized exhaust pipe with mandrel bends it looks good once you paint it and it is strong as an ox no dents for this pipe.
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Old 03-12-2010, 06:17 AM   #17
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OMG HALLLLLP!!!!! will not start!!

Okay, I got the AIT sensor installed, the LC-1 installed and calibrated properly, and the map hose and MS installed. When the key is set to start, the fuel pump relay clicks on then off, so that should be working. When cranking, I get rpm signal in tunerstudio. TPS is calibrated, and the coolant/AIT are pretty accurate. It is 50 degrees right now. I am using a base 94 mspnp msq, with a few settings that i changed. How can I get this to start? It sounds like there is an attempt to fire when cranking. It stumbles around a tad, but it is not just dead cranking. What am I doing wrong??

I am doing a ton of reading right now on all the wont start, ASE, and WUE threads here.

Looks like joe suggests switching spark plugs around. I'll give that a shot.

sorry for incomprehension it's kiind of late. or early


hellp!!
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Old 03-12-2010, 11:57 AM   #18
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Pull a spark plug after a failed start - is it wet with fuel, or dry?
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Old 03-12-2010, 12:37 PM   #19
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plugs are wet and smell like fuel.

When cranking i don't have any spark advance... is this a problem? It stays at around 19 degrees. I thought I was supposed to adjust timing after the car starts
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Old 03-12-2010, 12:40 PM   #20
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Okay I changed the trigger angle from 65 to 60 and it idled without the starter at about 600 rpms, but died after 3 seconds. I think this is a spark/timing issue

edit: just changed to 56 and started right away, idles at 1300, but it might be missing. im going to adjust timing now
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