Cococarbine3

iTrader: (1)

When looking at the timing, the pulley timing marks go back and forth a little bit wildly making it hard to set timing. I believe the engine is misfiring causing this. It also is pretty rough for ~900 rpm. My air/fuel ratio is realllllly rich at 10.3. I am going to see if i can get new spark plugs to put in, although they already are pretty new.

Also my fan doesn't turn on, even though the JS0 fan control output works on tunerstudio.. Like it turns on on the computer, but the fan doesn't turn on.
more problems *sigh*

off to read the manual again. I'll be at work, so I wont see this until 8 central.

this is a startup a little bit warm at 160 degreesF ---v

Cococarbine3

iTrader: (1)

Okay, my fans won't work, my outputs are going crazy, my tune is ***, but I am happier than can be. After I finished watching district-9 (which was really weird by the way), I went to work on the car. When I started it, it idled fine no problems or missfire. I think the previous missfires were due to soaked plugs or something. For some reason my spark advance says 16 even though I have it adjusted to 10 degrees at the pulley, and my afr will not move from 10. when messing with the ve table and req fuel

However, I am just glad to be able drive it now. I still need to figure out why my fans wont turn on. They both turned on when i switched the airconditioning on, but wont turn on at the set temperatures. Right now I have the testfan jumpered at the diagnostics box until i can figure out what's wrong.

I want to thank you all who helped me out through this, and a special thanks to brain and whoever else contributed to the awesome threads here and at the miata turbo wiki. Granted I have a long way still to go as I don't have a clue how to tune, but at least I am able to somewhat drive the car now. Every time I look at the manual, the more I realize I don't know jack.

I'll post a video later of what's going on with my setup.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

spark advance is based off you spark map...which is probably around 16* at you idle cells.

afr sounds like it's not getting a signal.

Cococarbine3

iTrader: (1)

ARRGH I've spent ALL night trying to get my LC-1 to give proper AFRs!!!! I cannot figure out what I'm doing wrong!! I've followed directions word for word. I have free air calibrated the sensor twice. Both the remote gauge and the tunerstudio gauge are giving me nonsense. The remote gauge gives me numbers in the 60s at idle and goes down to like the 20s when revving. In tunerstudio, the afrs are stay at a solid 10.6 no matter the rpms but will occasionally jump to 7 something.

I swear to god I have the lc1 outputs configured properly per the manual. The MS output 1 values slip me at the moment, but I set them to the values in the quick start manual. The second remote gauge output is set to 1v = 10.1afr and 2v = 20.1afr.

I tried logging afrs directly from the LC-1 with the cables in the Logworks software. At idle I was getting high 10s to low 11s. Doing a few revs smoothly brought me up to around 13 afr and back down after throttle release. WTF????

Also when under full acceleration sometimes the engine would start running on 2 cylinders, I'm guessing due to too much fuel causing missfire. When I pulled the lc-1 sensor, the side facing the engine was black with soot. I have not touched the sensor with bare fingers whatsoever since I got it because I heard that doing so would cause bad things.

Whats going onnnnnnn??!?!?!

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Try setting one of your analog outputs to a fixed voltage (like 2.5 volts) and measuring the output with a multimeter.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

cut the black calibration ground to the lc-1 controller.

Cococarbine3

iTrader: (1)

Lol this is embarrassing. I had the ecu output set to simulate a narrowband signal. I changed it to 0v=.5lambda and 5v=1.5lambda. As for the gauge, I did not realize I had to ground the source signal as well. Now the remote gauge, tunerstudio, and the lm programmer are getting the same afrs. I think the remote gauge is almost 1 value under, though... ie 14.7=13.7 on it, although it is hard to tell because it fluctuates a lot.

I know there's a bajillion threads on target afrs, but just to be clear, on a naturally aspirated system, I should basically be around 15 at idle, ~13.5 under full throttle, and 15 at cruise, right?

Brain, so I only need the calibration wire w/switch/led grounded only when I need to calibrate? I just removed everything now.

This autotune ve analyzer live thing is AWESOME!!! Actually this whole LC-1 thing is pretty cool. I'm off to go take a drive to try this stuff out now. Thanks guyyyz!

Cococarbine3

iTrader: (1)

HELLLPP!!! This morning I started up the car, and I was greeted with a TON of smoke out of the tailpipe, as well as a foul smell of lots of gasoline. It was bluish and whitish. My hand formed condensation when put next to it. I ran it for about a minute and then turned it off. When restarting, the car is only running on what I'm guessing is 2 cylinders.

Last night when I was cleaning up the harness install, on the 64 pin connector, the +12v got shorted on the pin below it (while connected into the car harness). I had to replace the interior fuse, and when I started it ran rough for a little bit, but then got back to 4 cylinders, and I didn't think much of it.

What are the odds of an engine loosing compression overnight? Car was running great just yesterday. I know when I had the head machined due to the engine overheating, the technician said my rings were probably shot. The car has been running great for the past 7 months though. I will borrow a compression tester today.

I guess all I can do is reinstall the old ECU and O2 sensor to see if something went wrong with MS.


halp!

Ben

iTrader: (33)

Blue is oil
White is water

What you probably did was load a plug or two up with fuel from your short run time, and now the plug(s) is/are too dirty to consistently fire. Inspect/clean/replace plugs as necessary and try again.

If you have a stim, pull your ECU, and verify operation as well.

Cococarbine3

iTrader: (1)

Something is wrong. Very wrong. Very, very, very, VERY wrong. It sounds like something is seized. As in, the starter sounds and feels like it's getting resistance, and it stumbles when cranking.

I replaced all 4 plugs with BOSCH 4301 platinums w/ the 2 electrodes. Plug #1 was fouled with fuel/oil a great deal (dripping, after sitting for 3 hours), and the other 3 were fine and golden.

I checked MS with the stim, everything works perfectly.

ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRGHH!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Just watching it makes my heart sink to the floor.

A/F ratio is abnormally low for sitting for several hours

Cococarbine3

iTrader: (1)

Okay, I gave it a shot again after letting it sit for a bit. Started right up no problems, 4 cylinders running. A/F ratios fine for warmup. Immediately after a TREMENDOUS amount of blue/white foul smelling smoke came out. I wish I got a video, it filled the entire neighborhood with smoke in a couple minutes. Like a massive burnout. I can still see it out the window just lingering as I type this. It was embarrassing because it's a nice day out, and everybody is outside and staring and pointing at me probably thinking "damn, that guy's not going anywhere soon".

Looks like a headgasket job for me to do, AGAIN... I can't imagine what else it would be. I just don't understand how all this could happen to a perfectly running car in like 2 days.

Is anybody selling a BP engine for cheap and willing to help swap? This is my DD and need this done FAST