ok, so ive been jugging between exams and the aseembling, so its taken me about 3 days to get to the point where im ready to install the miata specific modifications needed to the board.

I have yet to install the PWM idle control mod, but i also need to install the boost mod afterwards as well after i do the miata specific mods. I have pretty much soldered up everything, setting up it to Hall/optical.

but before that happens, ive been reading the board to see what else needs to be done. questions have come up also during the build.

So we need to cut off the blue R7 resistor because the temperatures wont read right when wired up to car's stock CLT? does this apply for NB's too or only NA's?

The remaining open "sockets" are the C12, C30, Q4 (for the PWM mod), Q20, R57 (what is this for anyway?), R43, Q16, and D8. I jumpered R39, D1, D2, and on the backside i jumpered TSEL to OPTOOUT, TACHSELECT to OPTOIN, and XG2 to XG1.

am i missing something? did i install something i wasnt supposed to for the miata modifications? thanks guys for the help.

i will have pictures up soon.

EDIT: I got around to finishing the mods for the MS, as well as installing the PWM, but ill install the boost stuff later. i also desoldered the R7 as well. its finally coming together!! anyway, here are the pictures






Look ma! no flux!

 

It's late so i'm not going to answer them all right now, but you do still need to remove the R7 to allow it to read your CLT sensor correctly. You can just desolder it, you don't have to cut it unless you would like that more.

 

ok, ill go ahead and desolder it

 

i just realized that i installed one of the miata specific mods wrong on the back, the wire goes to the boot hole instead of teh 5V+ spot, where its supposed to go, but i corrected that last night.

i hope theres no more errors, im going to try to get this up and running soon.

 

depending on how your db37 harness is built it may not fire.

 

could you elaborate? am i doing something wrong?

 

no. but i believe the db37 could have coils a and b reversed.

 

My coil outputs were backwards. Just switch them when plugging it in.

 

R7 for the coolant temp only needs to be removed if you are leaving the stock ECU in place. If you are running full stand alone you must leave the MS bias resistor in place.

 

i am running in parallel because the MS cant control the alternator and other things yet i believe, so i guess thats a needed to remove it.

ill search around for the coolant temp settings for easytherm, i know i saw it around here somewhere.

ill go ahead and switch them. thanks for the input guys, i appreciate it.

 

He has a '99, he is going to run parallel with the stock ecu in place, atleast i hope he plans to.
I'm currently using these values for my stock '99 coolant sensor with accurate readings.

1544 ohm Bias resistance.
Deg-C Resistance
0 6000
40 1100
80 320

Shows around 202* when the fans kick on.

 

I figured he might be but it wasn't stated and I wanted to make sure someone else who IS running standalone didn't see this and fry their CPU.

 

I'm just curious because i don't see how it would happen but will that really fry the CPU? I figure it would just make the CLT sensor incredibly inaccurate.

Kinda funny that my post came up after his, weird how that worked out.

 

^^ lol, im quick

my car has been down way too long (3 months) just because of ECU problems, so im eager to get this rollin

 

Jesus and I thought i was bad. Get that **** rolling.