Got a bit of time yesterday noted where all pins were on ms3x and what's used/not used on OEM harness. Also rewired the fans so the Ms3x can control them both seperately.

Cooling fan is on nitrous 1/pin 24 upper db37
​​​​​​A/C fan is on Inj.G/pin 1 upper db37
Alternator charge is on Spr4/pin 6 lower db37

But in I/O settings nitrous 1 is my alternator and I don't see a Spr4 in the options, where can I move this so I can get these to control it? And should I move the cooling fan off nitrous 1 pin and put it where?

Tested A/C fan and it works like it should.

 

~Moved my cooling fan to pin 34, Spark D.
~Removed vvt wire completely to avoid confusion.
~Moved 3m Alternator charge to pin 24, nitrous 1
~Waste gate solenoid was capped off, connected it to from 4D to pin 6, boost.
​~Jumpered grounds on ms3 pins 2,3,8,12,17 upper db37.
​​​​​~Jumpered grounds on ms3 pins 1&2 on lower db37.
​~Cap and stowe​​​​​d pin 15 Spark C, 28 Table switch, and IAC1A for later use.
​​​​​​~Need to double check Knock sensor 4M going to pin 3 on the lower db37. Just to make sure it goes there.

Then back to tesing I/O

I read on the alternator about adding a resistor like 470ohm, in line with the alternator. Anyone know if I still need to do that or dose the .14+ update eliminate it?

 

Alternator needs a pull up to 5V, not in-line. Read through the thread that's called like "Alternator control MS3 dead nailed". The information needed for wiring is on the last few pages.

 

Yup read that one 2days ago, I'll go back to it just to see again, just to be sure.

 

Just got the box apart and unplugged the small ribbon connector and folded the expansion card off to the side. Verifying the location for the 470ohm resistor to go in I noticed VCC H5 has nothing going to it. The pic Chiburbian posted in alternator dead nailed post 88 had solder on his board. Looks like H1 pk7, H5 vcc, H6 Gnd, and the red wire he put in H3 pk3 all have solder. Mine don't, other than pk3 should there be soldeded in stuff theres?

 

 

 

Wait a minute what's this? Says "Alternator Brain , 2012 Brainwerks"

Don't tell me it a alternator control.

 

Anyone know what this is and what it covers?

I did several searches and didn't really find any info on it.

 

Most likely alternator control. See post 7 with Braineacks diagram, https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...tal-inj-76359/

 

Ok thanks

 

Looked at it and I think I'll pm a few guys to see if anyone can say for sure this will work on a 05 msm.

 

It's my alternator controller. I must have built that one before the code was available. Only 18 of those units exist...


what are you actually trying to do?

 

Well that explains why I don't find much on this circuit board. Trying to convert this ms3x I got from 18psi to work in my 2005 msm. I know he had a 01 vvt and is different.

 

Last thing I had trouble with was alternator was not charging and I could not run 2 FM fans, so I unplugged 1 side and raised idle up to 1500. That's been working for few weeks now. Seen u used Spr3 and Spr4 to control the alternator but was told to move Spr4 and don't think anyone knew it was used for the alternator. I just found this over the weekend while getting ready to do the pull up resistor thing.

 

wanna just send it back to me and ill make it work?

 

Sure pm me some info

 

Going forward update

Finally got a weekend off and installed the MS3X back into the car. My laptop no longer worked without being plugged in so I dropped a few dollars on a new one. Everything got loaded last night and really looking forward to putting everything to use. Started the car and checked voltage so far its looking good, fans kicked on and did not kill the car. So happy that's behind me now. Thanks Braineack!!!!!

I did notice now my AFR's are reading odd. The AFR table floats between 14.7 and 15 but my wideband LC1 is steadily going higher. I seen over a 2min run time it climbed to 19 so I shut down the car. The table reads good but the gauge on the TS screen and my LC1 both read the increasing number so I'm going to read up a bit on that section before going any further. If you all know if I need to turn on/off or check something let me know please. I will read up a bit then jump back online.

 

I spent the day reading but found nothing on why the AFR readings are showing in 2 places differently. Anyone see what I missed. I adjusted the Timing map and AFR map and now I get a jump in idle every 30 seconds that last about 10 seconds @ 2700 rpm then drops back to 1200 or so. Car starts in 2 or 3 revolutions so starting and stays running, no knock or pinging. CLT and MAT sensors are also not the same on a cold engine, one reads 41 and the other reads 54 degrees F.

 

I attached 2 files but only 1 uploaded so here is the other one.

ok well it wont load....hmmm