**Aflac's MS thread plead for help**
#1
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**Aflac's MS thread plead for help**
I've been trouble-shooting along with Scott's gracious customer service expertise for about a month now and we hit a point where were stumped.
Problem: The car will not go beyond 3000 rpm even at WOT but it will make 5psi.
I've attached my most recent datalog. Fast forward to "5901 of 27499" to see what were dealing with here.
Problem: The car will not go beyond 3000 rpm even at WOT but it will make 5psi.
I've attached my most recent datalog. Fast forward to "5901 of 27499" to see what were dealing with here.
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We've been troubleshooting at it for about a month but this issue occurred 2 weeks ago (college/work has also been a hindrance on my part). I know of 2 other 1.6's and one is down for a motor rebuild and the other wont respond to my voicemails even though we go to the same university. Dan (whaaamx5) has a 1.8 so im kind of a loner on this one.
Scott suggested that maybe I have a boost leak but I was tugging at my intercooler pipes and no budge. I'll try re-tightening them down just in case.
Scott suggested that maybe I have a boost leak but I was tugging at my intercooler pipes and no budge. I'll try re-tightening them down just in case.
#5
Tugging on the pipes won't determine if it's leaking. Mine can leak on on side but not the other and still be solid mounted with the clamps. That is like testing a blown headgasket by tugging on the head to see if it comes off.
By testing it in another car i meant put the MS in another car. The MS itself will work in any miata as long as the coil outputs aren't switched around like scott used to do them. That includes possibly mailing it to someone to have them test it in their car.
By testing it in another car i meant put the MS in another car. The MS itself will work in any miata as long as the coil outputs aren't switched around like scott used to do them. That includes possibly mailing it to someone to have them test it in their car.
#6
Are you running HighRes? I'm having the same problem and had to flash back to the standard firmware for now.
See this thread:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...620#post206620
See this thread:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...620#post206620
#7
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he litterly cant more more than 3100RPM. this is full throttle and 5psi of boost
its not misfiring or resetting. it's like his rev limiter is 3100RPM.
I still think its a major boost leak. since its a map sensor it will still run as normal, but all the airflow is not making its way into the engine therefor it cant go faster.
its not misfiring or resetting. it's like his rev limiter is 3100RPM.
I still think its a major boost leak. since its a map sensor it will still run as normal, but all the airflow is not making its way into the engine therefor it cant go faster.
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Want to see msq
Don't agree with boost leak theory--even at 0psi the car should rev to 7200+
Don't agree with boost leak theory--even at 0psi the car should rev to 7200+
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Last edited by Ben; 02-04-2008 at 08:01 PM.
#9
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We don't have alot of information here (firmware version? msq?) but I took a look at the attached log and from what I can see the MS at least thinks it's doing it's job just fine.... that doesn't rule out 100% of possible MS related issues, but there's no fuel cut or spark cut going on. As Saboteur mentioned he's run into an issue when Easytherming the HiRes code that may have had similar symptoms-- not sure if it's the same thing or not. I'm running HiRes on more than one Miata, Easytherm'd, and not having a problem. I can share my code and will be soon anyways, but haven't had a chance to post that up yet.
Anyways... on to other non-MS related, or semi-MS related (install) issues...
If the base timing was WAY retarded you might see something like this, not enough power to pull through the revs. I doubt it though.
Otherwise... something else seems to be a factor. Thing is though, even if there was a major boost leak- it would drop to atmospheric pressure and still rev out to redline similar to a stock N/A car, just with slightly less power due to the exhaust restriction.
I'm leaning to MS or MS install related- code be code corruption, bad MSQ, something...
If you put a timing light on the crank and rev it up from idle-- does the timing advance or stay put?
Anyways... on to other non-MS related, or semi-MS related (install) issues...
If the base timing was WAY retarded you might see something like this, not enough power to pull through the revs. I doubt it though.
Otherwise... something else seems to be a factor. Thing is though, even if there was a major boost leak- it would drop to atmospheric pressure and still rev out to redline similar to a stock N/A car, just with slightly less power due to the exhaust restriction.
I'm leaning to MS or MS install related- code be code corruption, bad MSQ, something...
If you put a timing light on the crank and rev it up from idle-- does the timing advance or stay put?
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Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
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'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
#10
Yea I would put a timing light on it and see what's going on. Perhaps the timing is too advanced, and at 3K it advances enough that pre ignition won't let it go any higher, though I doubt that's it. A wide band or even a NB would tell you if it's a fuel or timing problem, and that would help narrow down the possibilities. Also make sure all your grounds are good, as I've seen bad grounding cause the weirdest problems on cars and it's a possibility.
#11
Saboteur was having similar issues, but he is trying to run hi-res.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...0&postcount=87
Can't seem to get it easytherm'd, it won't rev past 2500 he says.
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/sho...0&postcount=87
Can't seem to get it easytherm'd, it won't rev past 2500 he says.
#13
My car could boost and drove fine if I shifted at 2250rpm, as soon as I hit around 2500rpm it would hit a limiter. I thought it was overboost or launch control, so I disabled all those features but it didn't make any difference. After thinking about it, I was using the same MSQ that works fine on the standard MSnS-Extra firmware so it has to be the firmware or something I am doing to it.
Cheers
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Scott, we were having a problem with the software so instead Mr. Cramer gave me a link to downloaded the whole diyautotune MS software.
Alright, the general consensus is for me to take a timing light to the car to see how much timing it idles at and also while the motor is revving?
If thats fine, I should either mess with my easytherm or reflash the firmware.
Does that sum it up a little bit?
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I'm still not clear what firmware you're running Aflac... maybe I missed it... version?
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Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
Jerry a.k.a. 'FoundSoul'
DIYAutoTune.com
'91 Miata BEGi S3 GT2560 w/ MSPNP - 14.1psi - 253whp, 232wtq
'95 Miata n/a
A few other cars....
#17
I had a very similar problem with my Haltech setup quite a long time ago, where I could not get my car to rev past approximately 5800RPM. It drove me CRAZY for months. The car would boost fine and run fine, albeit feel down on power. It was just like the engine was incapable of rotating any faster. Eventually on a hunch, I solved the problem, which turned out to be a combination of two factors:
a) swapped ignition channels (got my BRN and BRN/YEL wires around the wrong way)
b) home edge: rising instead of falling
The setting is Haltech specific and to be honest I don't even know if it applies to MegaSquirts - I haven't installed mine in my car to be able to have a play. But once the home edge was set to falling (it's a dumb ignitor, otherwise you select rising) and the channels swapped - it was fixed.
Once I'd corrected the problem - holy crap - the car had new life. It pulled harder, went faster, and revved to whatever limit I set in the software.
I really doubt you have the exact same problem, but I'm thinking perhaps it's timing related.
a) swapped ignition channels (got my BRN and BRN/YEL wires around the wrong way)
b) home edge: rising instead of falling
The setting is Haltech specific and to be honest I don't even know if it applies to MegaSquirts - I haven't installed mine in my car to be able to have a play. But once the home edge was set to falling (it's a dumb ignitor, otherwise you select rising) and the channels swapped - it was fixed.
Once I'd corrected the problem - holy crap - the car had new life. It pulled harder, went faster, and revved to whatever limit I set in the software.
I really doubt you have the exact same problem, but I'm thinking perhaps it's timing related.
#18
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Nick you could try that. you're running rising edge right now....
change to this:
the ignition channels should be correct, (just swap your 2&3 plug wires for #1&4), but i doubt that will work and it wont want to run at all, it will try to fire on the wrong cycle and push the piston back down when it's trying to move up....not good.
change to this:
the ignition channels should be correct, (just swap your 2&3 plug wires for #1&4), but i doubt that will work and it wont want to run at all, it will try to fire on the wrong cycle and push the piston back down when it's trying to move up....not good.