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MEGAsquirt A place to collectively sort out this megasquirt gizmo

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Old 07-30-2006, 11:29 AM   #61
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that looks awesome, Like stock!
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Old 07-30-2006, 03:05 PM   #62
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Wow, slickest MS setup I've seen, love the in car PC. would make tuning a breeze. THat's probably the first in-dash screen of any kind I have seen that is worth a damn.
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Old 07-30-2006, 05:03 PM   #63
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Thanks for the good words guys. Al, tuning should be mostly the same, it's the painless 24/7 monitoring that really helps. Ie, if something goes wrong I fire up Megatune and check what's wrong. No need to carry a laptop with me all the time.
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Old 07-30-2006, 05:39 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverant
Thanks for the good words guys. Al, tuning should be mostly the same, it's the painless 24/7 monitoring that really helps. Ie, if something goes wrong I fire up Megatune and check what's wrong. No need to carry a laptop with me all the time.

It's my intention to buy and buld a Megaviw for that same reason, I know the functionallity is no-where near the same, but it'll allow me to keep an eye on the sensors and what they're outputting.

As a bonus, it's like the LINK keypad, i.e. major coolness
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Old 07-30-2006, 05:50 PM   #65
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Well, if I didn't have the incar pc, I would certainly use a Megaview. However you can have up to 8 gauges on MegaTune, so this is a major plus.
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Old 07-30-2006, 06:09 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverant
Well, if I didn't have the incar pc, I would certainly use a Megaview. However you can have up to 8 gauges on MegaTune, so this is a major plus.
I know where you're coming from there, I can't afford an incarPC and TFT scrren tho, so a lappy and MV will have to do me ;-)

I'm loving your setup though, it's awesome
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Old 07-31-2006, 07:18 AM   #67
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That looks hot! Are you worried about losing sequential?
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Old 07-31-2006, 08:42 AM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saboteur
Are you worried about losing sequential?
Not really, with the wideband in place the MS will see how much fuel deposits on the walls of the intake runners and on the valve and will squirt accordingly (especially true with the autotune function). Fuel consumption might be up just a little bit, but that doesn't really hurt much.
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Old 08-03-2006, 02:59 PM   #69
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Installed the '90 CAS today. Lots of bruises, cuts and burns. Changed the O ring on the CAS as the previous was (literally) rock-hard. Installation was "fairly" easy, I will be watching the next few days for possible oil leaks or other bad stuff. I will try to find a decent location for my external MAP sensor as well.
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Old 08-03-2006, 04:29 PM   #70
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Nice setup, I have considered getting a small tablet PC to do the same function as the one in your dash ... dont know how possible that route would be though
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Old 08-03-2006, 05:01 PM   #71
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You'ld be far better off using a used laptop and a good touchscreen, like the Xenarc 700TSV if you ask me.
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Old 08-07-2006, 09:54 AM   #72
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More troubles....maybe. I was installing a megasquirt on a 97 Jeep Wrangler and the check engine light comes on and the OEM ECU shuts down when the injectors are disconnected. Reverant you may need to get some resistors to fool the ECU into thinking the injectors are still connected. It appears most ODB-II cars check for the injectors.
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Old 08-07-2006, 10:44 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kingofl337
More troubles....maybe. I was installing a megasquirt on a 97 Jeep Wrangler and the check engine light comes on and the OEM ECU shuts down when the injectors are disconnected. Reverant you may need to get some resistors to fool the ECU into thinking the injectors are still connected. It appears most ODB-II cars check for the injectors.
Keep in mind that I have the switchbox connected. When I was testing the switches, I switched all the injectors off, and naturally the engine would not start. The ECU didn't even bother turning the check engine on, so I'm not too worried.

Thanks for the tip though - would save me the trouble of hooking up my scantool OBD-II reader.
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Old 08-09-2006, 07:04 PM   #74
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"A Red Letter Day..."

Connected the MS to my '02 today, injectors and coils still under stock ECU control. Anyone care to guess what's wrong with this picture?

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Old 08-09-2006, 07:31 PM   #75
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Short answer: No RPM reading.

The electrical connection to the CAS is fine: I connect the CKP wire to pin #24, CMP to #25. If I disconnect both from the MS and connect my o-scope, I get good, clean signals on both, as expected. Connect them again to the MS, CMP looks fine, CKP is a constant voltage line.

Is this normal? What do you guys get?

Attached is my wheel decoder config, just in case...
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mS on 2004-wheel_decoder1.jpg  
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Old 08-10-2006, 08:52 AM   #76
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I would check the board mods to allow the MS to read the CAS. Something may be amis there.
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Old 08-10-2006, 08:58 AM   #77
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I just checked them again, everything seems fine...? Here is my board, from down under.
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Old 08-10-2006, 10:02 AM   #78
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And a snapshot of the CAS while the engine is idling (10ms/div, 5V/div), disconnected from the MS. As soon as I reconnect the CAS, the CKP signal becomes a flat line at 6.75V, while the CMP signal remains as is.

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Old 08-10-2006, 10:37 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reverant
And a snapshot of the CAS while the engine is idling (10ms/div, 5V/div), disconnected from the MS. As soon as I reconnect the CAS, the CKP signal becomes a flat line at 6.75V, while the CMP signal remains as is.
So the CKP signal becomes a flat line as soon as you connect it to the MS? It sounds like a "input filter issue" with some unsuitable pull-up resistor or similar.

But I'm only guessing of course... Keep up the good work
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Old 08-10-2006, 12:11 PM   #80
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I o-scoped and photo'ed my CAS while disconnected from the MS (photo cas_extra_90.jpg) and compared it to the stock CAS (photo cas_stock_2002.jpg).

I did notice that the stock CKP pulse is at 5v peak. The extra '90 CAS pulses are at 6.75V. So I took the liberty of connecting the stock CAS to the MS and cranked the engine. The RPMs register in Megatune but the engine won't start, propably the CAS signal voltage is too low when the signal is shared between ECUs.

Right, so we have two almost identical signals, one that works and one that doesnt. The one that works is 5V, the one that doesn't work is 6.75V. This makes things pretty obvious: I must drop the signal down to 5V, that will propably do the trick. I'll try the usual resistor values (330, 680, 1K, 2.2K) and see if these do the trick.
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mS on 2004-cas_stock_2002.jpg   mS on 2004-cas_extra_90.jpg  
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