dash tach or megasquirt digital tach?

those first two resistors you moved? they are orange orange red gold?

 

dash
the 2 you had me move are brown black red gold

 

no, the first that were already on the green wires. i think they are 30K or something judging by the colors which may be why the dash tach isn't moving (no spark)

 

oobg, 330ohm

 

hmmm i dunno then. i guess revert it all back and ill scratch my head for a bit.

 

well, i left it as it was last night, and rebuilt the harness for standalone, and it starts now! it does POP when you first turn the key on though, scared the ---- out of me lol
still working on it of course, IAC works, i dont know if the fan does yet

 

search about the pop. that good, wonder what the deal was, but that dropout SHOULD go away.

 

i spent hours last night building the harness from scratch lol
someone should really label the parts each wire goes to from this

and i say that because there is 2 Bl/w and 2 Gn/w, one of each has a yellow line, which i presumed to be the sensor one, however, since i was making it from scratch i was guessing lol
http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...ne_harness.jpg

 

thats why those pin positions are called out on the oem side diagram. make sure your clutch input and fan output match...

 

my clutch switch is bypassed so i didnt hook that up
it doesnt specify which is which, unless im looking in the wrong places

the colors with yellow highlight i used for the ignitor and CAS, car runs so i assume i assumed right lol
so the 2 without yellow are for clutch and fans? i didnt solder those 2 to the harness connector yet, just the db37.
i dont have the fan mod installed, granted i dont have the IAC either, though IAC works.
presuming my fan doesnt work, what part numbers will i need? i have a couple old ecus from other cars i robbed a 1k 1/4 off of last night, along with a few other parts. only thing i dont have is the .01uf cap

 

correct.

(but look again on the harness diagram--the blue/green CAS input is label with pin 25, and the spark output is labeled with pin 31)


you can use the middle led circuit to run the fan relay...see the diagram i posted a bunch of posted back.

 

wow, i see that now lol, i feel stupid now

not sure how i missed that lol. yea im looking at the diagram now, about jumping d15 led, so im reading through that. you say q4 is not used so put the q4 chip where the q7 chip is/was?

btw, heres my final

 

back to the drawing boards, fixed the shock earlier, finally got to road test it, its 20x worse now

 

video

 

where are you at Braineack?

bypassed CKP and CMP to the ecu, still dropping off, so it has to be something with the ecu physical setup

 

added a .1uf cap, still same results

 

and ideas? im completely lost, if it were not for the bike i would be stranded at home

 

you know a lot of times when you see RPM spikes like that it's a bad ignitor...


that's what mine was doing after a while of running on those old kingofleet mods.

 

under wheel decoder options, try:

base = 2
2nsd trigger
rising
no missing
trig pos A 2
Trig pos B 1

025 style

 

the ignitor is built into the coils correct? so if i change the coil pack in theory it should go away