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Old 11-02-2010, 03:30 PM   #21
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Thanks for all the help Brain.

Before i make the change in the map -- i should mention that ALSO connected to the LEDs are resistors (on the back, same side as the wires). On the flip side, they appear to connect to R24 and R28.. Does that matter or is "normal" still the right choice?

Also i'm looking at that picture you posted. My wires now look like the yellow ones you pointed out, but i don't some of the others:

e.g.:
my tachselect goes to C30, not XG1

i don't have a jump from tsel to optout

no 5V to C30 (but tachselect goes there..?)
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Old 11-02-2010, 03:54 PM   #22
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yes, with your configuration make sure spark output is set to normal, not inverted.


they might have built your tach input circuit different. were you getting RPMs in Tuner Studio?
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Old 11-02-2010, 04:00 PM   #23
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The guy says he didn't touch any "external wiring", so i would assume that the tach circuit is unchanged.
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Old 11-02-2010, 04:02 PM   #24
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no, because what you described is not how I had the input mods for MS-I, he just didnt move your spark outputs cause he probably didnt know they get reversed. you litterally just swapped coilA with coilB, MS-II output them in reverse of that of MS-I
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Old 11-02-2010, 07:25 PM   #25
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You guys are awesome.

I was able to swap the wires and the car started right up (more or less).

The idle was complete **** and i had to keep blipping the throttle to avoid stalling.

I set the timing to 10, used the trigger wizard and timing gun to dial it in.

Question:

1) Is 45.5* in "Trigger Angle / Offset (deg)" a reasonable value? I had it at 77 in MS-I, so i find it odd that it's so different here unless it's supposed to be different?

2) Is this correct: I have ignition capture on "falling edge", spark output "going low (normal)".

3) maybe it's because the car sat for two weeks and then was cranked for a good while, but it's making some horrible clicking.. sounds like lifter noise but louder than i've ever heard before.

4) it wants to stall whenever i edit any settings, even things like accel enrichment low rpm..?

Sorry for all the n00b questions, but it's like starting all over again.
Anyways, thanks for all the help again -- now it's time to tune the whole damn thing all over again!
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Old 11-05-2010, 08:34 PM   #26
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I've made some progress..

1) Something was weird with that 45.5*... I drove the car to work 2 days ago, and it was driveable but not good... Exhaust was too loud (?) i built boost earlier than ever but the car felt crappy under load. I re-checked timing that night and it was way off..? I jumped TEN to GND in the diag box, set timing table to FIXED @ 10, and re-ran the wizard to adjust to indicated 10 on the pulley. It was off by like 14 degrees overly advanced.. What's super strange is that now my trigger angle offset value is 2*, which is not 14 less than 45.5... so i FAIL at understanding.

2) I'll go with 'yes'.

3) Lifter noise went away with a few miles of driving.. Idling for half an hour didn't help, but driving fixed it in no time.

4) This is still annoying and more noticeable than with MS-1 (especially when start/stopping VE Analyze Live and exiting some menus), but is improved to a degree now that timing is correct.

-------

Two basic issues remain that I NEVER noticed with MS-I.

1) RESETs (?) Not ALL the time, but fairly regularly when under any kind of boost over 2 or 3 PSI. It doesn't seem to affect drivability, the only reason i notice is because Tuner Studio complains about it.

2) runs on 2 cylinders sometimes.. this seems to be related to the harness (?) but i don't understand how / why because the harness was fine for a long time with MS-I, and upon inspection of the DB37 connector all the solder joints seem to be in good shape, no wires touching.. This problem appears out of nowhere and usually would last until i touch or tap the MS near the connector. Note: I *did* re-solder the ignition outputs myself and i suck at soldering, but the connections seem OK to me and the wires are on the board solidly.

PLEASE help me resolve these stupid little problems!
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Old 11-05-2010, 11:48 PM   #27
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cold solder joint, redo you soldering, i bet you can pull one of the wires right off.

post a log of the reset.
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Old 11-06-2010, 09:17 PM   #28
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I re-did the ignition wires on the MS, and also checked the harness. By the time i pulled out the harness from the car for inspection several of the wires broke off at the car side connector.

I did my best to re-solder everything (TPS, Ground, and one of the injector wires (expains the 2 cylinder operation)).

I went for a drive and it's even worse now.. resets are quite frequent now, pretty much every time you hit boost, and even in neutral if you rev it up a bit..

Any tips on achieving a good solder joint??
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Old 11-07-2010, 09:20 PM   #29
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I confirmed today that I do in fact suck at soldering. Two of the recently 'fixed' joints broke again.
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:41 AM   #30
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ha! they should be shiny like the rest of my joints...if they are dull, they wont hold.
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Old 11-08-2010, 09:54 AM   #31
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Old copper wiring is no good if your try to solder on it. The corrosion that builds on the copper resists being soldered. Try to gently scrape the copper strands, that will help a bit.
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Old 11-08-2010, 10:45 AM   #32
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Also use leaded solder. It's much easier to work with than the politically correct lead free stuff.
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