MS1 random cut out while cruising
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Wanted to add to this thread. I have suffered from this issue on my fathers 95 from day 1.
I have built the optoisolator circuit to no avail.
It is an extremely long story but when the car had MS2 on it, it had no issues. After I converted to MS1 this is when the symptoms showed themselves. I feel the optoisolator circuit did indeed "help", but not cure the issue.
Seriously though, with how easy it truly is to change to MS2, it doesn't make much sense to continue to run MS1. Unless you already have a spare CAS, spend the money on MS2 and upgrade what you have.
I have built the optoisolator circuit to no avail.
It is an extremely long story but when the car had MS2 on it, it had no issues. After I converted to MS1 this is when the symptoms showed themselves. I feel the optoisolator circuit did indeed "help", but not cure the issue.
Seriously though, with how easy it truly is to change to MS2, it doesn't make much sense to continue to run MS1. Unless you already have a spare CAS, spend the money on MS2 and upgrade what you have.
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 105
Total Cats: 8
Wanted to add to this thread. I have suffered from this issue on my fathers 95 from day 1.
I have built the optoisolator circuit to no avail.
It is an extremely long story but when the car had MS2 on it, it had no issues. After I converted to MS1 this is when the symptoms showed themselves. I feel the optoisolator circuit did indeed "help", but not cure the issue.
Seriously though, with how easy it truly is to change to MS2, it doesn't make much sense to continue to run MS1. Unless you already have a spare CAS, spend the money on MS2 and upgrade what you have.
I have built the optoisolator circuit to no avail.
It is an extremely long story but when the car had MS2 on it, it had no issues. After I converted to MS1 this is when the symptoms showed themselves. I feel the optoisolator circuit did indeed "help", but not cure the issue.
Seriously though, with how easy it truly is to change to MS2, it doesn't make much sense to continue to run MS1. Unless you already have a spare CAS, spend the money on MS2 and upgrade what you have.
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 105
Total Cats: 8
Bringing this back.
I cleaned all grounds and ran new one to the ecu from head.
Upgraded to Toyota COP setup.
Problem still persists, though it seemed like it was not as severe/often, though I only drove it today.
So I suppose the only thing left is the CAS?
I cleaned all grounds and ran new one to the ecu from head.
Upgraded to Toyota COP setup.
Problem still persists, though it seemed like it was not as severe/often, though I only drove it today.
So I suppose the only thing left is the CAS?
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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 105
Total Cats: 8
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I tried Joe's circuit and the car didnt start, but I probably messed something up. That was 2 years ago and I just swapped everything back over immediately.
I am going MS2 in the spring, using the standard inputs. If I have issues after that I will continue investigating.
I am going MS2 in the spring, using the standard inputs. If I have issues after that I will continue investigating.
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I think that is what Joe ended up doing. For me that is an ugly option as I need to be able to swap back to the stock ECU easily for OBD2 emissions here in CT. I don't want to have a secondary harness and a bunch of **** to change.
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 34,402
Total Cats: 7,523
From: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
It was, back on my first Miata and my first MS1. I now know more than I did then, and I would not recommend this as a fix for a finicky CAS.
In my case, the CAS worked fine on the stock ECU, but not the MS. That alone tells you that the MS was the problem, but I really wanted to build something on my new lathe, do I solved the problem the extremely hard way.
In my case, the CAS worked fine on the stock ECU, but not the MS. That alone tells you that the MS was the problem, but I really wanted to build something on my new lathe, do I solved the problem the extremely hard way.
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 105
Total Cats: 8
It was, back on my first Miata and my first MS1. I now know more than I did then, and I would not recommend this as a fix for a finicky CAS.
In my case, the CAS worked fine on the stock ECU, but not the MS. That alone tells you that the MS was the problem, but I really wanted to build something on my new lathe, do I solved the problem the extremely hard way.
In my case, the CAS worked fine on the stock ECU, but not the MS. That alone tells you that the MS was the problem, but I really wanted to build something on my new lathe, do I solved the problem the extremely hard way.
So I don't think it would be too hard nor crazy expensive
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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 105
Total Cats: 8
Swapped the CAS for another one I got with a used engine. Still no change. Also soaked the board in alcohol to clean all the flux off (i never did the first time around as it was supposedly no clean flux wire). Still no change. I'm at a a loss here.
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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 105
Total Cats: 8
Switched to 36-1 and a Hall sensor and have more noise than before.
If I rev the engine and hold it around 5k it will have RPM spikes in logs to 10k.
Activates rev limited/retard resulting in flames lol.
Installed a shielded wire on the sensor, improved things but still spikes.
So basically I've tried:
Switched to COPs to eliminate coils/igniter
Switched to a new CAS
Built second opto isolator
Cleaned the board
Added more grounds/cleaned existing
Switched to 36-1 with a Hall sensor
So the only thing left original/unchanged is the MS1.
Will an MS2 card do it or is something else inside my MS messed up? Ahhh such a headache
edit:
said **** it, summer is near, ordered MS2 daughter board
If I rev the engine and hold it around 5k it will have RPM spikes in logs to 10k.
Activates rev limited/retard resulting in flames lol.
Installed a shielded wire on the sensor, improved things but still spikes.
So basically I've tried:
Switched to COPs to eliminate coils/igniter
Switched to a new CAS
Built second opto isolator
Cleaned the board
Added more grounds/cleaned existing
Switched to 36-1 with a Hall sensor
So the only thing left original/unchanged is the MS1.
Will an MS2 card do it or is something else inside my MS messed up? Ahhh such a headache
edit:
said **** it, summer is near, ordered MS2 daughter board
Last edited by kero; Mar 31, 2014 at 11:09 PM.
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Switched to 36-1 and a Hall sensor and have more noise than before.
If I rev the engine and hold it around 5k it will have RPM spikes in logs to 10k.
Activates rev limited/retard resulting in flames lol.
Installed a shielded wire on the sensor, improved things but still spikes.
So basically I've tried:
Switched to COPs to eliminate coils/igniter
Switched to a new CAS
Built second opto isolator
Cleaned the board
Added more grounds/cleaned existing
Switched to 36-1 with a Hall sensor
So the only thing left original/unchanged is the MS1.
Will an MS2 card do it or is something else inside my MS messed up? Ahhh such a headache
edit:
said **** it, summer is near, ordered MS2 daughter board
If I rev the engine and hold it around 5k it will have RPM spikes in logs to 10k.
Activates rev limited/retard resulting in flames lol.
Installed a shielded wire on the sensor, improved things but still spikes.
So basically I've tried:
Switched to COPs to eliminate coils/igniter
Switched to a new CAS
Built second opto isolator
Cleaned the board
Added more grounds/cleaned existing
Switched to 36-1 with a Hall sensor
So the only thing left original/unchanged is the MS1.
Will an MS2 card do it or is something else inside my MS messed up? Ahhh such a headache
edit:
said **** it, summer is near, ordered MS2 daughter board
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 95
Total Cats: 6
From: San Fran
I, too, have the same issue.
MS1 v3 DIY built myself following the original thread.
I am getting dropouts around 3.5k RPM, so basically highway cruising.
I was able to follow the instructions pretty well to build the MS board as the picture tutorial was great. I tried to read the schematic but I am not 100% sure as I do not know symbols for everything. I used my mad MSPaint skills to add on to DIY's mod photo to show how I would solder in this 2nd opto circuit.
Can anyone confirm that this is correct?
MS1 v3 DIY built myself following the original thread.
I am getting dropouts around 3.5k RPM, so basically highway cruising.
I was able to follow the instructions pretty well to build the MS board as the picture tutorial was great. I tried to read the schematic but I am not 100% sure as I do not know symbols for everything. I used my mad MSPaint skills to add on to DIY's mod photo to show how I would solder in this 2nd opto circuit.
Can anyone confirm that this is correct?
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