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Old 10-19-2008, 10:19 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by wayne_curr View Post
Oh, another question for those of you who wired the db37 directly into the car instead of using the tyco connector...

What crimp connectors did you use? In the past with alarm installs i've used T-Taps on the factory wires to get a connection. Should I use something better/more robust for these connections?
Solder and heat shrink everything. Many will disagree with this, arguing that solder could crack over time. But in the real world, I see crimp connectors fail all the time and never see a soldered joint fail. When I built my MS2 standalone (read, more standalone than yours), I soldered everything.
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Old 10-20-2008, 05:56 PM   #42
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Am I still going to be able to use the mspnp 9093 .msq with the HR code? Are all the settings the same for idle etc? I flashed it to the ms last night and I think I may take a stab at installing this shiz today.
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Old 10-20-2008, 07:02 PM   #43
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Truthfully, I don't know if the actual MSQ itself will be portable from lorez to hirez (I never tried it) however the vast majority of the tables and settings will work just fine. Idle, spark, cranking, warmup, etc should all be 100% correct. In my experience, VE will require some slight tweaking, but I emphasize slight- well within MLV's capabilities.
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Old 10-20-2008, 07:05 PM   #44
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Ok, my level of confusion is growing now that i'm on Hires.

My required fuel calculator is throwing me off as well as the constants page. It keeps changing back to a 350CID engine with 42lb/hr injector flow. What should my settings be on engine constants and req fuel?
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Old 10-20-2008, 08:49 PM   #45
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A small, token prize to the person who identifies all the different types of wiring devices that I used:



By way of meekly defending this mess, I'll note that I'd previously had an EMU in here, so any wire which had previously been tapped or cut for that simply got re-used. There are a few connectors hanging with nothing plugged into them- those were connections made for the EMU that weren't needed with the MS.
I'll play. See how many types of connectors you see in my entire engine harness.

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Answer: There's large butt connectors for the +12V wires where they go into the fuse holder. And a couple others. But 97% is soldered and heat shrinked.

Try opening Megatune, opening a known good MSQ, and then setting the constants you speak of, then close, then save. Reopen and see if they changes took effect.
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Old 10-20-2008, 08:59 PM   #46
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The calculator has no bearing on actual operation. It's just a tool to help you figure out the correct value to put into Req_Fuel. And yes, it resets itself every time you close it.

The Req_Fuel constant should not change much when switching between regular and HR code. Thus, assuming stock injectors I'd keep it at the stock DIY setting. For your 1.6, that would be 13.4.

The same goes for the rest of the engine constants. Start with the DIY values. Unless you've changed the injectors already, any tweaks to the defaults will be minor for now.

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Old 10-20-2008, 11:32 PM   #47
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I've changed all the settings to the DIY ones as outlined on their writeup. I've made sure my constants reflect the above. There still seem to be lots of menus with things that I haven't changed but i'll follow JP's advice and leave them be.

I guess i'm ready to start wiring things up. Brain's diagram of the Miata ECU harness with the callouts is only for paralell i assume. It seems to have several fewer callouts than wires that i'll need to splice in. What should I be following for wiring the pigtail into the stock harness?

Also, should I wire up the WB initially or get it to idle with the NB first before introducing too many questionmarks to the process? As for grounding, do I just run all the ground wires through the firewall to the valve cover directly?
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Old 10-21-2008, 02:29 AM   #48
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There still seem to be lots of menus with things that I haven't changed but i'll follow JP's advice and leave them be.
Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that nothing else needs changing from a "bare" MSQ- lots of stuff in fact needs congifuring. Cranking, warmup / ASE, idle control (two pages' worth), some outputs, etc. What I am saying is that for starters, you can use the base maps (.MSQ file) that DIY distributes with the MSPNP: http://megasquirtpnp.com/mspnp_downloads.htm

Quote:
What should I be following for wiring the pigtail into the stock harness?
Ideally, your own notes made while looking at a copy of the factory service manual's wiring diagram.

Assuming you built your MS essentially to Brainey's specs (in terms of pinout) then you can wire it the same way as he calls out. It doesn't matter, for instance, if you splice into a line rather than cutting said line if there's no ECU on the other end of the harness. Quite a few connections on my harness are tapped rather than cut, for no other reason than that they were tapped back when I had an EMU, and now it doesn't matter since the ECU is gone anyway.

Quote:
Also, should I wire up the WB initially or get it to idle with the NB first before introducing too many questionmarks to the process?
The WBO2 should be installed and working before the MS goes in.

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As for grounding, do I just run all the ground wires through the firewall to the valve cover directly?
Yup.

Well, not the valve cover itself, but the main grounding point in the rear section of the head. (or is it the IM... I honestly can't remember where those bolts are...)
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Old 10-21-2008, 02:25 PM   #49
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Sorry, I didn't mean to imply that nothing else needs changing from a "bare" MSQ- lots of stuff in fact needs congifuring. Cranking, warmup / ASE, idle control (two pages' worth), some outputs, etc. What I am saying is that for starters, you can use the base maps (.MSQ file) that DIY distributes with the MSPNP: http://megasquirtpnp.com/mspnp_downloads.htm
Ok, thats why I asked earlier if I could actually use the MSPNP .msq with the HR code. I'll give it a shot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Ideally, your own notes made while looking at a copy of the factory service manual's wiring diagram.


Assuming you built your MS essentially to Brainey's specs (in terms of pinout) then you can wire it the same way as he calls out. It doesn't matter, for instance, if you splice into a line rather than cutting said line if there's no ECU on the other end of the harness. Quite a few connections on my harness are tapped rather than cut, for no other reason than that they were tapped back when I had an EMU, and now it doesn't matter since the ECU is gone anyway.
I started tapping into the wires last night following brain's callouts on the stock ECU pinout. Rather easy once I figured out which way to look at the harnesses =P. All I need to tap is fans and idle i think other than what he has on there.

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The WBO2 should be installed and working before the MS goes in.
I came to this conclusion last night. Logically in my mind I didn't think the LC1 would work with the stock ECU. After reading the documentation, i realize that my logic is flawed.

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Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Yup.

Well, not the valve cover itself, but the main grounding point in the rear section of the head. (or is it the IM... I honestly can't remember where those bolts are...)
There is kinda a bracket (one of the ones used to hoist the engine) that actually attaches from the valve cover to the manifold for that ground. Thanks for clearing that up, thought it sounded kinda iffy tapping into the stock ecu grounds. I'll run all my grounds through a heavyish gauge amp power wire I have sitting around

Last question for awhile...

I wired up my fans mod like in the writeup, which pin is that going to come out of on the DB37?
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Old 10-21-2008, 03:04 PM   #50
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Give the DIY MSQ a shot. I can't think of any reason why it would not work, I just can't say for certain that it will.

IAC2A is pin 29.
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