MS2 AC Idle Up Code - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 10-13-2011, 05:34 PM   #21
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Update 13 Oct 2011 - released ms2extra_3.1.3_idleup_v3
* Added disable all routines if cranking, otherwise enabled.
* Increased resolution of batt correction by 10.
* Added target idle rpm add.
* Fixed bug in experimental Battery idle duty correction (thanks to Greg for testing/confirming this is fixed).

Get it fresh from here
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...p?f=91&t=42485

Last edited by gslender; 10-19-2011 at 07:17 PM.
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Old 10-19-2011, 10:29 AM   #22
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I'm getting ready to mod the DIYPNP in my 95 to put the AC under software control instead of the passthrough relay control DIY Autotune had in their build notes. Previously I had the input from 1Q (AC activation switch) going into Input 1 and running out to the fan and AC clutch relays. My plan was to just run the output of Input1 into PE1 and then run a line from ALED to the fan and clutch pins, but then I saw a note about removing R14 on Input1.

I have no idea why R14 was removed (although I'm sure I did it if that's what they said to do), so I'm not sure if it'll screw things up now that I'll be running the Input1 out line to the CPU instead of directly to the relays. I'm guessing it has something to do with output voltage or current limiting, but without a schematic I'm not sure what's going on. Should I just move the AC stuff over to Input2 and otherwise run everything as planned?
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:01 PM   #23
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Put R14 back in. R14 is a pull up to 5 volts on the output side of the buffer.
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:13 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Cramer View Post
Put R14 back in. R14 is a pull up to 5 volts on the output side of the buffer.
Yeah, I can see that causing a mess. Thanks for the quick response, that'll be a load off my mind when I'm reworking the jumpers tonight.
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:16 PM   #25
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I'm going to be modding Florin's DIYPNP for this tonight as well. After I install the U3 opt amp I mistakenly left off.


If the code is anyhting like the ms3 code I know it works well. Loving the battery voltage addtion, the factory ECU does this, and my MS firmware has to add this.
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:27 PM   #26
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Quote:
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I'm going to be modding Florin's DIYPNP for this tonight as well. After I install the U3 opt amp I mistakenly left off.
Was the missing U3 the cause of the wacky input problems he was having?
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:33 PM   #27
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yep
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Old 10-19-2011, 05:04 PM   #28
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Gentlemen - the Idle Up mod I've created is based on MS2Extra firmware 3.1.3 which included Seq Inj and PID Idle improvements. Unfortunately it also introduced a bug that causes a lean condition > 6000 rpm for those with Seq Inj. Jean (dev from MSExtra) has released a firmware fix, but not the source code (yet) and it is planned to be made available in 3.1.4 from which I'll quickly apply my mod and re-release the Idle Up mode back to the community.

So...

If you are running batch inj, ignore this and your fine (enjoy smooth idle and better AC/Batt control).

If you are running seq inj, be very careful and perhaps only test the ac idle, do some idle tuning, but don't go and do WOT without using either the 3.1.3c test firmware from Jean or go back to 3.1.2 or earlier. As soon as I get the new firmware from the devs I'll add my new idle code etc.

G
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Old 10-19-2011, 06:41 PM   #29
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Quote:
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Put R14 back in. R14 is a pull up to 5 volts on the output side of the buffer.
Paging Brain - do I have this issue with input1?
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:12 PM   #30
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I'm not clear why you'd run the output of Input1 into PE1 ? Why not just run the AC activation switch to PE1 and then run the chosen WLED output (that status4 is triggered to switch) to Input1 and leave the Output1 as is with the AC/Fan controls running off that. The only thing you may want to do is add a diode to protect the PE1 input from shorts etc...otherwise I'm unclear why you'd run Input1 into PE1 as PE1 is an input itself and there is no reason to do that.
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:24 PM   #31
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its protected through the opt amp, otherwise aled or wled can go straight to the the output directly from the stamped switch on the us module.


buy yeah, technically one could go 1Q to PE1, then ALED to 1J.
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:28 PM   #32
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I just followed the manual for pe1:
Quote:
The DIYPNP can switch fuel and spark tables on command to accommodate different engine configurations or fuel octane ratings. Use the Input 1 or Input 2 circuits for this. The IN pin on the input circuit connects to an external switch, and the OUT pin connects to the PE1 input. The external switch connects to ground, and activates the alternate fuel and spark tables when the input is grounded.
Quote:
The circuits marked Input 1 and Input 2 are general purpose on/off inputs, with a buffer circuit to protect the processor. They are designed for ground triggered inputs, but with some protection for the processor if you accidentally connect them to 12 volts. The output is 5 volts when the input wire is disconnected, 0 volts when the input signal is pulled to ground. These can be used for launch control or table switching.
I did post the question before I did the rewire...
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:32 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
its protected through the opt amp, otherwise aled or wled can go straight to the the output directly from the stamped switch on the us module.


buy yeah, technically one could go 1Q to PE1, then ALED to 1J.
Ok but going 1q through input1 to pe1/pe0 is safer? This hardware nitty gritty is beyond me, past the basic stuff...

But wait- assuming I have no r14 resistor in input 1, what does that mean in English? . And Matt, you said it was ok to use input 1, no mention of the r14...
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:39 PM   #34
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yes, hence the line about the protection to the processor. if you accidentally somehow get 12v on that line, nothing will happen.

if you run straight to pe1 and get 12v to that, the cpu will fry instantly.
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Old 10-19-2011, 07:48 PM   #35
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BTW, for those rewiring- I also removed the connection between the AC relay and the AC fan relay. So for my car, the AC fan is also triggered by status 4, using aled. Staggering the engagement helps make the transition smoother.

Brain, how does ms3 deal with turning off the AC? How does it transition back to no load idle, is there some sort of taper?
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Old 10-19-2011, 09:10 PM   #36
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i dunno, it's pretty seamless, that's all i know.
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Old 10-20-2011, 10:23 AM   #37
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I loaded your v3 code on a DIYPNP last night, works as expected but for one caveot -- the delay on status 4. When set to 20, the delay was 20 seconds, when set to 10 the delay was ten seconds. I left it at 1 which seemed to be a good delay, seemed a touch quicker than 1 full sec, so I was okay with it.

On my MS3 I run ~450ms delay at 12% increase, works very well. I don't see any reason why you'd need more than 1 second of delay with the expection being Greg G and his throttled SC.



BTW, that took a lot of head scratching last night, i kept thinking my DMM was failing, as sometimes I'd check the output and it wasn't grounding, then I'd try it again and it would be, and remove the ground as soon as I'd remove the input. Finally, it hit me that there was a huge delay in the output, where I could count to 20 and the DMM would start beeping.

Hopefully you have the fixed code for seq. inj. as I have another unit handy that I want to load this on, but he's running seq.
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Old 10-20-2011, 11:32 AM   #38
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No I'm good with a ~0.33 sec delay (status4 value of 1), and 13% adder. Weird that you get 1sec per status4 unit, I measured 0.33/unit.
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Old 10-20-2011, 11:39 AM   #39
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That acutally might be closer to what I saw. I left it on "1", and like I said, it was a touch faster than a full second. In fact, yes now that you mention it, I counted like 10 seconds when I had it set to "20".

I was just confused when I read the docs and it said "20" should be 2 seconds.

My suggestion would be if possible to be able to set it in milliseconds like the ms3 firmware.
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Old 10-20-2011, 12:05 PM   #40
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I noticed that at different idle adder values, the time value for a unit of status 4 changes ever so slightly. Not enough to make a big difference, but there nonetheless.

Could you please post a pic of the setup window for the AC idle up in ms3? I saw one before but I can't find it. I seem to recall seeing some sort of 'taper off' setting. Thanks
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