Halcyon

iTrader: (1)

I was planning on using a connector on the engine harness so it's easy to swap back if necessary. A male connector on the engine harness. Female connector coming from the miata coils and a female connector from the LS2 coils.

How far down on the engine harness before the 8 wires from the coils become 5 wires?

I have the entire coil harness for the LS2 coils.
The 12v, signal ground, ground from all the coil plugs combine together to make 3 pins and the signal from each coil makes up the other 4 pins.
I have the male and female side but it looks like getting another oem 7 pin female connector will cost more than getting 2 sets of aftermarket 8 pin Deutsch connectors.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

pt6 and pt7 are the seq fuel outputs. you cannot use them.

you still have the mp45? do you need to boost control, because that's the only remaining free output?

Halcyon

iTrader: (1)

Currently still have the supercharger but upgrading everything to get ready for a turbo.
Can i get a separate item for boost control or would i be better off running my coils in batch mode?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

MBC still works

sccaax

Text removed.

sccaax

Oops just read Brains post. I guess that wouldn't work for me either if I had electronic boost control. I agree. Unless you have a programmed switch in the car, manual boost control is just as quick and reliable - with a decent controller. So I guess that means no electronic boost control for me either. Oh well.

Halcyon

iTrader: (1)

Would love to have my cake and eat it too.
Is there a piggyback electronic boost controller?
Switching on the fly would be nice.

So desolder PA0/boost control in, and boost out/db15
Then jump PA0 to relay 1 in and relay out to 1L.
Then all the other resistor, jumpers, etc.
Then program TS. Where should I go in TS to make the changes?

sccaax

You can always use a standalone EBC.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Or an MBC.

Halcyon

iTrader: (1)

Made a couple of brackets to mount the ls2 truck coils.
It's a tight fit but all 4 coils and bracket slides right in.
This is my first attempt and it works but I think I'll retry and make the coils angle out a bit for more clearance.

Here's a couple of pics:

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

Those coils are THE coils to have.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Lol @ hoppes #9 in the background. You should come visit us in the "Yet Another Gun Thread"

Mounting bracket looks good, I like that it's using the factory holes. Clearance to the firewall will be an issue, I started mocking mine up yesterday. These bastards are big. Do stock plugwires feel like they fit on yours?

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

The stock wires work, barely. The contacts don't put pressure on the contacts inside the coils. If you were to back a wire out by any amount, there will be a small gap between the wire and coil.

That said: They work for me. I did have some misfire issues when one plug wire started working its way loose, but I changed the routing and won't be having any more problems.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Awesome, thanks Bryce! Can the round contact be "opened up" at all to give a little more tension? I don't even have a set of stock plugwires anymore so I don't have one to look at, sorry for the silly questions. If the stock connectors can be made to fit, I don't see why a set of the big *** Magnecore 8.5 90-00 Miata wires wouldn't fit. Goodwin has them on sale right now for $73

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

If you are already buying new wires call Magnecore and have them make you custom wires for $20 more that have correct fittings. It is about $90 for a custom set depending on wire length. I can say that my custom wires from FM fit much nicer then my stock wires did. I also had some sort of misfire issue when I was on stock wires.

Halcyon

iTrader: (1)

These brackets clears the firewall. Small enough where I can slide it in as one unit.
I tried a plug from a LT1 motor and they fit.
Take a look at this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TAY-46069/
That's if you want to cut one end off your stock wires. Making the wires is quite easy. Just make sure you spray the boot and wire liberally with silicone spray. Makes sliding the boot in easy and it doesn't leave a mess.

I'll be making another bracket that angles coils out a little bit and the 45 degrees boots will work perfect. Problem is the stock wires are not quite long enough to reach one of the coil. I would like to keep the stock boots that goes to the spark plugs to keep the water out. Custom Magnecore wires may be the way to go.

Bryce

iTrader: (24)

Lars has a good point. I forgot to mention I was talking about the miata magnecore 8.5 mm wires. After taking pictures, they are definitely not ideal, but I think I can make them work well.

Here are the miata magnecor ends:


And the LS2 coil receptacles:


The metal contact on the coil is recessed by ~1 cm and is ~2 cm long. Its diameter is probably half that of the contact on the wire ends. The current is probably arcing to get to the wires.

When I have the chance, I will try cutting and bending the wire contacts to a smaller radius.

Halcyon

iTrader: (1)

I looked on magnacor's website. Where did you find the $90 price?
I'm hoping they can make LS2 coil boots on one side and Miata plug boots on the other end.

Stock wire have HEI style/size contacts so it's much bigger than the LT1/LS2 style. With the proper terminal, it clicks and locks into place. You could get a set of miata wires from Magnacor and redo the coil end with new terminals from summitracing. But because of the placement of my coils I need longer wires.

Halcyon

iTrader: (1)

Just wanted to confirm before I fry anything.
I can take the 4 signal ground and 4 other ground wire coming from the coil and ground them all 8 to one point on the the head right?

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Call the phone number on Magnecor's website. You have to custom order the wires. The price varies based on the length of the wires. They told me it would take a day or two for them to assemble the wires and get them out to me. Since I used the FM bracket I just ordered the wires that FM already has made for $89.

I have the ground wires grounded to 2 different points on my head. Theoretically you should run the signal ground wires back to the signal ground pins at the MS, then ground the other ones to the block.