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MS3 Basic MAP sensors

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Old 03-22-2019, 06:07 PM
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Default MS3 Basic MAP sensors

So I've started my @Reverant MS3 Basic Install because i took off my birthday to get a head start.
My new Innovate LC-2 wideband is in and working (or claims to be).
The instructions are seemingly simple enough (pull fuse, swap **** tps for variable tps, run vacuum line, pull ecu, plug in ecu, do laptop stuff).
One of those entries however is a cause for concern however.

The MS3 Basic supplied by Rev has an internal barometer with nipple.
However being right hand drive running a vacuum hose from the cabin is not that straight forward.
With my Emerald K3 i had an external MAP sensor so it was just wires going into the cabin.

I've read the MS3 can do altitude correction using an external barometer and its internal but have no idea how to configure this.
I also realise the plug and play nature would be better to get sorted first before moving to open IAT (ie non AFM), altitude correction or any other bits it can do that aren't necessary but nice to have.
So can i wire up the external MAP sensor? if yes how?
And those that have run vacuum tubes on right hand drive cars where do you run them?
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Old 03-22-2019, 06:29 PM
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Actually, there can be (2) external MAP sensors, one for Baro correction, and one for MAP. There is an internal jumper that needs to be moved to access the external MAP vs the internal one. You should have wires identified on the DB37 for each type of sensor.

On my older MS3Basic for 1999 US version:
pin 5 / White / External MAP.... Move jumper
pin 11 / Red / MAP sensor for Baro Correction

Email Reverant with the S/N of your MS3Basic and he will fill in the details.

I have no idea what car you have. I also don't understand what you are referring to when you suggest starting with a MS3 on AFM, then moving to Speed-Density. Recent threads here suggest you can run one or the other.
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by rrjwilson
And those that have run vacuum tubes on right hand drive cars where do you run them?
I ran a vac hose through the bulkhead grommet in front of the passenger footwell - there's a grommet there near where the AC pipes go through (if you have them). If you don't have AC there's a load of other grommets for that...
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Old 03-23-2019, 07:01 AM
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
Actually, there can be (2) external MAP sensors, one for Baro correction, and one for MAP. There is an internal jumper that needs to be moved to access the external MAP vs the internal one. You should have wires identified on the DB37 for each type of sensor.

On my older MS3Basic for 1999 US version:
pin 5 / White / External MAP.... Move jumper
pin 11 / Red / MAP sensor for Baro Correction

Email Reverant with the S/N of your MS3Basic and he will fill in the details.

I have no idea what car you have. I also don't understand what you are referring to when you suggest starting with a MS3 on AFM, then moving to Speed-Density. Recent threads here suggest you can run one or the other.
Thank you for the jumper bits that is fantastic. I'm sure Rev will see this at some point anyway.

I didn't mention speed density (or am i too stupid to have noticed i mentioned it in some way?) but i did say i could keep the AFM as stated in the instructions and use its IAT sensor although it also states you can splice into the AFM harness and use an open element IAT. The Emerald required a separate IAT so i have that already anyway the only reason I am considering using the AFM IAT is because its less splicing and means i can prove i haven't screwed anything up yet.
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Old 03-23-2019, 09:07 AM
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I understand now. I was kind of reading between the lines because I did not understand what you were saying.
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Old 03-23-2019, 06:16 PM
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Well given i had the open element there anyway and a knackered AFM I have just taken the AFM connector and connected it to the IAT.

I have run the vacuum line through the jonboy gromet (that was not ******* fun).
I will be working on getting the external MAP connected properly because wiring from the intake side is a damn sight easier than hose past the AC.
My right arm now looks like it has been the victim to multiple cut based attacks.

I have now found out that my serial connector is dead so i cannot setup the TPS and set base timing yet.
Amazon better ******* deliver Monday.

I'm going to write up on my build thread as I have some pictures but most of all I have some warnings for people to not make the same mistakes i do.
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