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Old 06-30-2007, 02:41 PM   #21
Ben
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yeah it's obvious now that I have some of the parts here. the 1.6 fpr's hard pipe (return pipe) is very long and L shaped. The NA 1.8 fpr's return pipe is short and straight. The 1.8 fpr will directly swap with the pulse dampener on the NB 1.8 fuel rail. Presto! Return system.

Hustler, worst case scenario is you take a cut off tool to your 1.6 fpr to shorten its return pipe. Not ideal (no bead on end of pipe) but would work if you can clamp the shiznit out of it. Wouldn't make that a long term solution, but could be OK to get your motor running if you don't have a 1.8 fpr yet.
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Old 09-04-2007, 10:15 AM   #22
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Good news.
I was just reading that 1.5 yrs ago JasonC scoped a 99 IAC valve at 500 Hz, which is apparently the same as the NA 1.8s.

An anti-flyback clamp may be necessary, depending on the output of the MS. Which is nothing more than a diode. Since it's not necessary (or already included in MS ?) with the 1.6 IAC, it's probably not going to be necessary with the 1.8 IAC.

This means I'll be able to use my 99-00 throttle body, 99-00 tps, and 99-00 IAC. F'n kewl.
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Old 09-04-2007, 11:17 AM   #23
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Good news.
I was just reading that 1.5 yrs ago JasonC scoped a 99 IAC valve at 500 Hz, which is apparently the same as the NA 1.8s.

An anti-flyback clamp may be necessary, depending on the output of the MS. Which is nothing more than a diode. Since it's not necessary (or already included in MS ?) with the 1.6 IAC, it's probably not going to be necessary with the 1.8 IAC.

This means I'll be able to use my 99-00 throttle body, 99-00 tps, and 99-00 IAC. F'n kewl.
In the Megamanual for PWM Idle control it says:

Quote:
Do not install Q20, do not install D8, and jumper R39 as well. You will also have to put a 1N4001 diode across the PWM Idle valve itself - the banded end goes to the 12 Volt supply, the non-banded end goes to the lead that goes to MegaSquirt (this diode is for flyback purposes on the idle valve).
So non PnP users (and I presume the OP) will already have this flyback circuit?

I'm sure Jerry would've included this in his PnP too is it was mentioned for the stock MS in the MegaManual?

I caught the thread on m.net that's been resurected too, interesting reading. There's a pretty cool thread on MSextra wrt Mazda Idle valves, most of it goes over my head, but the gist of it is a circuit that 'cleans' the signal from the MS so you can use higher frequencies and have better Idle resolution. i'll try to dig it out.

I've a feeling that's what the different chip the MSPnP uses does too - and why if we use the PnP settings the feq needs altering....

just thinking out loud.....
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Old 09-04-2007, 11:49 AM   #24
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i'll try to dig it out.
found it

http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?t=25731
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Old 09-05-2007, 09:27 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben View Post
yeah it's obvious now that I have some of the parts here. the 1.6 fpr's hard pipe (return pipe) is very long and L shaped. The NA 1.8 fpr's return pipe is short and straight. The 1.8 fpr will directly swap with the pulse dampener on the NB 1.8 fuel rail. Presto! Return system.

Hustler, worst case scenario is you take a cut off tool to your 1.6 fpr to shorten its return pipe. Not ideal (no bead on end of pipe) but would work if you can clamp the shiznit out of it. Wouldn't make that a long term solution, but could be OK to get your motor running if you don't have a 1.8 fpr yet.
I'm just going to snag a 1.8 NA rail and fpr from a junk yard.
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Old 09-05-2007, 08:48 PM   #26
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I'm just going to snag a 1.8 NA rail and fpr from a junk yard.
That rail won't work with the 99-00 head. Just follow the instructions in the head-swap guide I posted above. I'm pretty sure it's super-easy.

-Mike
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Old 09-05-2007, 11:15 PM   #27
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so I can or can't use a 1.6 fpr?
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Old 09-05-2007, 11:41 PM   #28
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can use the 1.6fpr but you gotta cut the hard line, it doesn't clear the head. I used my 94 FPR with no problems.

what is anyone doing with the VICs system on the 99/00 intake? Currently mine is disconnected and sits in the open position. Is it worth setting up to work with the MSPNP or would I better better off fixing it in one position or removing the butterflies completely?
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Old 09-05-2007, 11:49 PM   #29
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hustler, you need an NB rail with a 1.8NA FPR. Thought that was spelled out already.

paul, you want to run the VICS solenoid. it's easy to do; you'll need to mod your MS to use one of its extra outputs as an RPM switch. People are finding that it's worth about 8rwhp or so with a turbo, and more with a supercharger.
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Old 09-05-2007, 11:56 PM   #30
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hustler, you need an NB rail with a 1.8NA FPR. Thought that was spelled out already.

paul, you want to run the VICS solenoid. it's easy to do; you'll need to mod your MS to use one of its extra outputs as an RPM switch. People are finding that it's worth about 8rwhp or so with a turbo, and more with a supercharger.

i'll get working on it then. the motor came with a broken solenoid and even the spare one i had is broken in the same way, the nipples are broken off. the actuator is in place though. i have another 99 motor that is complete with good solenoid so i'll look into transferring that over. any write-up on it?

would those extra outputs by chance be in that middle wiring section that we are all waiting on a plug for?
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Old 09-06-2007, 12:01 AM   #31
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if your spare solenoid is also faulty, you can use an aftermarket 3 port solenoid such as the GM Typhoon boost solenoid. there are two ways of setting up the vac system, either works fine, tons of info at miata.net. you'll want to tune the activation point on a dyno, but expect it to be between 5500-5700 rpm.

yes, the best way to get the output from the MS is through the center plug. but there is always just soldering the output wire directly to the header on the daughterboard (you'll have to solder onto that pin anyway to jump out to the center plug).
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Old 09-06-2007, 12:12 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul View Post
i'll get working on it then. the motor came with a broken solenoid and even the spare one i had is broken in the same way, the nipples are broken off. the actuator is in place though. i have another 99 motor that is complete with good solenoid so i'll look into transferring that over. any write-up on it?

would those extra outputs by chance be in that middle wiring section that we are all waiting on a plug for?
I'll be really interested to hear if you have success. My 2000 motor didn't even come with a solenoid. I'm running without a vacuum line on the solenoid.

-Mike
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Old 09-06-2007, 12:14 AM   #33
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That rail won't work with the 99-00 head. Just follow the instructions in the head-swap guide I posted above. I'm pretty sure it's super-easy.

-Mike
I meant to say intake manifold, not head.

-Mike
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Old 06-06-2009, 03:16 PM   #34
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i should update this thread for people who search. I'm running COPs now with no TPS connected and these settings are perfection:
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Old 06-10-2009, 01:38 AM   #35
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Thanks man, those fixed my startup woes...almost.

For some reason I cannot change the idle duty at lower temp or idle duty at upper temp, and my values are 17 and 5 respectively. When I start my car it hesitates at ~750rpm for a second, then jumps up to 1500, and goes through the warmup fine.

What injectors are you running Hustler?
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