N/A to Boost
#1
N/A to Boost
Howdy yall
I've pulled the trigger on an FM DIY kit. Been running MS with factory 265cc injectors. I just installed a vishnu fuel rail along with 540cc Osidetiger injectors. My plan is to get the car running a little smoother with the new injectors before adding turbo.
Question: once I have the new injectors dialed in, whats the best way to extrapolate my map which has never seen MAP values greater than 100? In other words, how do I modify my map to safely predict the fuel required at boost levels? I realize it may be off a bit.. is it safe enough to slowly autotune it to perfection?
Thanks
I've pulled the trigger on an FM DIY kit. Been running MS with factory 265cc injectors. I just installed a vishnu fuel rail along with 540cc Osidetiger injectors. My plan is to get the car running a little smoother with the new injectors before adding turbo.
Question: once I have the new injectors dialed in, whats the best way to extrapolate my map which has never seen MAP values greater than 100? In other words, how do I modify my map to safely predict the fuel required at boost levels? I realize it may be off a bit.. is it safe enough to slowly autotune it to perfection?
Thanks
#4
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Farmington Hills, MI
Posts: 1,218
Total Cats: 175
I used my values from 70-100 kpa, extrapolated linearly up to 200 kpa, added 10% or so to boost areas, then was careful when using Autotune to complete the map. I was about 1-2 AFR rich everywhere before Autotune, so I feel it was a good safety margin before leaning out.
#10
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New Fucking Jersey
Posts: 3,890
Total Cats: 143
That dead time seems... ambitious.
1300 rpm isn't what I'd call stable either. I mean, if that's what the car starts off at then, yeah, awesome. But I'm hitting 800 rpm stable-ish afrs with stock NB1 injectors.
1300 rpm isn't what I'd call stable either. I mean, if that's what the car starts off at then, yeah, awesome. But I'm hitting 800 rpm stable-ish afrs with stock NB1 injectors.
#13
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New Fucking Jersey
Posts: 3,890
Total Cats: 143
I'd define stable, in this case, as being close to oem. Oem idle is not 1300. 900-1000. Sure... whatever, but at 1300, you're likely getting away with a crummy idle because it's not going to stall on its face. It's like a shortcut to 'stable' idle without tuning things out properly. Imho.
-A noob.
-A noob.
#14
Well when you add a 9lb flywheel and high amperage spal fans and still use AC, things are far from OE. I dont mean to bash your input, and I agree my base idle rpm is higher than stock. Working out a more stable, lower rpm would achieve absolutely nothing for me, except a few pennies on gas. This is also with the idle screw closed entirely, using only the IAC
But now then, lets stay on topic.
Main subject is still "best way to predict / extrapolate maps for boost"
Sub topic is "do i need to sweat the ev1 style injectors?" From what I've read, atomization is superior on newer generations but nothing to really write home about. Sure the graphics are nice, but in HP gain% what are we talking?
But now then, lets stay on topic.
Main subject is still "best way to predict / extrapolate maps for boost"
Sub topic is "do i need to sweat the ev1 style injectors?" From what I've read, atomization is superior on newer generations but nothing to really write home about. Sure the graphics are nice, but in HP gain% what are we talking?
#17
Elite Member
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: New Fucking Jersey
Posts: 3,890
Total Cats: 143
Well when you add a 9lb flywheel and high amperage spal fans and still use AC, things are far from OE. I dont mean to bash your input, and I agree my base idle rpm is higher than stock. Working out a more stable, lower rpm would achieve absolutely nothing for me, except a few pennies on gas. This is also with the idle screw closed entirely, using only the IAC
But now then, lets stay on topic.
Main subject is still "best way to predict / extrapolate maps for boost"
Sub topic is "do i need to sweat the ev1 style injectors?" From what I've read, atomization is superior on newer generations but nothing to really write home about. Sure the graphics are nice, but in HP gain% what are we talking?
But now then, lets stay on topic.
Main subject is still "best way to predict / extrapolate maps for boost"
Sub topic is "do i need to sweat the ev1 style injectors?" From what I've read, atomization is superior on newer generations but nothing to really write home about. Sure the graphics are nice, but in HP gain% what are we talking?
But, then I'd ask why you spent so much money and time on everything and skimped on injectors...
#19
Boost Czar
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,501
Total Cats: 4,080
you'd probably do best converting your map by finding a good base with boost rows, then manually copying your non-boosted rows into it. then interpolating the boosted stuff so it's a smooth rich transition.