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Hey guys, I just installed my MSPNP2 on my N/A 94' Miata. Followed everything through and through (or at least i think i did)..
Installed wideband, ran vacuum line to ecu from an unused port on the intake manifold, installed the IAT sensor, and hooked everything up.
Bought the full version of tuner studio, downloaded the 94' base map off diyautotune, set base timing, calibrated the TPS, IAT, and wideband, and i have so many issues.
First off, the car does NOT want to start, but will sometimes with a lot of throttle manipulation.. seems to be putting too much fuel in. I thought I could adjust the cranking pulse but it doesn't seem to change it. The only thing that seems to help a little is the TPS Flood option, I have it set to 50%, and can flutter the throttle and sometimes get it to start. It also hates starting when hot, which brings me to my next issue...
The car is suddenly overheating, getting up to over 200 F at idle, in 50 degree weather. Is there anyone that can look at my datalogs or help me out? Seems like I've been through every youtube video and website, and I can't seem to get the car running like it did with the stock ECU.
Well for one, in order to look at your datalogs, we would need access to them. Post your tune and a datalog of the issues your experiencing and we can go from there.
What all has been done to the car? Have you verified that the fans are working? That's was one of the first things I made sure was working and the car doesn't have to be running to confirm this.
Well for one, in order to look at your datalogs, we would need access to them. Post your tune and a datalog of the issues your experiencing and we can go from there.
What all has been done to the car? Have you verified that the fans are working? That's was one of the first things I made sure was working and the car doesn't have to be running to confirm this.
Should I start datalogging at idle (if I can get it to do that), and go for a short drive then post it?
I just checked the fans. The passenger fan turns on with the A/C as it should, but I applied 12V to the drivers side and it doesn't engage at all. Even if so, should the car really overheat within 10 minutes at idle in cold weather?
Should I start datalogging at idle (if I can get it to do that), and go for a short drive then post it?
I just checked the fans. The passenger fan turns on with the A/C as it should, but I applied 12V to the drivers side and it doesn't engage at all. Even if so, should the car really overheat within 10 minutes at idle in cold weather?
Well let's be realistic here, the heat exchanger can only work so well with no airflow. These engines tend to get hot, fast, even when it's cool out. If your fans are not working properly, things will get hot. Do you know if they worked before you swapped the ECU?
As far as the datalog is concerned, just start the log before you start the car and run it long enough to show the issues you're experiencing.
Well let's be realistic here, the heat exchanger can only work so well with no airflow. These engines tend to get hot, fast, even when it's cool out. If your fans are not working properly, things will get hot. Do you know if they worked before you swapped the ECU?
As far as the datalog is concerned, just start the log before you start the car and run it long enough to show the issues you're experiencing.
Perfect, I'll datalog hopefully before the end of the night and get the file over.
And the car never overheated before the ECU swap, which is a little confusing to me.
You can edit your previous post or make a new one. Either open up the whole Reply feature or read the text at the bottom where it says "Go Advanced". You can add it in there too.
BTW, don't forget to go pop in at the Meet and Greet area.
You can edit your previous post or make a new one. Either open up the whole Reply feature or read the text at the bottom where it says "Go Advanced". You can add it in there too.
BTW, don't forget to go pop in at the Meet and Greet area.
Says that the .mlg file isn't supported. And sure thing! I'm heading over now.
Posting your tune file would help a lot. You can only tell so much from a log without knowing what the ECU is trying to do based on the tune. Anyways, here is something you will want to check out. Right after cranking the motor over and before it fully started your PWM idle duty shot down from 50.2 to 23.5. You will need to figure out what your actual min and max values are, but on most of our miatas, this is basically moving the valve from fully open to fully closed. The car is going to have a hard time starting and idling if it's not getting enough air.
Posting your tune file would help a lot. You can only tell so much from a log without knowing what the ECU is trying to do based on the tune. Anyways, here is something you will want to check out. Right after cranking the motor over and before it fully started your PWM idle duty shot down from 50.2 to 23.5. You will need to figure out what your actual min and max values are, but on most of our miatas, this is basically moving the valve from fully open to fully closed. The car is going to have a hard time starting and idling if it's not getting enough air.
Sorry, still very new to this. I posted the tune below.
Now when you mention how far the idle duty dropped, what you would suggest trying to change exactly? I've messed with the cranking duty quite a bit, but I'm not sure if that's doing the same thing
I'm on my phone so I can't view your tune yet, but you need to do a lot more reading before you're ready for this. Undo all the changes you made because you're changing stuff that you don't understand and doesn't relate to your real problem. Better yet would be to just start over with the basemap again.
id recommend reading through this blog:
He does a pretty good job of explaining what everything does and how it effects the car's behavior. I'd start with your radiator fan so you don't overheat the engine and then go from there.
Got a chance to look at your tune. After undoing all the changes you made earlier here are things I would look into doing first. Set up sequential fuel injection, start tuning with EGO control disabled, turn on incorporate AFR target, idle at 14.7 afr assuming sequential fuel injection and pump gas, start with only open loop idle.
I highly recommend sequential fuel injection while you are screwing around with all of this stuff, much easier to add it now than later. As far as open-loop idle only, on the MS2 90% of your idle is open loop. It will only enter closed loop idle after the car stabilizes and idles on its own, in other words, the car has to idle before it can closed loop idle. So get the open-loop down, then when you are ready for that final 10% turn on closed-loop idle.
Got a chance to look at your tune. After undoing all the changes you made earlier here are things I would look into doing first. Set up sequential fuel injection, start tuning with EGO control disabled, turn on incorporate AFR target, idle at 14.7 afr assuming sequential fuel injection and pump gas, start with only open loop idle.
I highly recommend sequential fuel injection while you are screwing around with all of this stuff, much easier to add it now than later. As far as open-loop idle only, on the MS2 90% of your idle is open loop. It will only enter closed loop idle after the car stabilizes and idles on its own, in other words, the car has to idle before it can closed loop idle. So get the open-loop down, then when you are ready for that final 10% turn on closed-loop idle.
Makes a lot of sense. Now when I choose sequential injection, I see two options. Sequential siamese, and semi/sequential. I'm guessing I need to be running on the latter?
Load up the DIY base. Its not the best, but its much much better then what you have. First set up your controls, IAC valve test for your closed and open duties, timing, TPS etc. The DIY tune is obviously put together by individuals that are not experienced with IC engines. So it will need some changes first adjust the idle timing cells and adjacent cells to 12-15. Do not deviate from the tune until you get more familiar with the process, software and engine requirements. Then read, watch vids and ask specific questions here. Only make one change at a time. Your idle AFR should be 13.8-14. Learn about what an internal combustion engine requires for timing and AFR to operate at different speeds and loads.
There was a new tunerstudio update that changed the default log saving layout. Now after every log you make you have to put ".msl" to keep the older format or else it'll auto save as ".mlg". From what I'm reading it sounds like something is off on the setup, base map should definitely fire the car right up. Happened to me when I first put mine in (car wouldn't start). Ended up being that the MAP signal line was kinked when it went thru the firewall grommet. Maybe that's your case too
01-28-2020, 12:21 PM
New with MS, having some issues.
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