shooterschmidty

Hey guys, I just upgraded to gslender firmware on my DIYPNP and am having some issues that I'm hoping someone can help me out with. I rewired the AC circuit and currently have 1Q (AC switch) running to Input 1 IN, the Input 2 OUTPUT running to PE1, and WLED (12V no pullup) connected to 1J and 4S (AC relay and fan). Note, I did initial wire it wrong and had 1Q run directly to PE1 so I hope I didn't permanently damage something.

I have Idle Up turned ON and in Outport port settings have Warmup LED enabled, with a power on value of 1 and trigger value of 1 with a condition of idleupcnt> 10.

My issue is that 1) after following the instructions in gslender's mod guide, the AC no longer turns on and 2) when I turn the car OFF and remove the key, the DIYPNP stays on and the AC fan turns on.

Thoughts? Thanks for your help.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

you can stay connected the ECU with the key out of the car?

you need to change power on 0 trigger 1 for warmup LED.

shooterschmidty

Yes I can now, but couldn't before the firmware upgrade which seems...odd.

I currently have the power on 0 trigger 1 for the warmup LED, I mistyped above.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

is your ignition switch broken?

shooterschmidty

It works just fine to start the car. It seems unlikely that the ignition would break at the same time as the firmware install.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

i dont see how you can wire it to stay on...the main relay powers the MS, triggered by the IGN switch.

shooterschmidty

Good point. Maybe my switch is dying. Any ideas on why the AC won't turn on? It worked just fine when I had it wired per standard DIYPNP instructions.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

id go back through your wiring and make sure you did it correctly, what you're saying is happening sounds like something is crossed/wrong.

shooterschmidty

Yea I think you're right. Is my general plan correct? Run the AC button into and out of either INPUT 1 or 2 and then to PE1. Hook the AC fan and compressor to WLED with no other modification required? Thanks.

shooterschmidty

I just pulled out the multimeter and got some more observables.

AC OFF:
Input 1 in (1Q) 12V (I expected this to be 0 when off)
Input 1 out 4.78 V
PE1 4.8 V
WLED (going to 1J and 4S) 13 V

AC ON:
Input 1 in 1.2V
Input 1 out 0 V
PE1 0 V
WLED 12.6 V

There are a couple of interesting things here:
1. The input voltage was exactly opposite of what I expected. I expected "on" to be 12 V and off to be 0 V. Is this correct?
2. My output doesn't seem to be working. I tried different permutations and even other condition output channels (MAT to be specific) and wasn't able to get WLED to change states, same with ALED.
3. It seems that the in this config the voltage seen at the AC compressor and fan relays would be ~12 V whereas the standard DIYPNP config would deliver ~5 V. Is this a problem?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

there will be 12v on the a/c switch input when off. otherwise, how will the ECU know it went to ground if it starts at ground?

the issue is WLED staying at 12v when it should send the output to ground.


Have you tried using status4 instead of idleupcount?
Are you sure you dont have WLED set somewhere else on your MSQ to perform a function?

shooterschmidty

I just tried status 4 instead of idleupcount. I also duplicated the output settings that I use for my radiator fan (which I know works) on both WLED and ALED and then confirmed with my multimeter that both outputs were still 12 V.

I'm pretty sure that WLED isn't used anywhere else and I know that there wasn't anything wired to WLED before I made the mods. I attached my msq for reference.

shooterschmidty

Is there any way to directly status an input or force an output state change via tunerstudio? I'm running out of ideas to troubleshoot thus thing.

shooterschmidty

I got it figured out. The answer was so obvious as to be embarrassing but I'll share in the spirit of mutual learning. I had my output to the AC compressor wired to WLED, which is actually the pullup for WLED whereas the output itself is labeled WLD. I fixed the wiring and it fired right up. Now I just need to work on the tuning itself.