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Old 05-03-2009, 06:23 PM   #1
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Question PLEASE help with LM Programer

I have been trying to get a cheap A/F gauge to read correctly from my LC-1 yellow wire by re programming the output using LM Programer.

Please tell me what I am doing wrong.

I get LM Programer to connect to one of the ports ( not easy )

I'm told that I need to make 0 Volt equal 20:1 AFR and 1 volt equal 10:1 AFR

Is that correct ?

I clicked on the no 1 output tab in LM programer and then checked AFR instead of Lamda.
Now no matter waht number I put in the boxes. The message that comes up reads AFR must be between 860.05- 2619.71 and bigger than the lower AFR limit.
I'm not getting it

Thanks
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Old 05-03-2009, 10:10 PM   #2
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Select AFR first, and then enter the values.
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Old 05-03-2009, 10:32 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
Select AFR first, and then enter the values.
You mean before using the input tab

This link shows the screen for the 0 -5V screen to help show what I am trying to explain. Google Image Result for http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/images/Xcal2_five.jpg

thanks guys !
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:33 AM   #4
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No, before you enter the values you want it to use select "use-air-fuel ratio".
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:54 AM   #5
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Yes, that is the same way I did it....
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Old 05-04-2009, 11:26 AM   #6
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When I click on AFR and the screen switches over from Labmda the numers read: 1.099 volt = AFR 1647.86 and .03 volt = AFR 1756.22

That makes no sense to me and wen I try to change it I get the message above.

Thanks
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Old 05-04-2009, 12:50 PM   #7
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Uninstall and reinstall the APP.
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Old 05-04-2009, 07:28 PM   #8
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For some reason I had to go back and check "gasoline" as fuel.

Don't know why/how it unchecked itself,

Regardless the gauge still reads fubar and now even Log works reads wrong.

I'm told I have to do a free air cal again.
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:07 PM   #9
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Yea you do.

Just get on the highway, rev to 5k rpm in third and coast until you get to like 3 seconds before the fuel kicks back in.

Bam recalibrated and you dont even have to jack the car up.
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Old 05-04-2009, 10:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
Yea you do.

Just get on the highway, rev to 5k rpm in third and coast until you get to like 3 seconds before the fuel kicks back in.

Bam recalibrated and you dont even have to jack the car up.

Thanks. Will try again
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Old 05-04-2009, 11:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
Yea you do.

Just get on the highway, rev to 5k rpm in third and coast until you get to like 3 seconds before the fuel kicks back in.

Bam recalibrated and you dont even have to jack the car up.
wtf...never heard of this, does it really work?

I tried to coast it down from 70mph once (ignition off) and do a quick recal on the side of the road after first installing and having heater cal problems. It didn't like me too much after that. I got back under the car the next day.
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Old 05-05-2009, 08:35 AM   #12
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I know this is a stupid question but right now it would not surprise me if I had this wrong -

Do I need to make 0V equal to 20:1 AFR and 1V equal 10:1 AFR or is it 0v equal 10:1and 1v equal 20:1 ???

Thanks!
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:40 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gospeed81 View Post
wtf...never heard of this, does it really work?

I tried to coast it down from 70mph once (ignition off) and do a quick recal on the side of the road after first installing and having heater cal problems. It didn't like me too much after that. I got back under the car the next day.
If it didnt work, why would I suggest it?

Heater calibration issues is strange, especially since it only performs heater calibrations if it loses connectivity to the sensor while powered. I have never had heater calibration issues from performing free air calibrations like i mentioned.
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Old 05-05-2009, 10:41 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poobs View Post
i know this is a stupid question but right now it would not surprise me if i had this wrong -

do i need to make 0v equal to 20:1 afr and 1v equal 10:1 afr or is it 0v equal 10:1and 1v equal 20:1 ???

Thanks!
For what? Megasquirt?

0v-5v
10-20 afr

Last edited by Saml01; 05-05-2009 at 10:54 AM.
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:09 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saml01 View Post
For what? Megasquirt?

0v-5v
10-20 afr

Yes, I have a MS but the settimgs are in LM Programer
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Old 05-05-2009, 12:59 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by gospeed81 View Post
wtf...never heard of this, does it really work?

absolutely not. just because the ecu cut fuel, doesn't mean the exhaust doesn't have traces of fuel left in it. It also calibrates for more than a few moments.....
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Old 05-05-2009, 01:53 PM   #17
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I've been using a modified version of that method that seems to work well. It requires that the LC1 be on a circuit that is hot in the ACC position.

I go onto a back road and get the engine up to about 5,000 RPM in second gear. Then I release the throttle and wait for the fuel cutoff. After the fuel cuts, I switch the engine off (leaving the key in ACC so the LC1 remains energized) and floor the throttle. I then allow the car to coast for several seconds, pumping fresh air through the exhaust. While still holding the throttle open I initiate a calibration. Once the cal is finished, I release the throttle and (if the car is still moving) switch the power back on.
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:03 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
absolutely not. just because the ecu cut fuel, doesn't mean the exhaust doesn't have traces of fuel left in it. It also calibrates for more than a few moments.....
That's what I thought.

I've also never had a heater calibration work for **** without actually having the sensor out of the exhaust...maybe I need a bigger grounding wire.
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:06 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
I've been using a modified version of that method that seems to work well. It requires that the LC1 be on a circuit that is hot in the ACC position.

I go onto a back road and get the engine up to about 5,000 RPM in second gear. Then I release the throttle and wait for the fuel cutoff. After the fuel cuts, I switch the engine off (leaving the key in ACC so the LC1 remains energized) and floor the throttle. I then allow the car to coast for several seconds, pumping fresh air through the exhaust. While still holding the throttle open I initiate a calibration. Once the cal is finished, I release the throttle and (if the car is still moving) switch the power back on.
Wow, that's pretty cool. If you guys say it's good I'll try it since I've got about 0.8AFR discrepancy between gauge and MS right now.

I didn't want to screw with it since my warm up times are finally sub 30sec, but I'd like to reprogram with LM to make sure things are right and recal.

Learn something every day...thanks Sam and Joe
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Old 05-05-2009, 02:30 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
absolutely not. just because the ecu cut fuel, doesn't mean the exhaust doesn't have traces of fuel left in it. It also calibrates for more than a few moments.....
Sorry papi, youre wrong. It works, I have done it numerous times, and its ***** on accurate weather i do it in free air or with my method. I know where my AFR's are supposed to be, and I know when they are off.
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