Please Help me Figure out why I'm Getting Resets! - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 01-26-2009, 07:13 PM   #21
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ah guess i cant read...so it's a new issue. i don't see anything odd on the board.

I had something simliar happen to mine, where I didn't plug the db37 in all the way and shorted a circuit. I had a pair of injectors lock open as the transistor on the circuit failed. took me a long while to figure it out, it may be what your looking at if this is a new thing...

any change you can log it trying to crank and idle?
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Old 01-26-2009, 07:16 PM   #22
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yes I have to go to class now... On my way back im going to borrow a friends MS PNP and pop it in. If everything is solved I may just drop the $700 and be done with it...
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Old 01-26-2009, 07:18 PM   #23
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When it resets that tach drops off and the car lurches real bad almost making my Girlfriend hit her head on that dash.
You're ignoring the obvious here- your Miata thinks you're spending too much time/money on your girlfriend and not enough on upgrades. It's trying to kill her off to get more of your attention.
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Old 01-26-2009, 08:22 PM   #24
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This is sounding suspiciously more and more like my issues but more severe. My MS started only running 2 cyls one day on my way to class, had to pull over and pop the stock ECU back in, ran like a champ after I did that.

I see something hazy like excess flux around your DB9 connector. The troubleshooting section of the megamanual says that excess flux absorbing moisture causes most of these weird unexplainable issues.

My resets are getting progressively worse. Just took the car for a spin around the block after not driving for 3 days, got 12 resets in like 5 mins AFTER warmup.
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Old 01-26-2009, 11:12 PM   #25
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The only update i have is that it is in fact somewhere within the MS or the boomslang. I popped in my buddies MS PnP and no more miss firing. I didn't get to drive the car and see if the resets went away but I'm willing to bet they have... I need to flash my fuel and timing maps onto his pnp before i can drive and stupid me forgot the get his pnp serial cable.
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:12 AM   #26
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What's the best way to clean flux off my board? Rubbing alchohol and a tooth brush? Just give the board a gentle scrubbing?
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Old 01-27-2009, 12:01 PM   #27
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What's the best way to clean flux off my board? Rubbing alchohol and a tooth brush? Just give the board a gentle scrubbing?
That should work very well.
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Old 01-27-2009, 02:37 PM   #28
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That should work very well.
Dont forget to mention it needs to be 90+% alcohol. Anything lower doesn't even phase it. Paint thinner also works... and gasoline I hear.
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:02 PM   #29
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Dont forget to mention it needs to be 90+% alcohol. Anything lower doesn't even phase it. Paint thinner also works... and gasoline I hear.
Vodka worked wonders for me. Board is flux free...
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Old 01-27-2009, 04:34 PM   #30
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Ok defluxed the board. Going to test it. I doubt that helped so what is the next step? I took apart the adaptor harnes and everything seems fine. I also studied the MS board fr bridged soldier and nothing. Is there a circuit for the 2+4 injectors that i can test? Also the is zero resistance between those two transistors and the heatsink...
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Old 01-27-2009, 04:38 PM   #31
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Did you use a meter to check the TIP125's for resistance against the case? Or just visibly observe that the mica insulators are in place. Please, be more vague.
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Old 01-27-2009, 04:41 PM   #32
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The one for boost control doesn't have any continuity between it and the case. However it does have about 450ohm or so of resistance when checked against the heastsink.
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Old 01-27-2009, 10:45 PM   #33
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Ok here is full updated list of what i tried:
Added ecu grounds and cleaned grounds on engine
Cleaned grounds at battery and added an extra
New spark Plugs gapped to .020
Switched from cops back to stock ignition setup to eliminate maybe a bad cop or harness
Switched CAS with a known working one
Switched to the 270ohm ignition resistors
Defluxed board with 92% isoproyl twice
Reflowed both db37 & bd9 Connector soldier joints
Completely removed EBC circuit
Tried low-res firmware
Checked standalone adapter harness from breaks or shorts
Made sure transisters had zero resistance to heat sink
Made sure others weren't grounding out
Triple checked for bridged soldier
Switched back to cops
Resoldiered ebc circuit back in (working same as before)

Initial problems is still occurring. Hard resets at approx. 4.5-5.5 rpm.
I fixed the missfiring by cleaning the board, but the problem that i started with is still there. WTF do i do know?!?!?!?
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Old 01-27-2009, 10:56 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeRiv87 View Post
Ok here is full updated list of what i tried:
Added ecu grounds and cleaned grounds on engine
Cleaned grounds at battery and added an extra
New spark Plugs gapped to .020
Switched from cops back to stock ignition setup to eliminate maybe a bad cop or harness
Switched CAS with a known working one
Switched to the 270ohm ignition resistors
Defluxed board with 92% isoproyl twice
Reflowed both db37 & bd9 Connector soldier joints
Completely removed EBC circuit
Tried low-res firmware
Checked standalone adapter harness from breaks or shorts
Made sure transisters had zero resistance to heat sink
Made sure others weren't grounding out
Triple checked for bridged soldier
Switched back to cops
Resoldiered ebc circuit back in (working same as before)

Initial problems is still occurring. Hard resets at approx. 4.5-5.5 rpm.
I fixed the missfiring by cleaning the board, but the problem that i started with is still there. WTF do i do know?!?!?!?
They should have infinite resistance, not zero resistance. The Megamanual tells you the specs to check them against with your meter. If you've read it. It's like 50 or 60 Mega ohms. A lot. I have a strange feeling you still haven't checked them right...
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Old 01-27-2009, 10:56 PM   #35
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Glad to see cleaning the flux did something since I mentioned it like a broken record...

So is this plugging into your stock ECU connectors through a 64pin tyco connector? If so, you may consider working something out so that you can run 2 dedicated 16g or larger grounds straight through the firewall to the round point on the intake mani.

Perhaps I missed this from earlier, are you using an LC1? Could something in the wiring with this be suspect?

I have even noticed resets when plugged into my stim...do you have a stim to play with things?
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Old 01-27-2009, 11:02 PM   #36
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I have a strange feeling you still haven't checked them right..
Care to point me in the right direction? I cant seem to find it in the megamanual...


So is this plugging into your stock ECU connectors through a 64pin tyco connector? If so, you may consider working something out so that you can run 2 dedicated 16g or larger grounds straight through the firewall to the round point on the intake mani.

I guess i will have to try that next...

Perhaps I missed this from earlier, are you using an LC1? Could something in the wiring with this be suspect?

Lc1 Wired in the engine harness... Ill give it all a check

I have even noticed resets when plugged into my stim...do you have a stim to play with things?

No Stim Sorry

Hmmm mega manual mentions something about a bad power source as well. I remember kinda ghetto rigging the 1.6L Alt Power wire to fit the 1.8L ALT I'm now using. I think ill start there tomorrow...
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Old 01-29-2009, 05:14 PM   #37
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Repaired ALT still getting resets. I was playing around in a datalog I took and notice that the graph for "porta" is a solid steady line then start to go crazy only just before and just after a resets. What does "porta" mean?
Here is a datalog with a reset that i just took. Im using an lc1 0-5v if ur interested in seeing that. Let me know what you think.
Thanks for the help guys. I think where getting closer.

RapidShare: Easy Filehosting
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Old 01-29-2009, 05:21 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wayne_curr View Post
Vodka worked wonders for me. Board is flux free...
Thats nice, but what did you clean the flux off with?

-------
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeRiv87 View Post

I have even noticed resets when plugged into my stim...do you have a stim to play with things?

No Stim Sorry.

Mike, if you want to borrow my Stim you let me know.
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Old 01-29-2009, 05:27 PM   #39
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Quote:
Install Q9 and Q12 {TIP125TU-ND}. Bend the leads to fit in the holes so that the hole in the tab lines up with the hole in the heat sink. These transistors mount to the heat sink, but they MUST have an insulator between the transistors and the heat sink. Use the insulator kits for this {4724K-ND}. You may have to trim the mica insulator somewhat to avoid hitting the transistor leads - use a sharp pair of scissors. Use heat transfer compound between the component, mica insulator, and the heat sink.



After assembly, check that you have very high resistance between the metal tab of both Q9 and Q12 and the heat sink. If you get less than about 60K Ohms ( 20K Ohms) resistance, you MUST correct it. Usually chamfering the bolt hole and sanding the heat sink lightly will solve the problem. Once you have ~60K Ohms or more resistance between the tab and heat sink, solder the leads to the PCB.


http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm
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Old 01-29-2009, 05:34 PM   #40
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On porta,b,c,d: https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t25662/#post304658


If no insulator were installed on q9 and q12, it wouldn't boot up. You can simply pull those transistors, they has no use with the hi-res code.


can you post your msq, it looks like it's running ok now besides that reset.
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