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Old 02-04-2017, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
...since you have 'Run Valve Before Start' set to 'On', you should be able to hear the 512Hz buzz KOEO.
Is that the preferred setting?

Is there a way in the log to see where the Idle Valve is actually set at? When I did the idle valve test the last time, when it wouldn't idle on its own, the right hand gauge, Idle PWM% increased as I increased the steps, but the rpms didn't change. It even looks like it's stepping up in the log file.

Also, if the valve was set to where it was supposed to be, I have 23% right now, wouldn't it idle at 950 or so if something had gone awry? Or, if it had failed, wouldn't it idle at 750 since I had set the air screw for her to do that when fully warmed up with the idle valve disconnected?

Let's say it is the valve. Does that mean the valve itself not robust enough to go through these tests more than a couple of times?

It's too damned cold today to be working outside on the car. I'm looking for things that will advance the cause here in the house.

Thanks much,

Last edited by poormxdad; 02-04-2017 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 02-04-2017, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by poormxdad
Is that the preferred setting?

Is there a way in the log to see where the Idle Valve is actually set at? When I did the idle valve test the last time, when it wouldn't idle on its own, the right hand gauge, Idle PWM% increased as I increased the steps, but the rpms didn't change. It even looks like it's stepping up in the log file.

Also, if the valve was set to where it was supposed to be, I have 23% right now, wouldn't it idle at 950 or so if something had gone awry? Or, if it had failed, wouldn't it idle at 750 since I had set the air screw for her to do that when fully warmed up with the idle valve disconnected?

It's too damned cold today to be working outside on the car. I'm looking for things that will advance the cause here in the house.

Thanks much,
MegalogViewer: PWM Idle Duty is the control signal. There is no measured position feedback. The feedback is the idle... more air = higher RPM as long as the AFR does not tank.

512Hz is preferred frequency setting. On of Off, I don't know. I have mine OFF. But for your troubleshooting, ON is good. I do not know what is preferred. Rev sets base maps to ON, I have found OFF works fine, so I use it, and then I don't have to hear the thing when I have KOEO.

I don't understand your questions.

There is no need to over-think this when there is a straightforward way to troubleshoot. We have already pretty much established that your IAC Valve is not affecting idle correctly, and therefore is not physically opening, or the orifice is blocked.
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Old 02-04-2017, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
There is no need to over-think this when there is a straightforward way to troubleshoot. We have already pretty much established that your IAC Valve is not affecting idle correctly, and therefore is not physically opening, or the orifice is blocked.
I overthink everything,

I suppose I'm searching for anything to try BEFORE removing and replacing the TB assembly. What about removing the air screw and cleaning in there?

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Old 02-04-2017, 05:28 PM
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Something weird is wrong.

I tried to clean the air screw region. No change, so I swapped in the other throttle body assembly. No real change, but I figured it would need some calibration. I calibrated the TPS, then let it warm up. Now, she idles at 1500-1600 rpm, closed loop, open loop, it doesn't matter. When the fan comes on, it bumps up another hundred rpm. The idle target curve shows the right temp, but not at the right rpm. It's like she thinks she's idling at 950. WTF?

I shut her down and disconnected the battery for a few minutes. I reconnected and started her up. She was (seemingly) cold idling at about 3400 rpm. I fanned the throttle a few times and now she's idling at about 1700.

She hates me sometimes.
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Old 02-04-2017, 05:46 PM
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What's the idle DC? Min/max? You're probably at the min. I like to have mine idle at 25ish % when warm. Adjust with your bypass screw then adjust the min/max accordingly.
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Old 02-05-2017, 08:44 AM
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I've been comparing an old tune (1.2.0 Fiirmware) with the current tune. I've obviously changed the injector size, dead time, required fuel and a few other big things. One thing I did notice. Under Closed Loop Idle Settings, the Close Delay in the old tune was set at 0, disabling the setting. The current tune has a value of 1, which I assume is in seconds. That also enables Shift Settings. Which is the preferred setting? Could this cause anything unusual?

The old tune also has the Output Port as Idle, rather than Fidle with the current tune.

I'm starting to get worried.

Last edited by poormxdad; 02-05-2017 at 10:17 AM.
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Old 02-05-2017, 01:50 PM
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I checked the idle with the idle valve disconnected once she was warmed up. It's right around 750. When I did the Idle Valve Test, at 0% she was running about 750, At 19, I was reading 800 rpm, 23 850, 30 1000, 32 1350, etc., etc. At a setting of 54, she was doing 3300 rpm and I assume she would just keep increasing in rpm as I increased the valve setting. I stopped at 54. These numbers are very diferent than the other TB and valve. With the valve connected, I could not get the idle down below about 1600 until I turned Closed Loop Tuning Mode to Basic. At least things seem to be moving in the right direction. I need to tune the PID numbers.
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Old 02-05-2017, 02:51 PM
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Now we're getting somewhere.

You need to go on below 19 to find the true minimum at which the idle gets back to the 750 RPM. Then go to "Closed-Loop Idle Settings" and put that number in Idle Valve Minimum Duty(%)". Then put 60 in the Maximum.

EDIT: This assumes you used your target idle Spark Advance when you set your screw and IAC test. I recommend 10*. This is because the two interact.

Last edited by DNMakinson; 02-05-2017 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 02-05-2017, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
You need to go on below 19 to find the true minimum at which the idle gets back to the 750 RPM. Then go to "Closed-Loop Idle Settings" and put that number in Idle Valve Minimum Duty(%)". Then put 60 in the Maximum.

EDIT: This assumes you used your target idle Spark Advance when you set your screw and IAC test. I recommend 10*. This is because the two interact.
I checked it again. Below 19 there's no real change. I'd say she's oscillating around 770 rpms below 19. Above that, things change very fast.

I did set Idle advance at 10, with the lowest load cells at 13.
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Old 02-07-2017, 05:07 PM
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Gents,

I'm still here scratching my noggin', but I think I fixed the IAC problem. Woooohoooo.

I set VEAL up to NOT correct the table below 45 kPa. It pulls fuel even at 55 kPa. This is happening in the 3700 to 5000 rpm range. I'm driving in a 55 mph area, trying to hold my speed in traffic using Fourth or Fifth gear. I can hear the recirc valve chuffing. I assume that's somewhere in between open and closed. Even though I'm using "Include AFRTarget", I saw AFRs climb into the 17s. I'm completely stumped.

Thanks,
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Old 02-07-2017, 07:16 PM
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PMD, read a little more about what Include AFRTarget does. It alters the fueling equation, but does not affect how VEAL does it's job. Include or not, VEAL should be driving the AFR to the target values for each cell.

Please post your latest tune and a log showing VEAL pulling fuel as you are driving steadily.

Also, was IAC a bad valve, or something else?
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Old 02-07-2017, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
Also, was IAC a bad valve, or something else?
Jeez, I really don't know. I would have to swap the TBs under the current tune, but the percentage setting was very different between the two IACs. I'm going to say 50/50 chance it was my fault, so I don't plan to check it and tweak settings.
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Old 02-07-2017, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
PMD, read a little more about what Include AFRTarget does. It alters the fueling equation, but does not affect how VEAL does it's job. Include or not, VEAL should be driving the AFR to the target values for each cell.

Please post your latest tune and a log showing VEAL pulling fuel as you are driving steadily.
I ended up locking several cells in the offending area, but was still having problems with a few cells to the left, and a few cells above. I think I'll need dyno time.

I'm also having problems with lean AFRs after she's shut down for a few minutes to run an errand. It happened with the old tune, but would clear quickly. The AFRs stay lean too long now.

Thanks,
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Old 02-07-2017, 08:59 PM
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PMD, this is what I see:

I cannot see what VEAL is trying to do, but I did run VE Analyze (in MLV) on the above tune and log.
Settings and results shown below. I would suggest you run a VE Analyze as a rough starting point and then VEAL.





Back to the log:
I see high AFR in a couple of places. When you accelerate, which is normal as you are running no EAE. Your TPS Accel comes in a little bit. BUT VEAL does not tune transients, so we can ignore those.

Then, at 358 seconds on the log, you are getting some awful junk. Over my head. Spark blow-out??? However, that is at high kPa, not the area where you are concerned (55kPa).

I don't see anything wrong with the general tuning areas. Just need more work. The area where you are concerned about pulling fuel looks to me like it needs fuel pulled there. Look at 1303 seconds, for instance. Beautiful.

I suggest that you save your tune, then close TS, and re-open it. That will erase all the memory in the cells so that when you continue to tune, you can see what new changes are taking place.

Lastly, where are you located? Put your location in your profile so it shows under your name.
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Old 02-07-2017, 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by DNMakinson
PMD, this is what I see:

I cannot see what VEAL is trying to do, but I did run VE Analyze (in MLV) on the above tune and log.
Settings and results shown below. I would suggest you run a VE Analyze as a rough starting point and then VEAL.




Holy ****! You can do that?
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Old 02-07-2017, 09:28 PM
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Sooooooooooooooo, I drive around logging. The more driving the better. Then, I let MLV make weighted changes AFTERWARDS, based on my AFR table??? I assume this couldn't work unless I had "Include AFRTarget" selected. Frickin' brilliant. I do this a whole shitload of times and voila, she's frickin' tuned. Seems too good to be true as I type that out.
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Old 02-07-2017, 09:45 PM
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My initial joyfication has passed, and I took a few minutes to look at the MLV modified table.

At 5800 rpm and 55 kPa, MLV wants to put 44 percent in the cell, even though at 2900 rpm and 55 kPA, it puts 81.7 in the cell. That is the problem I was referring to. The AFR table even has a richer AFR at the higher rpm, but the software wants about half the fuel at twice the rpm? Something is not right.
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Old 02-07-2017, 10:21 PM
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I ask you again to increase your understanding of "Include AFR".

You may have a valid point that it looks strange to have lower VE at those points. However, your log does show you are running rich there, so VE Analyze is correct to want to pull fuel, based on the data supplied.

This may be all I have left to offer. I have no experience with centrifugal SC. That may be a normal VE table. You have to believe your WB or not.
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Old 02-08-2017, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by poormxdad
My initial joyfication has passed, and I took a few minutes to look at the MLV modified table.

At 5800 rpm and 55 kPa, MLV wants to put 44 percent in the cell, even though at 2900 rpm and 55 kPA, it puts 81.7 in the cell. That is the problem I was referring to. The AFR table even has a richer AFR at the higher rpm, but the software wants about half the fuel at twice the rpm? Something is not right.
Almost every miata I've tuned has a lean column/valley at ~5K in vacuum. It's also interpolating with the 95-100% cells nearby...

go into 3D view and get rid of the sudden peaks and valleys in numbers where you aren't tuning.
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Old 02-14-2017, 10:03 AM
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I haven't had much opportunity to mess with the Miata. Last thing I did was try to tune the "I" in the PID settings. I followed the Mega Miata instructions and zeroed out the "P" and "D" values. No value for I seemed to make any difference. I got all the way up to 200 and no change. Recall I have replaced the complete throttle body assembly (with idle valve) with a used unit. I decided to try Open Loop Idle. In OL she idles full warm at about 750. With the other throttle body I got about 950.

Are those two things related--no real affect changing the "I" setting in CL, and the low idle rpm in OL? Should I redo the air screw and start over?

Thanks,
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