I know there are many proven methods for the CLT for megasquirt, but I thought this might work...

http://trailtech.net/vapor_vector_te...e_sensors.html

One of my (many) projects is converting my 1978 Kawasaki KZ650 into a mild streetfighter, and I'm thinking about using this "vapor" system to replace the gauge cluster....they have a bunch of different sensors/adapters for bikes and ATVs...maybe some of it might work w/ the miatas


just a thought...

 

perfect for the heater core lines.

 

Where was this a month ago, damn

 

sorry to revive this thread it seems like the best place to ask these questions.

1) Does anyone know what threads are on the water port on the side of the block (next to the oil port)? I think they are m10x1.5 like the oil port.

2) Is there any reason nobody has put a coolant sensor in that location?

It seems like it would be pretty easy to make any adapter to plug their M6 probe into the side of the block for my MS CLT. I still haven't had any luck getting good readings from the stock sensor on the MS and it's gotten to the point where I have to come up with a more permanent solution than the ghetto one I have.

 

What kinda problem are you having dude? Does your temp still peg out at 215? Getting a very large differential between AIT and CLT?

 

No joke. Much better than the relatively huge blob of brass I built from standard fittings that I could not fit it at the heater core hoses. This is much more compact. I'm thinking about this one. I would have to figure out though if the sending element will work with my existing dash mount coolant gauge.

 

yup... it reads damn near perfect at lower temps, but once it get's over 50*F the differential get's bigger and bigger. when the gauge reads 180* (autometer) the MS has been pegged at 215* for a while.

 

Made from a piece of scrap aluminum, a saw, and a drill press. (this was before I had the lathe)

 

Thats really weird dude.

I don't know what "actual" temp mine pegs at. I just know the car runs fine. But now you got me curious as well.

Heres a question, at what temperature does the stock temp gauge start to rise?

If I had some way of using my GM CLT, I would use that instead of the factory sender.

Btw, which of the two senders on the back of the head is the MS using, the one with two wires in it at the neck or 1 wire in it just below it?

 

The single wire sensor should be for the gauge i think, the other is for the ECU. I don't know though, seems right. Most gauges use single wire sensors.

 

That's correct.

On a 1.6, The blue/white wire is the signal line (from the ECU) and the black/green wire is a dedicated ground which goes to ground point JC-02, which is under the dash on the passenger's side. Seems like a hell of an odd thing to do...

On a 1.8 NA, the ground is a black/blue wire, which returns to the ECU as opposed to an external ground point. The NB's use red/blue for the signal wire, and black/red for the ground, which goes back to the ECU.

 

stock gauge doesn't do ****... I disconnected it because I was tired of having a dummy light.

The autometer starts moving at around 150 and sits pretty a hair over 180 (thermostat temp).

I need to figure out this issue though because I need to plumb the fans to the MS soon before summer to take advantage of the lower TS.

 

Certainly interesting idea.

I'll have a look on my spare engine to see if there's enough room to put a CLT sensor in without fouling on anything down there

 

Just been out and checked and it's an M12x1.25 thread and the holes about an inch deep.

If you can get something to fit it then it's a definite possibility to put a CLT in there I think - just needs to be shielded from the turbo manifold a bit but other than that should be ok I'd think

 

thanks for checking that... my spare block is from a '97 so it doesn't have the port on it to check.

I think I'll order their M6 sensor and once it shows up I'll measure it to determine the height of the M12 to M6 adapter.

 

So, A brief update... I ordered one of those sensors like I said. They supplied me with a temp/resistance table, and dimensions upon request. They did request that I not share the table on any forums as it is proprietary. Once I've got it up and running I will ask their permission to post 3 values best suited for easytherm instead of the whole table.

I'll edit this in a few minutes to include a model of the adapter I'll have made this week.

*edit* added image, once I test this out I might be able to offer these at a fair price for those interested.