I'm at step 53 (map sensor) and everything has tested fine so far, I just had a couple quick questions:

1. I skipped step 22 for the stepper IAC and the VR circuit, no problem, right?

2. Looks like I might have to go back by DIY to pick up the extra part for the IAC, I don't think I got it when I picked up my kit. I do need this mod kit, right? http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/p...kit-p-134.html

3. When should I load squirt-n-spark? Right now I am testing with the MS-1 code variant.

4. Is everyone running easytherm instead of the GM coolant temp sensor? I have the sensor (picked up on ebay) but don't know where a good place to tie it into the flow would be. Using the GM sensor would negate the need for easy therm?

I've attached a pic of my board too...

Many thanks!

-scott

 

It is looking good so far.
1.Yes skip step 22
2. Yes you need to go back and order that mod kit. It is very east to install once you get it in.
3. I loaded squirt-n-spark after I was done building everything.
4. I am running easytherm setting with the mazda clt. If you use the gm clt sensor you do not need to change anything with easytherm.

 

My local radioshack has the tip120/122 or whatever as well as the n1 .... whatever diode in stock and they are cheap. Might save you some time and money.

 

Thanks guys. I'll have to check radio shaft, it would save me the drive down to DIY during lunch...

 

New questions:

5. I was looking at cjernigan's board in this thread:

https://www.miataturbo.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7735

and I was wondering if this is where everyone mounted their tip120/122? I guess we don't need Q16 (what is supposed to go in that spot)?

6. I'm at step 65 and I can't quite figure out what I'm supposed to do here? It says to go to the MSnS-E site for instructions on wiring the high current circuit. I went there but can't seem to figure out what I'm supposed to do. I'm probably just not looking in the right spot.

7. Step 69, yes or no on the PWM flyback damping circuit? It looks like cjernigan installed it.

8. How did you attach R37 and R38 to the heat sink?

Sorry for all the q's, I'm sure I have just overlooked the answers in other threads on this site.

-Scott

 

5. You don't need Q16, and can stick the TIP120 there, with the leads wired to the board. Or you can mount it to a hole drilled in the case - that's usually how we do this on assembled units that have Q16 installed.

6. Don't use the high current driver. Use our ignition mod guide instead.

7. Might as well put it in; this is not needed with stock injectors but can give you more options later.

8. If yours did not come with through bolts (there are several different styles out there), use the strips of double sided heat sink tape.

 

I mounted mine in the Proto area as so...

 

 

thats so pretty, who did that?

 

why sir i believe you did!

 

you guys are too funny.

 

OK, I have everything done except the LED's and the miata mods. I'm going to install the LED's and make sure the thing works with the stim before doing the miata mods.

Looking at images of everyone else's boards, it looks like no one has Q6 and Q8 installed (over by LED's). Why aren't these installed? I would guess it has to do with the ignition mods for the miata, but I don't see it documented to remove these anywhere?

 

They apperantly lower the voltage too much to fire the coil if you leave them in...

 

I've had no problem leaving them in... though others have had to remove them. Basically there are two ways to mod the boards now, our way and Kag's way-- do one or the other, not mixing the two....

 

Finally, I have the squirt together, but I haven't done the miata specific mods yet.

I hooked it up to the stim and the computer and pretty much everything seems to be working as they should. I did have a couple questions regarding the led's on the stim:

1. The IG one isn't lighting up, but I don't have the ignition mods done yet, so I'm not too worried about that.

2. The I1 led flashes, faster as the rpms go up. The I2 led seems to be on steady, it doesn't flash. Is this normal or should it be flashing alternately with I1?

 

I don't know much about the actual stim operation but as long as it is working in megatune and you can adjust your values under realtime tuning then it should be good to go. Once you do the miata mods the LEDs don't work anymore anyway so i never really paid much attention to them.
Sorry if this sounds a bit ignorant about that much of it.