Radiator fan always on - driver side
 

The fan is running whenever the ignition is in the ON position. My 95 is running a DIYPNP 2, wired as Brain advised:

2.2k resistor on R14
WLED --> 1L (radiator fan)
Input 1 IN --> 1Q (A/C switch)
Input 1 OUT --> PE1
ALED --> 1J, 4S
Input 2 IN --> 1V
Input 2 OUT --> FLEX
PA0 --> BOOST IN
BOOST OUT --> DB pin 15

Neither RELAY 1 or RELAY 2 is in use.

I'm assuming the issue has to do with the WLED setting. I took a screenshot of TunerStudio.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1447471073

What numbers are normally here? These were the defaults on the basemap.

settings looks correct.

what happens if you reverse on and active?

Same result.

I've noticed the car seems to take forever to heat up. Would that have anything to do with it?

did you calibrate the AIT and CLT ?

Yes, according to these instructions. Thanks for helping me troubleshoot.

To clarify, the problem still persists.

Probably a stupid question, but is the AC on?

Nope. Never hurts to guess. While we're speculating...could it be a bad thermostat?

No. The ms is controlling the fan.

What is your clt temp in tuner studio.

I happened to take a screencast earlier today while my car was idling for a question I had in another thread. The temp read 45° F from a cold start and was slowly creeping up.

Here is my basemap if that helps. Attachment 155029

Any other places to check? The A/C idle up doesn't seem to be responding either. Not sure if that's related.

Did you make sure the relay is working? Stuck open?
I tested that the small terminals had 12v so the relay was being sent a signal to turn on.

I have the exact same problem. The problem goes away with the OEM ECU installed. I recently had to pass smog and returned the car to 90% stock.

This has to be map configuration or how you built the DIYPNP.

the WLED output is built into the microquirt module. The only way I could see WLED constantly being active is if you something jumped WLED to a ground, or configured your map wrong.

The above settings are exactly what I send with my basemap.

The fan should only come on if the coolant reaches 200°F and TPS is under 85% TPS. Since it's coming on when you have confirmed your coolant temps are reading well under 200°F, I'm leaning heavily to be mechanical.

If you have WLED going straight to 1L, I just don't see how this could be happening.

I'm assuming that the fans run even if you uncheck enabled from the configuration settings above?


If youre having issues with ALED too that really makes me think there's a larger issue. Maybe reflash the firmware (3.4.0), make sure you select option 3 when it prompts for the MS variant.

I am almost certain the wiring is correct. I soldered it with a friend (he did the soldering) and we both verified before putting the board back in the casing. This is the assembly guide I followed and this is the jumper configuration I used, the exception being the wiring I mentioned in my original post based on your recommendation. I'm also using a sequential module, but I doubt that has anything to do with it. I could pull out the board again and snap a couple pics if that would help? I attached my msq above, but I think you'll find it looks identical to the settings you described, as it was based off the one you originally provided me here.

Correct.

Option 3 is microsquirt-module.ini correct? I swear that's what I chose when I originally downloaded the megasquirt-2 firmware from here but I guess it wouldn't hurt to try again...is that the best course of action at this point?

Well I updated firmware and still have fan on all the time. I think its the miata not the diypnp at this point.

what year miata? 90-93?

what happens if you unplug the thermoswitch?

Have you tried plugging the factory ecu back in and turn the key to the accessory on position? When I use my oem ecu, the rad fans only turn on when the required temp is reached. But with the MS installed, the fans turn on as soon as I turn the key to acc on.

That's the fault of your poor tuning abilities.