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So i have turboŽd my european 93 1.6 with a diypnp.
I bought the kit used.
Parts:
- gt2560r
-diypnp
-currently no bov
-diy intercooler piping
-kraken manifold / 3" downpipe no cat
-700cc injectors (SPS Motorsport)
-AEM Uego wideband
-broken bmw vtps
My issue: So after i start the car up it revs to about 2,5krpm and then immediately stalls out.
The vtps that came with the kit is broken, tested it with a multimeter, so the throttle position has some funky value.
With the vtps disconnected the car doesnt start at all. Could this be the issue?
I should have all the correct settings for injectors, sensors etc.
I checked timing before i installed the turbokit, so the timing should be correct too.
My AFR Gauge shows a different value than in Tunerstudio.
Dont know what to do anymore.
Current tune and log with vtps disconnected in the attached files.
It sure sounds to me like you've answered your own question here. The ECU relies on the TPS to command fuel and spark, so bad data in = bad data out. I would start with replacing the TPS with a known good one and go from there.
Update:
got a working tps now.
car starts, runs for 3 sec. then stalls out. (attached a log; tune is still the same as above)
the afr gauge still reads a different value than tunerstudio (as shown in the pictures below)
I have the AEM Uego 30-300
-red cable spliced into cigarette lighter
-brown and black to ground on the back of the head 8 as shown in the picture
-white connected to the factory narrowband sensor plug
- others are unused
I get back to you in a few hours, i'm at work right now.
Have pretty much the same setup as you (turbo, injectors, hotside, IC), but i'm on speeduino. I see what i can do to help out...
I'm not sure I can be much help since I'm still learning all of this stuff myself, but I do have a question or two after looking at your log and tune. When you're cranking the car, are you pumping the gas pedal? Your log shows what appears to be two pumps of the pedal, one right before your RPMs start to rise and another right as it starts to catch.
Have you calibrated your TPS? After the two pumps of the pedal, your TPS percentage shows to be as low as -5.7%.
Have you calibrated your CLT sensor? It might just be super cold where you're located, but 4.0 degrees C is pretty cold, so just checking.
You might also want to check your battery and make sure it isn't weak. Your voltage shows to be 11.9V right before starting, and for a car battery, that's beyond dead.
Based on what I'm seeing in the log and the tune, it looks like the car is stalling at about the time that closed loop idle is supposed to take over. Your closed loop idle target in the log never moves away from zero. Not sure what that means; I checked and you do have the target table populated. Have you tried open loop idle and does it do the same thing?
Also, I think you might have something weird with your wideband connection. It goes from 18 at the beginning to 7.4 and never shows anything other than those two values. That seems a little fishy to me.
Your fueling and cranking both taper off after startup. They should do this, yours is most likely just tapering off too much. Decrease your cranking idle duty, since you're shooting to 2500rpm. Multiply your idle fuel cells by 20%, see if that helps. If doing both of those doesn't help, increase your idle range initial values, although with your high RPM, I don't think that's your problem. You're cranking VE is around 56 according to the log, then you go to 44-46 and stay there, and it dies. You should be around 50 with that 20% I mentioned above, which should solve it.
Remember not to concentrate too much on your tune in it's current state. You need to be warm, no warmup enrichments still active, idling steadily around 30-35% duty cycle, timing set, idle fuel cells set to ~14.7afr with 0% correction, etc. Once that is set, you want to drive around setting your fuel table, then go back and worry about cranking, starting, warmup, cold start, etc, because those are all based off of or multiplications of your warm fuel table.
Have you calibrated your TPS? After the two pumps of the pedal, your TPS percentage shows to be as low as -5.7%.
Have you calibrated your CLT sensor? It might just be super cold where you're located, but 4.0 degrees C is pretty cold, so just checking.
You might also want to check your battery and make sure it isn't weak. Your voltage shows to be 11.9V right before starting, and for a car battery, that's beyond dead.
Based on what I'm seeing in the log and the tune, it looks like the car is stalling at about the time that closed loop idle is supposed to take over. Your closed loop idle target in the log never moves away from zero. Not sure what that means; I checked and you do have the target table populated. Have you tried open loop idle and does it do the same thing?
Unfortunately it is that cold where i live
I gave it two two pumps indeed. The calibration was a bit off.
I tried closed and openloop
I suggest you do as Curly says. And add ASE as a test. However, this looks a lot like what some others had (though MS3) with a wrong jumper that was shutting down the fuel pump.
You might try to notice if the fuel pump stops before the engine stops, or after the engine stops.
I suggest you do as Curly says. And add ASE as a test. However, this looks a lot like what some others had (though MS3) with a wrong jumper that was shutting down the fuel pump.
You might try to notice if the fuel pump stops before the engine stops, or after the engine stops.
I think youŽre right. the car started today when the map sensor was accidently unplugged.
But on the same map withe the map sensor connected it did the start and stall thing.
So i jumpered the fp via the diagnostic box. Then the car started idled poorly but idled.
02-25-2020, 11:33 AM
Stalling after startup
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