Tach signal with standalone MSI - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 02-17-2008, 04:02 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnamx-5 View Post
I wonder if i will have an issue using my recently aquired millenia coils with built in ignitors and not being able to get a tach signal?
You have the FSM diagram right? Post it up or something and we'll look at it. Maybe they have four pins (1 for tach) just like the miata and toyota coils.
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Old 02-17-2008, 06:27 PM   #22
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Name:  barrys1.jpg
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pic
manual from another forum
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Old 02-17-2008, 06:31 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack
I'm almost positive it's the same deal with the 1.6Ls and standalone. The b/w tach signal from the coils should have 1V provided to it, else the signal cant power the tach on the dash....
Quote:
Originally Posted by j_man
Yes the '94-'95 is the exact same thing as the '90-'93. The stock ECU does the pull-up.
It definitely ain't the same as the 1.6s if that's the case. The 1.6 igniter has a black/white wire coming out of it that feeds back to the ECU, however the tach signal is a yellow/blue wire which goes from the igniter to the tachometer and the diagnostic connector. On my car (MS, full standalone) I left the yellow/blue wire alone (still goes from igniter to tachometer) however my black/white wire is completely disconnected.
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Old 02-17-2008, 06:48 PM   #24
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So this should work right guys?
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Old 02-17-2008, 06:57 PM   #25
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yeah or just try it in the diagnostic box, -IG to the 12v source +B
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Old 02-17-2008, 06:59 PM   #26
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I haven't hooked up my tach for over a year, the rev limit in MS will stop me if I've gone too far....I can go by sound to give me a rough ball park anyways.
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Old 02-17-2008, 07:43 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
It definitely ain't the same as the 1.6s if that's the case. The 1.6 igniter has a black/white wire coming out of it that feeds back to the ECU, however the tach signal is a yellow/blue wire which goes from the igniter to the tachometer and the diagnostic connector. On my car (MS, full standalone) I left the yellow/blue wire alone (still goes from igniter to tachometer) however my black/white wire is completely disconnected.
Then is the external ignitor of the NA6 doing the pullup and not the ECU?


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Old 02-17-2008, 07:47 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magnamx-5 View Post
pic
manual from another forum
IGF is your tach signal. You'll need a pull-up
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Old 02-17-2008, 08:02 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
So this should work right guys?
add that pic to the archives for standalone MSI in a 94-95 cuz it ******* worked. Thank you Chad and Scott, no matter what OG says about you 2 you're OK in my book.


WOOT!
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Old 02-17-2008, 08:17 PM   #30
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I'm just glad there are some smart guys on here that can figure this stuff out. Good job guys.
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Old 02-17-2008, 08:49 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j_man View Post
IGF is your tach signal. You'll need a pull-up
hmm i guess i got more reading to do then. Chad what is a pull-up?
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Old 02-17-2008, 08:55 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by magnamx-5 View Post
hmm i guess i got more reading to do then. Chad what is a pull-up?
The idea of a pullup resistor is that it weakly "pulls" the voltage of the wire it's connected to towards 5V (or whatever voltage represents a logic "high"). However, the resistor is intentionally weak (high-resistance) enough that, if something else strongly pulls the wire toward 0V, the wire will go to 0V. An example of something that would strongly pull a wire to 0V would be the transistor in an open-collector output.
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Old 02-17-2008, 09:21 PM   #33
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thanks for clearing that up
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Old 02-18-2008, 12:03 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul View Post
add that pic to the archives for standalone MSI in a 94-95 cuz it ******* worked. Thank you Chad and Scott, no matter what OG says about you 2 you're OK in my book.


WOOT!
Son of a bitch..

Anyone happen to locate the pin on the 1995.5 tach wire on the boomslang? Position 2I has no wire on my cars ECU harness. I'm guessing but haven't had ANY time to check it out, but I'm guessing that its position 1F because my documentation shows its not used but I think theres actually a wire there.
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Old 02-18-2008, 05:35 AM   #35
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You already fixed your problem, but I just want to feel important.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=9723

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/showthread.php?t=10921

-Mike
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Old 02-18-2008, 09:00 AM   #36
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yeah, thats what Chad was reading when he told me what to do. he was referring to you here:

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I'm just glad there are some smart guys on here that can figure this stuff out. Good job guys.
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Old 02-18-2008, 11:21 AM   #37
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wow i was right for once. now i feel cool. im glad i can regurgitate things out and sound all-knowing.
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Old 02-20-2008, 07:40 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul View Post
. Thank you Chad and Scott, no matter what OG says about you 2 you're OK in my book.


WOOT!
Where the **** did that come from?
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Old 02-20-2008, 08:26 AM   #39
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Where the **** did that come from?
Have I been hanging around Louis too much?
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Old 02-20-2008, 09:22 AM   #40
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For the benefit of other owners, I just BLK/WHI to 12v via a 1000ohm resistor, and I now have a working tacho. That saved me from having to duplicate the circuit I used to provide a working tach for my Haltech.
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