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Old 05-15-2011, 05:44 PM   #21
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No, you DONT want tachselect to OPTIN.

you want Tachselect to XG1.

Remove the cap to JS8, that was a filter on your previous tach input mods, you do not need to.

TSEL to OPTOOUT remains.




so like I thought, you did the mods wrong: sounds you had tachselect to OPTIN AND XG1.
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Old 05-15-2011, 06:40 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
No, you DONT want tachselect to OPTIN.

you want Tachselect to XG1.

Remove the cap to JS8, that was a filter on your previous tach input mods, you do not need to.

TSEL to OPTOOUT remains.




so like I thought, you did the mods wrong: sounds you had tachselect to OPTIN AND XG1.
Doh yes sorry, I've not engaged my brain at all today, ignore me Brain is right.
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Old 05-15-2011, 06:45 PM   #23
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Well actually I did remove that little jumper to optin towards the end and it still didn't work. But for a while yes, both were connected. Next time I will just strip all the mods off the board and to them all again for MS2. this time it was remove one mod then put in the MS2 version, repeat. Obviously this led to things being missed. Frankly its all looking pretty sloppy in there at this point so I wouldn't mind cleaning it all up anyway.

So do the shift light and EBC ouputs remain the same from one processor to the other?

I am leaning towards the filter being the problem. But like I said I will get the new ignitor in and try again next weekend. on that note, now that I have the twin transistor spark output mod done there is no chance I will cook the ignitor again short of pissing in the ms right?
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Old 05-15-2011, 06:50 PM   #24
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Well you're gonna loose your shift lights, MS2 doesn't have the same option

With the twin transistor you can still cook the ignitor if you don't remember to invert the output in the tuning software!
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Old 05-15-2011, 06:51 PM   #25
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most outputs can stay the same. obviously anything on JS10 needs to move. but it sounds like everything can remain.
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Old 05-21-2011, 02:40 PM   #26
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It runs. Using this thread-

https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...&highlight=xg1

I managed to sort it out. As you suspected Brain the mods were not all correct. Still a couple of jumpers in place that no longer needed to be there.

So on to new problems. First off my LC1 and TS do not agree on what the current AFR is. TS reads it at around .8 to 1 unit too high (or the LC-1 DB gauge is reading low). I calibrated it, and they are all sharing the same ground point (MS, LC-1, and the DB gauge). I have been thru the program procedure in TS and with the LC-1 about a dozen times each now and no dice.

As an aside I have never in the 3 years I have owned the thing, been able to get the LC-1 to talk to "logworks" only tried again today to pull reading straight off the unit and establish whether the problem lies with the gauge or with TS.

Any Idea's?

And the larger problem is that now none of my mods work. I am, and always have been, a bit over my head with the input/output mods and frankly it took ages to get them working on the old MS1. So while I have your attention, perhaps you guys can point me in the right direction now. I have three things going on, a shift light, EBC, and the clutch switch input for launch control. they are wired/setup as follows

L/C- I cut off the old output from the clutch switch (This is a JDM car so I only have one clutch switch, the one that reads at the top of the pedals throw) and ran a new wire over to the MS (So that the Nuetral switch would not be involved). So it supplies ground when the pedal is pressed. it goes into the MS via IAC1b and from there is wired to JS7. I also added the jumper on the MS2 Daughterboard from JP4 to pin 10. Input in TS is set to PE0/JS7. LC doesnt seem to work at all.

Shift Light- It gets power from Ign. and the ground lead is run into the MS thru SPR4 and is wired to the flat side of D15. Q7 has been upgraded to a PN2222a. D15 is still in place. In output settings in TS I have set PM4 enabled. rpm<2000 power on=0 trigger val=1 (tried those both ways). The shift light in this case has 4 surface mounted LED's on a small PCB in the housing, not a tail light bulb like the Autometer ones. It turned on as soon as I plugged it in and wouldn't turn off. As I was playing with settings it flickered twice then went out. Hasnt worked since. I unplugged it. WHat burnt out and what have I wired wrong.

The EBC I have not tested at all. It is wired as per the DIY how too on this forum with the input going to JS0. I expect it will work but given my luck up to this point I am not holding my breath.
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Old 05-21-2011, 03:57 PM   #27
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Fixed the shift light. Moved the input, and reused the old setup I had in the proto area based on the fans mod from the diy thread. So thats at least fixed.
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Old 05-21-2011, 05:35 PM   #28
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And the launch control is now fixed as well. Turns out the switch was dead. The little spring inside had rusted and collapsed. So a ball point pen had to die and now the switch works again. and so launch control works too.

Perhaps in future I should wait a bit longer before posting these problems up here.

at any rate that leaves just the lc1 discrepancy, and that has been beaten to death here so I suppose I will have to go run a 0 gauge ground wire for the ******* thing and see if that helps.

Also the idle valve sounds like your mothers vibrator whenever I plug it in, and it stalls the engine. But with it unplugged it runs great so that can wait, while I read up on tuning the damn thing
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Old 05-21-2011, 05:36 PM   #29
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try .22v = 7.35 5v = 22.39 (make sure the AFR values are correct.)
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Old 05-21-2011, 05:53 PM   #30
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Just did. A bit better but still of by .5-.8 Where are you getting those numbers? you know something I don't? This was never a problem with MS1 so its a real mystery why it has popped up now. Both LC1 grounds and the ground for its gauge are soldered to one of the ground wires at the ecu. they were on a ring terminal under the hood before at the engine ground strap (cleaned up things a bit during the upgrade). I moved it to the ecu ground as I have heard, since I originally installed this, that it is better there. Is one of the ecu grounds better than the other? or should I bite the bullet and run a damn wire to the throttle body, or back out to the ground strap.
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:04 PM   #31
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cuase thats what i have to do. move it up .22v from 0.
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:09 PM   #32
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Ah, well that makes sense. Well that is what mine is set to now. I'll move the damned ground back to where it was in the morning and try again, but it is now dark out and i have neighbors (and no muffler) so I am done for today.
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Old 05-21-2011, 06:12 PM   #33
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But while I have your attention, DO I need to alter anything inside the MS to run Low imp injectors with ms2? or can I just remove the resistors and change the settings to PWM?

Thanks for all your help by the way.
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Old 05-21-2011, 07:49 PM   #34
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its still not recommended. if you have to, use Jean's peak and hold board.
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:32 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
its still not recommended. if you have to, use Jean's peak and hold board.
Or fix the board as per this thread http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewto...+impedance+mod

Jeans driver board will be much easier though.

Blaize, how did you fix your shift light? Or do you just have it as an on/off light at a certain RPM rather than the graduated lights that MS1 offered?
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Old 05-23-2011, 10:16 AM   #36
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This is our recommended mod if noise caused by excessive low-z flyback spikes is experienced

Quote:
1. Cut the center leg on Q9 and Q12 or desolder it so it does not reach the PCB.
2. Run a length of jumper wire from the center leg of Q9 and Q12 to an unused pin on the DB37 connector.
3. Wire this pin to a 12 volt source in the wiring harness, separate from the Megasquirt's power supply wire.
This mod is not commonly needed. External p&h equipment is also acceptable.
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Old 05-24-2011, 06:01 PM   #37
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Not a big issue, I'll leave the resistors in for the time being, and add the peak and hold board when I get around to it. Looks like tuning the idle valve is going to keep me busy for a while anyway.

No it is just a single red shift light. Sequential lights never interested me.
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Old 05-25-2011, 04:40 AM   #38
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Read the large thread on this board started by 'Greg G', it's very useful for tuning the idle valve.
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