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VVT swap with Rev MS3, no start

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Old Apr 20, 2016 | 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
An OEM wheel is incompatible with this damper. This problem could have occurred with a 4 tooth wheel just as easily. You are making a blanket statement that is just false.
Yes you are in claiming 36 tooth wheels are as reliable as stock. LOL at claiming they are in this thread of all threads. He is not the first person to install a 36 tooth wheel and not decode it from the get go.

An OEM wheel would not have had a tooth cut on another tooth like that. Have you ever seen a defective 4 tooth wheel from mazda?
Old Apr 20, 2016 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by emilio700
Wrong.

We have run the proto 36-2 wheels for many hours under many adverse conditions on our dampers without issue. FM has many customers on their wheel for the ATI damper without issue. Superior to a 4T in every way. This one however, appears to have a manufacturing defect. Unrelated to the design configuration. A defect in an aftermarket 4T would have the same problem. We'll get it sorted out for Josh ASAP.
What is wrong?
Old Apr 20, 2016 | 10:41 PM
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Uh yeah, as stated IN THIS THREAD, it appears to be a manufacturing defect, not an issue with the MS. If anything it just shows the MS has enough resolution for 72-2 wheel. 4t is archaic, an MR2 of the same vintage had a 12t, no reason to keep using one if a 32-2 is available.
Old Apr 20, 2016 | 10:46 PM
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Pat, the manufacturing defect for the 949 damper could of happened on any tooth of any wheel. When the burn table begins it's cut, it make a larger than standard cut momentarily, resulting in a hole where it starts the burn. This simply needs to be programed to start elsewhere, such as a valley not a tooth.

If you're bringing up OEM 4t wheels, perhaps we should bring up the effects the OEM engine has on it's own internals, such as the oil pump gears? We're discussing an upgraded pulley, try to keep up.
Old Apr 20, 2016 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
Uh yeah, as stated IN THIS THREAD, it appears to be a manufacturing defect, not an issue with the MS. If anything it just shows the MS has enough resolution for 72-2 wheel. 4t is archaic, an MR2 of the same vintage had a 12t, no reason to keep using one if a 32-2 is available.
You got it.
Old Apr 20, 2016 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
Pat, the manufacturing defect for the 949 damper could of happened on any tooth of any wheel. When the burn table begins it's cut, it make a larger than standard cut momentarily, resulting in a hole where it starts the burn. This simply needs to be programed to start elsewhere, such as a valley not a tooth.

If you're bringing up OEM 4t wheels, perhaps we should bring up the effects the OEM engine has on it's own internals, such as the oil pump gears? We're discussing an upgraded pulley, try to keep up.
OEM wheels are not burned, they're punched out on a punch press that makes every part exactly the same. Fast/cheap/consistent, but expensive tooling cost up front.

I agree run a good damper, run a higher res wheel for all the reasons that have been discussed. I've run a 36 for YEARS myself. But I don't claim it has OEM level reliability, it does have higher accuracy of course.
Old Apr 20, 2016 | 10:51 PM
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DO YOU NEED ANOTHER ******* WARNING BOY?!?
Old Apr 20, 2016 | 10:54 PM
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I'm sure it has happened. This is not about a 36 tooth wheel. It's about a an aftermarket wheel with a defect. Mazda made a 36-1 wheel that worked just fine for hundreds of thousands of cars.
Old Apr 20, 2016 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by curly
DO YOU NEED ANOTHER ******* WARNING BOY?!?
No. What was the first one for, you disagreeing with me?
Old Apr 20, 2016 | 11:29 PM
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Curly is whipping out the MODERATOR *****! !!
Old Apr 21, 2016 | 01:00 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by patsmx5
OEM wheels are not burned, they're punched out on a punch press that makes every part exactly the same. Fast/cheap/consistent, but expensive tooling cost up front.

I agree run a good damper, run a higher res wheel for all the reasons that have been discussed. I've run a 36 for YEARS myself. But I don't claim it has OEM level reliability, it does have higher accuracy of course.
Reliability != Quality control. You've never seen a mazda wheel that didn't work because...hmmm....maybe they started the engine BEFORE LEAVING THE FACTORY. So no **** you've never seen one. I'm sure a punch press makes mistakes. In fact there is a pile of scrap failures in the punch press that is in the basement at my work. Plenty of reasons it could have failed.

You have some crazy vendetta against anything but a 4 tooth OEM wheel. Its annoying.
Old Apr 21, 2016 | 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Reliability != Quality control. You've never seen a mazda wheel that didn't work because...hmmm....maybe they started the engine BEFORE LEAVING THE FACTORY. So no **** you've never seen one. I'm sure a punch press makes mistakes. In fact there is a pile of scrap failures in the punch press that is in the basement at my work. Plenty of reasons it could have failed.

You have some crazy vendetta against anything but a 4 tooth OEM wheel. Its annoying.
QC doesn't matter for OEM, like you said yourself bad parts never left the factory if they wouldn't run the car. And also like you said I've never seen a bad one.
I have used a 36 tooth wheel myself, for years.
Old Apr 21, 2016 | 09:12 AM
  #33  
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I like all this usage of CAPS
Old Apr 21, 2016 | 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Girz0r


I like all this usage of CAPS
I like the usage of the OEM 4-tooth wheel.
Old Apr 21, 2016 | 09:29 AM
  #35  
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does this fancy bucktooth wheel improve MS startup time in sequential?
Old Apr 21, 2016 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
does this fancy bucktooth wheel improve MS startup time in sequential?
Theoretically yes. (Because I know how much you love theory)
Old Apr 21, 2016 | 10:17 AM
  #37  
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Next question: who's removed one? I'm guessing something like this?

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/oes-...YN3hoCt5Lw_wcB

Old Apr 21, 2016 | 10:22 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by curly
I know 949 rents one. But you should try that one for science.

Did you try a smaller gap? See if it would ignore that missing chunk?
Old Apr 21, 2016 | 10:24 AM
  #39  
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Yes it stopped coughing all together.

They rent the installer
Old Apr 21, 2016 | 10:34 AM
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cut a piece of copper wire and tape into the notch. come on man!



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