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Old 02-23-2009, 11:39 AM   #1
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Default whacked-out lc-1 (heater calibration error)

This **** is making me crazy. 90% of the time both outputs read 15.0 or 14.9:1, with the 4-steady blinking lights indicating the need for heater calibration. Its done this every time I've driven it for the past few weeks; last night it worked fine for the entire 3-hour road trip.

I've done the heater calibration several times and I keep getting the error usually immediately.

What do I do now?
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Old 02-23-2009, 11:42 AM   #2
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Is it wired up 100.00000000000000000000000000000000000% the way outlined in the instructions included with the LC-1? Where is the sensor mounted and has it ever been mounted closer without a heat sink? How are all of your connections made? Where does the unit get it's switched when key on only and not when starting +12V power from?
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Old 02-23-2009, 11:48 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
Is it wired up 100.00000000000000000000000000000000000% the way outlined in the instructions included with the LC-1? Where is the sensor mounted and has it ever been mounted closer without a heat sink? How are all of your connections made? Where does the unit get it's switched when key on only and not when starting +12V power from?
each GND is on a separate lug on the intake plenum.
sensor is in just at the very back of the downpipe, mounted on top (I used a copper heatsink when it was on the stock DP).
connections are soldered.
power from the big, yellow wire under the steering column (my other gauges stay on when cranking, but the DB gauge shows no #'s when cranking).
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Old 02-23-2009, 11:51 AM   #4
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Is said big yellow wire switched on ONLY when in the run position? What size heat sink did you use before?
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Old 02-23-2009, 12:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patsmx5 View Post
Is said big yellow wire switched on ONLY when in the run position? What size heat sink did you use before?
that is correct. However, the other gauges stay "on" when starting the car.
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Old 02-23-2009, 12:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
each GND is on a separate lug on the intake plenum.
all should be on the same ground as the ECU......the TB ground.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Innovate Motorsports's LC-1_Manual.pdf
Note: The LC-1’s heater ground and system ground wires should share the same grounding location of the analog input’s ground.
your analog input is your MS, which gets grounded there....
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Old 02-23-2009, 12:31 PM   #7
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Scott said it, you sir have ground offset issues. I told you to do that specifically a while back. Mine has been working perfectly for 3 months now.
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Old 02-23-2009, 01:04 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by akaryrye View Post
Scott said it, you sir have ground offset issues. I told you to do that specifically a while back. Mine has been working perfectly for 3 months now.
I didn't have this problem when it was hooked up exactly the same way, before the turbo instal.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
all should be on the same ground as the ECU......the TB ground.
your analog input is your MS, which gets grounded there....
allow me to quote the rest of that paragraph:
Quote:
5. The BLUE and WHITE wires should all be grounded to the same ground source. Optimally, these (and any other MTS device ground) will be soldered to the same lug, and connected to a single point. When this isn’t possible, connect each one to a separate lug, and attach in close proximity. Multiple lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in unwanted signal “noise.” When possible, soldering is always better than crimping. Please see chapter 2.3 for more information on Electrical Grounding Concerns.
They're on separate bolts on the same piece of metal, close together, consistent with the instructions.
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Old 02-23-2009, 01:18 PM   #9
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Quote:
When this isn’t possible
hmmmm.
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Old 02-23-2009, 01:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
hmmmm.
how am I supposed to determine which of the 5-black wires in the factory harness is the ecu gnd?
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Old 02-23-2009, 02:47 PM   #11
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A wiring diagram, or the common knowledge on a 1.8L it's grounded at the throttle body.

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Old 02-23-2009, 03:42 PM   #12
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Put the LC1 in the garbage or start shopping for a new sensor. If it starts to randomly flake out after working flawlessly its the sensor.
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Old 02-23-2009, 04:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
A wiring diagram, or the common knowledge on a 1.8L it's grounded at the throttle body.

I have a 1.6 chassis car, and there's no telling where I put the GND for the computer. The bundle in the back from the stock harness are all black...I can't identify them.
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Old 02-23-2009, 04:13 PM   #14
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1.6L grounds at the fuel rail.



the bolt just below the cam cover bolt, the one with the ground wires under it.
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Old 02-23-2009, 04:27 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
1.6L grounds at the fuel rail.



the bolt just below the cam cover bolt, the one with the ground wires under it.
ok, but its 2-wires...so which is which? Also, I have two GND wire bundles on the back of my head...how should I identify the computer GND?

Even then, I've followed the directions, and it worked fine on the previous install.
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Old 02-23-2009, 05:44 PM   #16
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I had this issue with my install. It ended up actually being my power source rather than my grounds. I had a shitty connection on the power and it wasn't getting its full 12 volts to the heater.

I have all my LC-1 grounds to the same lug since it was possible for me FWIW.
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Old 02-23-2009, 05:50 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
ok, but its 2-wires...so which is which? Also, I have two GND wire bundles on the back of my head...how should I identify the computer GND?

Even then, I've followed the directions, and it worked fine on the previous install.

Your CPU ground should be 2C (black/green) and your sensor ground is 2A. Those two wires are connected down the road, but they should end up in the same place, along with your wbo2 grounds.

When they are grounded in different locations and your voltage differs to the LC-1 due to the separate grounding points, it doesn't like you.
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Old 02-23-2009, 06:08 PM   #18
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I grounded the LC1 at two different points and haven't had a single issue so far. About 5k miles on it.

I put the system and signal ground to the BLACK/LIGHT GREEN tab at the location that Brain posted, and the heater ground to the BLACK tab just below the brake master cylinder on the driver's side of the car. I don't remember exactly why I did this, but I'm 99% sure Klaus Whatsisname (the tech chief at Innovate) recommended this expressly, contradicting the language in the LC1 manual.
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