What a mess, and by mess I mean fun
05-24-2007, 09:51 PM
#25
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And who the chuff apart from me is going to see it? (granted a few people as I've photo'd and and posted it on a forum but you get my point)
Anyway I've not JBwelded it to the block, I've used JBweld to attach a bolt onto the block and the knock sensor is sitting on that bolts thread and torqued down with a nut and washer at both ends.
I don't see how the JBweld will filter anything out considering how hard it becomes once it's cured.
Some people need to get in the DIY spirit considering they're all using a DIY ECU
Anyway I've not JBwelded it to the block, I've used JBweld to attach a bolt onto the block and the knock sensor is sitting on that bolts thread and torqued down with a nut and washer at both ends.
I don't see how the JBweld will filter anything out considering how hard it becomes once it's cured.
Some people need to get in the DIY spirit considering they're all using a DIY ECU
but seriously, JB-Weld is not the same as solid steel. if you drop a solid hunk of jb-weld on a concrete floor, what sound does it make? thud? clunk? steel? ting ting.
see, the speed of sound and resonant frequency in the two materials is VERY different. There's a bolt hole a few inches away from your JB weld in that picture... can't you use that?
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05-25-2007, 01:25 AM
#28
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Instead of paying the FM bling-tax, replace a bolt with a stud as Scott mentioned. Better yet, find one in a junkyard for free.
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05-25-2007, 01:38 AM
#29
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Looks are not the issue. Mounting a sensor which is extremely sensitive to sound vibrations on a soft metal (JB) instead of cast iron is going to seriously compromise it's effectiveness. The modulus of elasticity of JB is 6x10^5 psi and cast iron starts at 11.6x10^6 psi. The JB will slow down the sound waves because of it's elasticity, and limit the sensors abilities.
Instead of paying the FM bling-tax, replace a bolt with a stud as Scott mentioned. Better yet, find one in a junkyard for free.
Instead of paying the FM bling-tax, replace a bolt with a stud as Scott mentioned. Better yet, find one in a junkyard for free.
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05-25-2007, 03:55 AM
#33
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My Engine is NOT going to grenade due to me using JBWeld because I don't run a knock sensor to get me to the absolute bleding edge, (and for that matter nor shoulde anyone else), I use it as a safetynet for if I get a bad tank of fuel or the A/W pump fails etc.
The latter has happened once AND GUES WHAT THE ENGINE INTAKE TEMPS GOT HOTTER AND I GOT KNOCK WHICH THE SENSOR PICKED UP AND MS RETARDED THE SETTINGS SO MY ENGINE STILL WORKS PERFECTLY
I guess that proves that my sensor is fine. No-one can physically prove that it doesn't work, merly provide conjecture, so I guess all the nay-sayers owe me an apology.
BTW TEC3... DIY... give me a break, you added some wires good job :gay:
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05-25-2007, 08:48 AM
#35
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This is why FM prevails...
I have about 10-15 random studs laying around the garage....just needs three nuts now, one to torque down the motor mount flange, one for the sensor, and one to make sure everything doesn't back out. My cost, free.
This isn't ******* rocket science...it's holding a ******* sensor in place.
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05-25-2007, 10:10 AM
#36
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Oh FFS, look the Knock Sensor is NOT JBwelded to the f*ing block. I've used JBweld to hold a bolt to the block. this Bolt's head is physicaly touching the head of an engine mount bolt.
My Engine is NOT going to grenade due to me using JBWeld because I don't run a knock sensor to get me to the absolute bleding edge, (and for that matter nor shoulde anyone else), I use it as a safetynet for if I get a bad tank of fuel or the A/W pump fails etc.
The latter has happened once AND GUES WHAT THE ENGINE INTAKE TEMPS GOT HOTTER AND I GOT KNOCK WHICH THE SENSOR PICKED UP AND MS RETARDED THE SETTINGS SO MY ENGINE STILL WORKS PERFECTLY
I guess that proves that my sensor is fine. No-one can physically prove that it doesn't work, merly provide conjecture, so I guess all the nay-sayers owe me an apology.
BTW TEC3... DIY... give me a break, you added some wires good job :gay:
My Engine is NOT going to grenade due to me using JBWeld because I don't run a knock sensor to get me to the absolute bleding edge, (and for that matter nor shoulde anyone else), I use it as a safetynet for if I get a bad tank of fuel or the A/W pump fails etc.
The latter has happened once AND GUES WHAT THE ENGINE INTAKE TEMPS GOT HOTTER AND I GOT KNOCK WHICH THE SENSOR PICKED UP AND MS RETARDED THE SETTINGS SO MY ENGINE STILL WORKS PERFECTLY
I guess that proves that my sensor is fine. No-one can physically prove that it doesn't work, merly provide conjecture, so I guess all the nay-sayers owe me an apology.
BTW TEC3... DIY... give me a break, you added some wires good job :gay:
fine, i welded up my own exhaust from the turbine to the tip.
i repainted my front bumper.
i created a twin plate clutch kit where none existed.
I understand the part about there being a bolt touching a bolt. that's clear. when the jb weld expands from heat, does it still touch? when it gets oily or wet does it still hold?
I JB welded a radiator end tank once because I was desperate and it held about 8 hours.
There's things I use it for (sealing my oil dreain threads at the oil pan, making a PCV return pipe on the intake pipe) and things I dont (sensitive instruments, structural assembly).
i'll apologize if you want.... right after you prove it's not missing some knock
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05-25-2007, 10:21 AM
#37
This is why FM prevails...
I have about 10-15 random studs laying around the garage....just needs three nuts now, one to torque down the motor mount flange, one for the sensor, and one to make sure everything doesn't back out. My cost, free. This isn't ******* rocket science...it's holding a ******* sensor in place.
I have about 10-15 random studs laying around the garage....just needs three nuts now, one to torque down the motor mount flange, one for the sensor, and one to make sure everything doesn't back out. My cost, free.
This isn't ******* rocket science...it's holding a ******* sensor in place.
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05-25-2007, 10:28 AM
#39
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hey it's your car.
fine, i welded up my own exhaust from the turbine to the tip.
i repainted my front bumper.
i created a twin plate clutch kit where none existed.
I understand the part about there being a bolt touching a bolt. that's clear. when the jb weld expands from heat, does it still touch? when it gets oily or wet does it still hold?
I JB welded a radiator end tank once because I was desperate and it held about 8 hours.
There's things I use it for (sealing my oil dreain threads at the oil pan, making a PCV return pipe on the intake pipe) and things I dont (sensitive instruments, structural assembly).
i'll apologize if you want.... right after you prove it's not missing some knock
fine, i welded up my own exhaust from the turbine to the tip.
i repainted my front bumper.
i created a twin plate clutch kit where none existed.
I understand the part about there being a bolt touching a bolt. that's clear. when the jb weld expands from heat, does it still touch? when it gets oily or wet does it still hold?
I JB welded a radiator end tank once because I was desperate and it held about 8 hours.
There's things I use it for (sealing my oil dreain threads at the oil pan, making a PCV return pipe on the intake pipe) and things I dont (sensitive instruments, structural assembly).
i'll apologize if you want.... right after you prove it's not missing some knock
If it dodn't hold, the sensor would fall off, so I guess it's fine so far.
I suppose I'm not going to get an apology as my engine isn't going to die due to pre-ignition, and barring spending a fortune and going to a rolling road with detcans I've no way of proving it.
Hey it works for me, I'll probably move to a proper steel bolt when I source one, but I refused to pay well over a tenner for one bolt.
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05-25-2007, 10:28 AM
#40
The part from FM cost $16usd. It really took me about 1 minute to install it after removing the existing bolt. How long did it take you to install it your way? What's your time worth? Which solution is better?
I thought so ...
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