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Originally Posted by skylinecalvin
(Post 1502176)
You should go with something a local tuner supports or see if you can get somebody here to remote tune for you if you don't plan on learning pass autotune.
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Originally Posted by Mirage775
(Post 1502105)
Yep, there's an "Options" plug, but you have to buy an additional harness and find what wire does what and splice them together. I thought this AFR gauge install was simple and the MS was PNP and that was it... I'm having doubts about this whole thing now...
Originally Posted by Mirage775
(Post 1502178)
I was told auto tune was fine. There aren't any local tuners that use MS, as I've been checking around. I found a fella in GA that will remote tune it, but he's not too familiar with MS. I just don't have a lot of free time to mess with it anytime soon. I miss the old days where you could modify an engine and not worry about electronics tuning, to make it run.
For me the hardest part about digging up old threads on this forum is filtering out the mis-information/outdated information/relevant information and trying to piece all this information together. Lots of threads do end up without much of a solution posted so that's a bit frustrating at times. And as mentioned, there are a couple of users on here who will e-tune the MS for you. That is the route I am planning to go as I've believe I've done enough to get my car driving ok, but I need someone with more expertise to iron out the rest of the tune for me. |
Originally Posted by HmoobDude
(Post 1502186)
The PNP just means that it'll plug and play into your OEM harness, but you still have to do a bit of work on your end. Did you purchase your MSpnp2 brand new? If so you should've gotten the additional options port. If you followed that link I posted and read section 2, it tells you which "pins" in the options ports are for what. In this case you would wire up/splice your WB output signal to pin 21 of the options port.
Auto tune only "tunes" the fuel tables and it isn't perfect by any means (i.e: it wants to add or take away fuel in certain cells/bins like the overrun cells/bins) but is useful to get your fuel table (VE Table) to where you are targeting (AFR Table). There is still some fine tuning needed on that end, auto tune will not tune your ignition table, closed loop idle conditions, acceleration enrichment, A/C Idle control, etc. That is all on you to tune or your tuner to tune. Read more and research more (sounds like you have all Winter to do so), there's tons of information on this forum and over at msextra (Manuals for Megasquirt-2 (3.4.x) - Megasquirt EFI). For me the hardest part about digging up old threads on this forum is filtering out the mis-information/outdated information/relevant information and trying to piece all this information together. Lots of threads do end up without much of a solution posted so that's a bit frustrating at times. And as mentioned, there are a couple of users on here who will e-tune the MS for you. That is the route I am planning to go as I've believe I've done enough to get my car driving ok, but I need someone with more expertise to iron out the rest of the tune for me. I've read over the many pages at DIYautotune and actually have bookmarked the links. I've watched Greg's video of changing the timing and fuel tables in TS, once you get everything installed. I just wish there was someone local to tune it for me... I can "learn" how to operate MS, I'm just trying to figure out where these AFR wires go and it's all very frustrating.... I'll keep researching. |
Let's back up a quick second here.
What are you trying to do with the car? What's the goal with the new engine? The wideband wiring is cake. The IAT wiring is cake. The actual install of the Megasquirt is cake. You'll be fine. Getting the car to run well after all this is the hard part and what you really should be worrying about. Like i said previously, there's no way i'd bother with this on a 99-00 specifically unless you were going to make actual power. So what's the new motor? What are you doing? |
Originally Posted by Mirage775
(Post 1502110)
... I know it's simple and I'm overreacting about the whole thing. I actually don't plan to tinker much with the MS. .
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Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1502203)
Let's back up a quick second here.
What are you trying to do with the car? What's the goal with the new engine? The wideband wiring is cake. The IAT wiring is cake. The actual install of the Megasquirt is cake. You'll be fine. Getting the car to run well after all this is the hard part and what you really should be worrying about. Like i said previously, there's no way i'd bother with this on a 99-00 specifically unless you were going to make actual power. So what's the new motor? What are you doing? I'm using the following: Stock NB2 bottom end 72psi Boundary Oil Pump Gates Waterpump Gates Performance Timing Belt (Blue) w new pulleys NB1 head shave .040" with new valve seals and valve job MSM Int Cam RB Header S2 Int Manifold/Throttle Body Honestly, I'd like to run ITB's, but dunno at this point in time? Alternatively, I could build my engine below and not worry about MS: Do everything as above, but no head shave or S2 Intake Manifold or ITB's?
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1502205)
going to have to change this way of thinking.
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You could run that setup on a stock ecu. I'd convert to a Bp5A ecu (way easier) and maybe re-evaluate if you want to give up the midrange torque with the Skunk2 intake manifold vs the oem VICS manifold. 40thou shave might be a little ballsy on a stock ecu, run 92-93 octane and it'll be fine. You don't need the Boundary pump with a car that will only go to stock redline.
That motor is in a weird middle ground where it's a lot of work and money to build a new motor with that stuff, but it won't do anything better. I wouldn't bother. Just put the bolt ons on your current motor and enjoy. |
Say I choose to not MS it, can I post it MS & AEM kit, on this forum, to sell it? Or is it like Miatanet, where I have to pay to post things for sale? Thanks
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You don't need to pay. Might need a certain post count, i'm not real sure. I know CR is 30 posts. Not sure what it is here, i've been here awhile. :bowrofl:
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Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1502252)
You could run that setup on a stock ecu. I'd convert to a Bp5A ecu (way easier) and maybe re-evaluate if you want to give up the midrange torque with the Skunk2 intake manifold vs the oem VICS manifold. 40thou shave might be a little ballsy on a stock ecu, run 92-93 octane and it'll be fine. You don't need the Boundary pump with a car that will only go to stock redline.
That motor is in a weird middle ground where it's a lot of work and money to build a new motor with that stuff, but it won't do anything better. I wouldn't bother. Just put the bolt ons on your current motor and enjoy. I can pass on the Skunk 2 intake, but might use the Skunk 2 TB with either my stock 2000 intake manifold or maybe a flap top manifold? If I could go with the ITB's, I'd like it even more. Just the look and sound of ITB's is amazing! I was told I could go .040" without any issues, but I've thought about .020" or possibly .030" Could I shave it .020" and still run without a standalone? I guess my final question is, can I use stock ECU or and MSM ECU with my NB2 bottom end, .020" shave on NB1 head, MSM int cam and ITB's? If yall think I can, I'll go that route and sell the MS. Thanks!
Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1502255)
You don't need to pay. Might need a certain post count, i'm not real sure. I know CR is 30 posts. Not sure what it is here, i've been here awhile. :bowrofl:
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If you have a 2000, it's an NB1. No immobilizer, and BP5A is an NB1 ecu. It requires converting to a return style vac-referenced fuel system to run correctly, but it's not a terrible job.
You can shave it 20thou on a stock ecu. You can't run ITBs on a stock ecu. You can't run MSM ecu. |
Originally Posted by concealer404
(Post 1502265)
If you have a 2000, it's an NB1. No immobilizer, and BP5A is an NB1 ecu. It requires converting to a return style vac-referenced fuel system to run correctly, but it's not a terrible job.
You can shave it 20thou on a stock ecu. You can't run ITBs on a stock ecu. You can't run MSM ecu. Ohhhh, I thought a BP5A was an MSM ECU? So, what's a BP5A ECU from? I found a link somewhere about turning an NB1, into a return fuel setup. I have all the fuel lines from the '05, if those are needed? So, buy a BP5A ECU, shave head .020", install my MSM cam and possibly use ITB's without a standalone? Will it throw any CEL's? |
Originally Posted by Mirage775
(Post 1502271)
Yes, I know my car's an NB1...
Ohhhh, I thought a BP5A was an MSM ECU? So, what's a BP5A ECU from? I found a link somewhere about turning an NB1, into a return fuel setup. I have all the fuel lines from the '05, if those are needed? So, buy a BP5A ECU, shave head .020", install my MSM cam and possibly use ITB's without a standalone? Will it throw any CEL's? BP5A ecu does not have OBD2 functionality of any kind. Which is good for say... removing emissions without a pesky CEL. Not good in terms of being able to plug in a code reader for diagnosis. My official recommendation is install your bolt ons on car as it sits, and see how you feel. A small head shave is actual real work for probably not much noticeable gain. The BP5A ecu is 100% optional. The car will run fine with the BP5A intake cam on your existing ECU. |
Solid advice. Bout time you joined the real miata club mirage
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1502280)
Solid advice. Bout time you joined the real miata club mirage
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
(Post 1502280)
Solid advice. Bout time you joined the real miata club mirage
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The club where idiotic advice isn't allowed to flourish. MT.
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I put the MS for sale in the Classified section for cheap.
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