Yeah...

alright question. I'm trying to figure out the logic of the output port settings. The goal here is to get the LED's in the switch panel to light up to indicate when launch control and dataloging is active. From what I've read i can use the signal outputs to turn LED's on and off but i'm having a hard time understanding the logic in the output port settings. Anyone care to post up a screenshot of an instance and explain the logic in each box?

Thanks.

 

I want to say RTFM SOOOO bad.

so you'll go to say warmup LED and do active, then trigger 0 1

that means normal off, and the trigger turns it on.

pick your posion for the trigger. Not sure what launch or datalogging will be off hand, but search the list. Then you need to see what the status change will be in order to make the trigger. It might just be 1. This is possibly a question for the programmers.

the hystersis is the amount below the trigger value in order to shut it off, so leave it at zero.

that's about it in a nutsheel to light up something.

pretend you wanted a light to light up above 5000RPM

I'd do:

active, 0| 1

rpm > 5000 0

that's it.

 

I started setting up the ms3 tonight. Bought VE analyze live and the logger. I hooked it up to the car and started going through the initial setup for start up procedure and for some reason everything stopped working. the LEDs that turn on on power up dont work. when i hooked it up to the stim none of my gauges on the dashboard will move when i adjust the pots.. Any ideas on what happened here?

Edit** I will start with this later tonight. http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3trouble.htm

Just a guess but im pretty sure my buddy set the expansions DB37 leads on the face plate which could possibly short something out. the daughter board only had one row of the 2 rows in the plug for a bit as well.

This is what im looking at.

 

School sucks soooo hard this semester. Dynamics, multi-variable calc, and fluid mechanics is a deadly mix. Sorry i havent been on this project but i litterally have had 0 time to mess with the car.

Good news though. I had my EE friend check out the ecu. Tested all the components on the main board and all checked out okay. He ended up updating the firmware and erasing all my configuration settings which solved the problem. I must have had something set up incorrectly in the software. Hopefully i can make some progress on this over spring break.

 

We are trying to start up the car tonight if anyone can give us some advice please do. Im still waiting on my wideband to come back but my friend brought over his aem uego which is what we're trying to start the car on now.

See attached MSQ and Attempted datalog.

Also Video!



To expedite this process just call me.
270-4zero4-07three6

Preciate.

 

Here is a .msl

Looks like the Wideband sensor is bad so im back to waiting till monday for my LC-1.

 

Back to the first page quick, Yank, I have a question.
are your TPS wire colors Green/red, Green/black, Black/red? Which is 5v signal and what are the other two? It would help me greatly if you've got a pinout for them. Thanks much man,
Nick

 

I can get this answer for you this afternoon.

Still need advice on the fire but no start.

Chance91

mine has different colors but this is what i got. looking at the intake of the throttle body with the sensor clip on the left and the cam for the throttle cable on the right the pins top to bottom are
Purple/White = +5V source
Green/Red = Signal
Black/Grey = Signal Ground

 

A bad wideband will not affect your start. The wideband shouldn't even be properly warmed until 20 seconds after startup. I would start simple, like base timing, and go from there. Omit the basic car stuff before you start changing random settings.

Then run through the manual, and then re-read the manual. Google what you don't know, the principals of engine management are similar on all modern cars. Lastly, find a bunch of tunes to compare the ranges people use for different settings. Sometimes you change something less than 1% and you should be changing it 200%.

 

plays with fueling.

 

is your map line connected? I pull more vacuum than that on cranking. check for large vacuum leaks.

 

I did a leak test the other day and the only place im leaking is injector O rings and its nothing horrible. Let me double check the map sensor i have selected in the settings. Good observation.

 

I agree. I pulled the plugs and 3 of them look black and were covered with fuel. Now i just need to figure out how and where to make adjustments. Ive been looking around on megamanual and all i can find is some fuel calculator ---- and injection timing still cant find anything that allows me to change the amount of fuel per injection (duty cycle from what i understand). I'm about to go through these before i get started tonight:

MegaSquirt Information | EFI Installation Help | Technical Support - DIYAutoTune.com
-How-To: Setup Base Ignition Timing
-Secrets to Getting a Smooth Idle (new!)
-MegaSquirt and related Technical Videos / How-To's

Hopefully there will be something good in one of those videos about adjusting fuel. Otherwise if someone knows a good read on fuel adjustment post up a link please.

 

You adjust fuel by the Fuel VE table. higher values, more fuel. Once the car is running you can just auto-tune the whole VE table.

As for vacuum I just checked and I don't pull considerably more vacuum but I get down to like 85kpa before it catches.

Did you try holding the throttle partially/wide open while cranking?

Take the plugs out, lay them across the valve cover, disconnect fuel injectors and see if they are actually sparking (and in the correct order).

Double or half the VE values. you could be flooding -or- not giving enough fuel.

 

Great suggestion and information I'll try to half to VE table values. I did not hold the throttle down. Maybe my ICV is letting too much through too. Ill look into this further when i give it another shot.

Checked it. Spark and fuel firing sequentially in the correct order.

 

I cut the fuel in half and set the timing for fixed advance at 0, 5, 10, and 15 degrees. it seems to do best at 0 degrees. Backfires at 15 degrees some. cranking timing is set to 10 degrees still. it seems to be firing more consistently at 0 degrees fixed advance but still only firing a couple times and then stopping.

 

i dont think your cam/crank is reading properly. composite log isnt consistent, youre getting sync errors in a pattern with how the RPMs spike.


so revisit your wheel decoder settings bro.

 

Are you referring to the loss sync count in MLV? What log are you looking at? All the logs i've posted so far should have loss sync counts after the engine stops and before i begin to crank again. The last time i checked my composite log file i was looking good as far as i could tell. (blue bars for crank teeth and green spikes for cam. red sync flatlines )

 

Im surprised my started hasn't melted down by now. Pretty pissed right now, not gonna lie. I've spent all afternoon / evening trying to get this POS started and have literally gotten nowhere. My only achievement is being able to move around and make adjustments to 3D spark advance and fuel tables.

Some bullshit.

 

Fixing Tach.

1K resistor (Standalone ECU installs only - jump IG- to B+ in the diagnostics box if you have no tach in your gauge cluster)

I assume that this is a 12v pull up is that correct?

If so i need to do something a little different since i don't have the diagnostics box. could you give my primitive diagram the OK and or give an alternative solution.

Currently the tach pins on the coils are wired straight to the tach in the gauge cluster and the knocklite input.

Pretty sure Brain was right about the cam angle sensor. I ditched it for now and am running batch fire off of the crank position only.