1.6l: SMOKING. Built bottom end, smoke out of oil dipstick/valve cover
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Tune is pretty muc what it was before when I had my stock motor. Very conservative road turn. E85, timing up top is same as it was before when I had higher compression motor, boost is low about 5 psi. Afr is about 11.5.
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1.6 does not have EGR
Mod list is as follows: Supertech 8.1:1 pistons, scat rods, King bearings. Block was totally torn down and built from ground up. The rest of the mods are in my signature.
Mod list is as follows: Supertech 8.1:1 pistons, scat rods, King bearings. Block was totally torn down and built from ground up. The rest of the mods are in my signature.
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Just sounds like the guy didn't build it correctly, idk what else to tell you?
Either he messed up the ring gap/staggering, the pistons/bores are out of spec or you somehow fucked up the break in. Does it all of a sudden run shittier than it did 200 miles ago?
There is a guy BogusSVO that could probably help you out with specs and the like if you tear the motor down.
Either he messed up the ring gap/staggering, the pistons/bores are out of spec or you somehow fucked up the break in. Does it all of a sudden run shittier than it did 200 miles ago?
There is a guy BogusSVO that could probably help you out with specs and the like if you tear the motor down.
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Post your timig map.
If you are running e85 though not sure whats going on
Also especially since it started after a few hundred miles.
Whatever it is, you are fukked. Your rings prob.
Tear down with the builder present. Take pics. Im sorry
If you are running e85 though not sure whats going on
Also especially since it started after a few hundred miles.
Whatever it is, you are fukked. Your rings prob.
Tear down with the builder present. Take pics. Im sorry
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My timing map was very conservative. So that's not the issue most likely.
It still runs good. Just smokes that's all. If I only raced the car on a track I would leave it as is but I want to drive on a street and not have people telling me my car smokes.
It still runs good. Just smokes that's all. If I only raced the car on a track I would leave it as is but I want to drive on a street and not have people telling me my car smokes.
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aside from hard driving, another method i was told, get in 2nd or 3rd gear, semi accelerate to red line, engine brake back down, and repeat several times
but that was on a turbo 2.6l 4 cyl, cast block with heavy nickel cylinders
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I hear all kinds of ---- about breaking motors. It's all bs in my view. I did want my seposedly professional engine builder told me: drive it nicely for a while, they only detail he gave me was to keep it in gear when decelerating.
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The engine builder is saying something about "cylinder wash". He is saying that it possibly the car ran too rich first 100 miles or on first start up and the rings never seated. I have never heard of an issue like that. Anybody experienced this?
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The only way you could have done that, you would have had to been driving at richer than 10afr, and even then it wouldn't cause the rings to not seat, it would cause excessive wear,,to the point of very fine metal shaving in the oil. As well as your oil would be watered down with e85, would eat all the bearings up as well
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On your lasst tune, what boost pressure were you running?
What weight oil is in the engine now?
is it Dino? syn? syn blend?
Part of your issue sounds like bad valve stem seals, the puff of smoke on warm start up, and pull off from a stop light.
Did you have vition blue stem seals? or run the cheap rubber ones found in most gasket kits?
15% leakdown isnt too bad, but not good either.
What rings were used in the build? and what grit was the block honed with?
If you have chrome-moly rings, the block should have been honed with a 360 grit stone
Steel rings use a 220 grit
Full chrome rings use a 400 grit
Now if the block was finished honed say with a 220grit, then moly rings installed, this will rip the facing of the rings.
This would cause some smoking and blowby.
Now if it was finished with a 400 grit, and moly rings installed
The rings will not seat on the too smooth surface of the cylinder. smoke and blowby will happen here too.
Now what turbo is installed? What oil pressure is the turbo getting max?
Also, what size oil return from the turbo? Have you cheked for kinks?
Too much oil pressure, or too small oil return, can and will allow oil to build up in the turbo center allowing oil to leak into the turbo hot side that will cause smoke.
When you did the leak down test, did you pinpoint where the leakage was? intake valve? Exhaust valves? or was it all past the rings?
What weight oil is in the engine now?
is it Dino? syn? syn blend?
Part of your issue sounds like bad valve stem seals, the puff of smoke on warm start up, and pull off from a stop light.
Did you have vition blue stem seals? or run the cheap rubber ones found in most gasket kits?
15% leakdown isnt too bad, but not good either.
What rings were used in the build? and what grit was the block honed with?
If you have chrome-moly rings, the block should have been honed with a 360 grit stone
Steel rings use a 220 grit
Full chrome rings use a 400 grit
Now if the block was finished honed say with a 220grit, then moly rings installed, this will rip the facing of the rings.
This would cause some smoking and blowby.
Now if it was finished with a 400 grit, and moly rings installed
The rings will not seat on the too smooth surface of the cylinder. smoke and blowby will happen here too.
Now what turbo is installed? What oil pressure is the turbo getting max?
Also, what size oil return from the turbo? Have you cheked for kinks?
Too much oil pressure, or too small oil return, can and will allow oil to build up in the turbo center allowing oil to leak into the turbo hot side that will cause smoke.
When you did the leak down test, did you pinpoint where the leakage was? intake valve? Exhaust valves? or was it all past the rings?
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From: Minneapolis, MN
On your lasst tune, what boost pressure were you running?
With new motor I was and am running 5 psi.
What weight oil is in the engine now?
5w30 castrol gtx
is it Dino? syn? syn blend?
Dino oil.
Part of your issue sounds like bad valve stem seals, the puff of smoke on warm start up, and pull off from a stop light.
Did you have vition blue stem seals? or run the cheap rubber ones found in most gasket kits?
That I don't know for sure. I think they are vition seals
15% leakdown isnt too bad, but not good either.
What is good leak down on a somewhat loose tolerance forged piston motor?
What rings were used in the build? and what grit was the block honed with?
All the builder told me its that they are Nippon rings. I asked him what metal they are and I don't think he knows. At least he did not specify when I asked if they were moli, steel of iron.
If you have chrome-moly rings, the block should have been honed with a 360 grit stone
Steel rings use a 220 grit
Full chrome rings use a 400 grit
Now if the block was finished honed say with a 220grit, then moly rings installed, this will rip the facing of the rings.
This would cause some smoking and blowby.
Now if it was finished with a 400 grit, and moly rings installed
The rings will not seat on the too smooth surface of the cylinder. smoke and blowby will happen here too.
Now what turbo is installed? What oil pressure is the turbo getting max?
Turbo is original garret gt2554 from begi. Ita got about 5-7k miles on it. 8 inspected it before installing it and it looked perfect. It's a BB turbo so its got an internal restriction. It was primed when I first started the motor. Cracked the motor about 15 times (thee sets with 5 reps each) before giving it fuel and spark.
Also, what size oil return from the turbo? Have you cheked for kinks?
Pretty sure it's -4. Its the upgraded SS line from begi. No kinks drops right down to the oil pan.
Too much oil pressure, or too small oil return, can and will allow oil to build up in the turbo center allowing oil to leak into the turbo hot side that will cause smoke.
When you did the leak down test, did you pinpoint where the leakage was? intake valve? Exhaust valves? or was it all past the rings?
With new motor I was and am running 5 psi.
What weight oil is in the engine now?
5w30 castrol gtx
is it Dino? syn? syn blend?
Dino oil.
Part of your issue sounds like bad valve stem seals, the puff of smoke on warm start up, and pull off from a stop light.
Did you have vition blue stem seals? or run the cheap rubber ones found in most gasket kits?
That I don't know for sure. I think they are vition seals
15% leakdown isnt too bad, but not good either.
What is good leak down on a somewhat loose tolerance forged piston motor?
What rings were used in the build? and what grit was the block honed with?
All the builder told me its that they are Nippon rings. I asked him what metal they are and I don't think he knows. At least he did not specify when I asked if they were moli, steel of iron.
If you have chrome-moly rings, the block should have been honed with a 360 grit stone
Steel rings use a 220 grit
Full chrome rings use a 400 grit
Now if the block was finished honed say with a 220grit, then moly rings installed, this will rip the facing of the rings.
This would cause some smoking and blowby.
Now if it was finished with a 400 grit, and moly rings installed
The rings will not seat on the too smooth surface of the cylinder. smoke and blowby will happen here too.
Now what turbo is installed? What oil pressure is the turbo getting max?
Turbo is original garret gt2554 from begi. Ita got about 5-7k miles on it. 8 inspected it before installing it and it looked perfect. It's a BB turbo so its got an internal restriction. It was primed when I first started the motor. Cracked the motor about 15 times (thee sets with 5 reps each) before giving it fuel and spark.
Also, what size oil return from the turbo? Have you cheked for kinks?
Pretty sure it's -4. Its the upgraded SS line from begi. No kinks drops right down to the oil pan.
Too much oil pressure, or too small oil return, can and will allow oil to build up in the turbo center allowing oil to leak into the turbo hot side that will cause smoke.
When you did the leak down test, did you pinpoint where the leakage was? intake valve? Exhaust valves? or was it all past the rings?
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