When i get my window finished i will be on 17 psi on my small 16g putting down in the neighborhood of 300 whp with a dual stage system. Essentialy 2 basic systems working in tandem.

 

Man, i really want to see this car. Do you ever make it up to Louisville?

 

not realy but i am flexible i gave u plenty of routes that went near my house before

 

Yeah i still have those. I really need take a day with my girlfriend and go driving out there. I will let you know.

 

You know the rule.

 

Haha, we will take some pics next time i wash the car.

 

Pardon the dirty car

 

Nice, au natural.

 

pretty car wes

 

Haha thanks, on a side note, does anyone know an easy way to get the water out of my right rear tail light? You can see it in the picture above.

 

Drill a small drain hole.

That's pretty easy.

 

I wonder how noticeable it would be.

 

do it on the inside man and no one will notice they should come with holes in them geez. I would get it out before the **** froze and broke your outside though lol.

 

oh **** i didnt even think about it freezing. It went all winter like that.

 

Problem here is that the main cooling effect is from evaporation and water takes a certain amount of time to evaporate no matter what the temperature. Question is whether or not that placement will allow for enough time. That being said, most people who put the WI right before the TB probably aren't getting full evaporation either.

 

Mad respect to you man u understand this stuff to. The more POV we have that actually understand this the better we can help all understand.

 

Hey Rich I know what yall are saying. But I always thought that keeping the fogger as far away from the TB as possible was good but for other reasons. Spraying water into air it doesn't just evaporate. Well it does, but not much. My reasoning for keeping it further from the TB was for more even distribution. If this was a Wal Greens commercial and we were in 'Perfect', we would be spraying the water in a very fine mist directly into the cylinder right before the spark begins combustion, no? That way the water pulls heat out of the charge and nothing else. We don't want to cool the intake manifold, seats, valves, combustion chambers, cylinders, and pistons. We just want to keep the charge cool enough to suppress detonation. Of course on second though if the water did cool the cylinders, the the cylinders cool the charge too. So I dunno, your the WI guy not me. Straighten me out!

 

Hey Rich you on IM? Hit me up.

 

No we wanna cool everything, cause if you spray right before the combustion chamber u dont have time esp at higher rpms where the intake charge is moving alot faster. By cooling the intake etc you provide more of a buffer in the heat range as well it might not be perfect but it works. In a perfect world we would all have 70 degree aits and run 30 btdc timming and make mad hp. We do get a more even distribution pre TB and so long as we dont have to many turns the suspension of the water in the charge is gonna be nice and even, this will net us the best results everytime. This isnt nitrous etc pat the temp difference of the water is not what cool wholely its more the actual absorbtion value. Think of the water as a heat sponge and the methanol as alil octane booster. antifreeze helper.

 

Droplets can indeed damage compressor wheels, so you have to make sure that all liquid has vaporized before it reaches the wheel.

The Champ Cars ran a methanol nozzle upstream of the compressor wheel. The inducers of their compressor wheels eroded. We ended up nickel-plating the compressor wheels to resolve the foreign object damage.