Originally Posted by magnamx-5
(Post 66092)
becouse the pump isn't designed for continues use, and you will burn it out. When and, or if the pump goes this is a bad situation for you and your car.
Solenoids are 35 bux from McMaster. Nozzles are 4 bux. Frank |
The injector idea would be the ideal way to utilize the Emanage. Sounds like a stock 1.6 injector would do the trick.
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What nozzle is usually included with the DO kit? What pressure the pump hold?
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The pumps are rated over 100 psi free flowing but through that tiny nozzle pressure goes up big time. Most the Miata guys are running 3 gph except a few that chose 2's and a couple that are running 5's.
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the sureflow pump basic is rated at 140 psi and the upgrade is 200 something. And it is not continuos on as in my system is depends on a ground source to switch the pump on, if you try to dead head the system it will not hold pressure and you will most likely blow out the seals in it with the back pressure. The HSV that stops syphoning, or allows staged injection is a different idea wich still allows fluid to flow at some point of the pump on cycle.
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The Shurflo series 8000 pump (the one in the devilsown and other brands kit) comes with an integrated check valve (to avoid backpressure) and can be ordered with an integrated pressure switch. So can work as on on-demand pump coming on and off when the pressure in the closed system falls outside the given range.
So, teorically you can make the pressurized system even without the external pressure switch. To control spraying you can go with a hsv driven as an injector (or maybe a modified fuel injector directly)...or even a solenoid,but you won't be able to fine tune the flow, just on/off... I think that the modified setup with the "pressurized rail" is definitly worth trying if you have a free channel on your ecu and a spare injector... it's like having an aquamist 2c for a lot less... |
Yes but a complicated system like that would take alot of fine tunning for the record i am not a fan of the aquamist either. How many hp are you looking to pull. the single stage non progressice system should be good for 300 whp as a standalone provided a good WI mix and enough fuel. If i could have gotten my 460's to run correctly then i could have hit 300 whp at 15-16psi. As it was it felt like i was making 240-250whp at 12-13 psi before.
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Originally Posted by magnamx-5
(Post 66311)
Yes but a complicated system like that would take alot of fine tunning for the record i am not a fan of the aquamist either. How many hp are you looking to pull. the single stage non progressice system should be good for 300 whp as a standalone provided a good WI mix and enough fuel. If i could have gotten my 460's to run correctly then i could have hit 300 whp at 15-16psi. As it was it felt like i was making 240-250whp at 12-13 psi before.
But with the best response possible: super fast spooling, no lag. So I need to pull the less timing I can, no knock, and WI seems one of the best solutions. The system I describe is really simple, just the basic kit plus a solenoid and a pressure switch for the water system (but you can live without it), if you give up the injector driving. Anyway it will cost just few bucks more, has better control on injection point, because you can map it versus pressure and rpm... and have more room for the future... |
I am not agianst it i am just saying it is overkill WI on the standard ecu and fpr, i made 200 dynojet whp. at 8psi with wonderfull spool charactericts. If you have the time and money to do it this way go for it i would love to see it. There are alot of variables that make me shy away from trying something like this, money, possibilty of failure on multiple points, ie selonoid varius fuses, em software. i have found it is best to keep things simple when going into new stuff and then venturing forward from there.
This system you are describing would be awsome, and if you can implement it, effectivly i might just copy you. |
Its really about how far you think you need to take it vs the gains you will see. I think its silly to worry about it this much when you are still running a small exhaust and downpipe or piggyback. There are much better places to spend the effort.
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I don't think so. It won't be any more difficult than tuning the DO progressive controller. It's just putting the powerful EMU in place of a basic controller, which will allow tremendously better control and resolution.
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