Yes it should be easy, except for not having a setup built currently for either one.


Lets just hope TSE gets inconel m10 studs backs in stock then.

 

I have a few sets. Get them now, because there may be an extended lead time when these sets are gone.

 

Looking good ScottyP. I have open loop boost control working pretty well but I can't get closed loop not to overboost even with 200 P. I will post another log after I do some reading on ebc and get it running more consistent with different temperatures.

 

Had my open and closed duty backwards, was reading the instructions for a different firmware I guess.
Don't have a good log to post yet but I was pushing a pretty new sti around this morning, oscillating between 11 and 13psi. It feels very nice again.

 

To even further push the budget aspect of this purchase. I recommend Lars add an EBC Solenoid option. Preferably the MAC Solenoid that they sell for almost half the price of the GM on ebay. They work awesome and if Lars buys a bunch of them he could get them for even less. Just hook them up and run at 26hz and they work great.

Mac Boost Solenoid Valve BCS 35A AAA Ddba 1BA Compatible with Most ECU's EMS PWM | eBay

 

Is anyone using the GM one any more, I thought we all switched to the 19.5hz DIYautotne one?

Yours is still cheaper though.

 

lol 15 bux. but it's nice to have alternatives

 

its more or less the same thing. if you buy directly form the source the ARO solenoid that DIY sells can be had much cheaper...

the GM solenoid works just as well, but they fail often and regularly, dont hold up to heat well (both have limits) and they are harder to come by anymore.

 

At the end of the day it is probably easier and cheaper to just have the customer buy it if they want it. If I stocked and sold them I would have to have a markup on them. It would probably end up costing about the same as they sell on ebay. I much rather pass on the extra info about how to save money and let the consumer go straight to the source. The only reason I don't just have people buy the turbo is that I don't want them buying one that does not fit. I also put zero markup on the turbo in the pricing of my setups.

 

This is why everyone loves you

 

I'm preeeeeeeetty sure I have a DIY solenoid with barbs somewhere in my shed. It is unused.

Just sayin.

EBC Electronic Boost Control Solenoid Kit DIYAutoTune.com

 

The question that is currently on my mind is how much are people willing to pay for an IC setup that is AC/PS compatible to go along with my setup.

 

I'm gonna take a wild guess and say anything between the universal "kit" price of $200-250 and the name brand offerings from begi/fm of $900 is gonna work. I would personally not pay over 500. How much does cxracing charge again? 350? I think theirs was the cheapest actually fabricated/fitted non-universal "intercooler kit" I've seen. If you matched that, or even if you were a little over but close, I think you'd have customers.

 

I think I am going to aim for a $500 price point. Plan would to be use a vibrant core (same as Fa9) instead of cheap eBay cores. That adds a bit of cost, but I think the quality will justify the additional money. For the BOV I am thinking the eBay Tial knockoffs. IC pipe would all be aluminum and couplers and t-bolt clamps would be from silicone intakes.


CXRacing setup is $488 and honestly looks really jankey. If I can't beat them on price and quality then there are problems.

 

<p></p><p>Have you gotten a car to work reliably with that BOV yet? Mine sucks. A lot. I've tried the whole shaving the spring thing and everything. I car still goes pshhhhhh dew dew dew dew dew. lol</p>

 

I think I spent close to 300 on my setup with all clamps and couplers included. With a mediocre cx racing intercooler.
But I spent a lot of time measuring and checking clearances. I would have happily paid 500, even 600+ shipped.

 

I did get a $40 bov from Silicone Intake Systems which is also set as light as possible.

 

A little compressor stall never hurt anyone.

 

Go with the eBay 38mm one and take the spring and put it in a vice and lightly compress it. Then take a propane torch and heat it up then let it cool. Works beautifully.

 

<p><br />&nbsp;</p><p>I'm far too lazy to redo that i/c pipe for a 38mm BOV. If a new BOV was the solution i'd just buy a Tial one and call it a day.</p><p>I spent $120 on my i/c pipes, intercooler, reinforced&nbsp;couplers (black, of course), and clamps. But my froogle-ness&nbsp;often outweighs my laziness, and I likely wouldn't ever pay for an off the shelf i/c setup.</p><p>Comparing the market prices though, $500 seems fair.</p><p><br />I think I'll just shave more off the spring and see what happens. I have a spare.</p>