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Old Feb 13, 2018 | 06:07 PM
  #1661  
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WOW, what 3D filament is that?
Handles intense heat AND is strong enough to hang a turbo off!
If only - sigh :(

I assume it's multi-coloured because you ran out of filament?
How long did it take to actually print?
Old Feb 13, 2018 | 06:54 PM
  #1662  
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Originally Posted by Lokiel
WOW, what 3D filament is that?
Handles intense heat AND is strong enough to hang a turbo off!
If only - sigh :(

I assume it's multi-coloured because you ran out of filament?
How long did it take to actually print?
The first lightweight turbo manifold. It will get painted black with high-temp grill paint before being shipped out. This will prevent it from melting and make it look cool in all black.

I believe it took the guy who designed the manifold about 2 nights to print it.
Old Feb 13, 2018 | 06:55 PM
  #1663  
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cpierr03 here you go, this is the pic Lars sent to me when I installed mine. You will have to cut the hood latch racket on the passenger side. I cut an "7" basically out of the bracket. Just cut and then check fitment and cut more as needed
Old Feb 13, 2018 | 07:46 PM
  #1664  
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Originally Posted by thebigtuna
cpierr03 here you go, this is the pic Lars sent to me when I installed mine. You will have to cut the hood latch racket on the passenger side. I cut an "7" basically out of the bracket. Just cut and then check fitment and cut more as needed
Thanks! I've already removed my bracket for clearance, I might just ditch it if the latch is secure enough.

I did not have those L shaped brackets hence my confusion.

Based on my test fits so far, it looks like a significant portion of the front air dam will have to be cut. Would it be better to just remove this bit all together? Doesn't look like it will direct much air with the amount that has to be cut for fitment.
Old Feb 13, 2018 | 07:55 PM
  #1665  
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Hmm, might want to ask Lars about the L brackets. He will be gone for a week or so so might be easier to fab your own tbh. I can measure mine maybe and send dimensions if you are in a real hurry. Its a small 10mm bolt that threads into the spots. You could take the bolt holding the horn into ACE or somewhere and find another. I removed mine completely, I believe someone a couple posts up cut theirs up. I was planning on making my own ducting/splitter anyways so I didn't worry about it. Figured it would be easier than trying to cut it out perfectly like I would like, imo. If your latch stays secure without the bracket, that works.

Unrelated: Awesome looking manifold Lars, excited to see how it works out!

Last edited by thebigtuna; Feb 13, 2018 at 07:55 PM. Reason: words
Old Feb 16, 2018 | 12:22 AM
  #1666  
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Nice manifold!
Old Feb 16, 2018 | 08:36 AM
  #1667  
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Originally Posted by Lokiel
WOW, what 3D filament is that?
Handles intense heat AND is strong enough to hang a turbo off!
If only - sigh :(

I assume it's multi-coloured because you ran out of filament?
How long did it take to actually print?
Yeah, I ran out of the green because I had like 3 prints fail halfway through. Each half was about 4.5 hours to print, but it took several tries to get it right.

I actually designed it with a water jacket around the flow passages to keep it cool; between that and the high temp black paint, the temperature won't be a problem. The only concern at this point is the gorilla glue holding the 2 halves together.
Old Feb 16, 2018 | 11:37 AM
  #1668  
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Originally Posted by sonofthehill
I have mentioned this to some of us at MRLS. My tips are these.
Keep all the v bands loose and start with the front one. Make the downpipe touch the engine/transmission, it all moves together. Then adjust and tighten the rest of the v bands working towards the back. You can bend the hangers a little bit to get it just right if necessary.

I always want to orient the downpipe 1/2 way between the chassis and the transmission, took me a few times to stop doing that. The downpipe doesn't rattle against the engine/transmission, it rattles against the chassis.

Thanks! Tried it out as you said and it worked!. Noise is completely gone and I'm super happy about that. The new orientation left the exhaust with a leak where the downpipe connects to the turbo at the v-band. I'm going to retry and fit it better when I do my brakes. I'm worried that leak could mess with my afrs
Old Feb 16, 2018 | 11:50 AM
  #1669  
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Originally Posted by Engi-ninja
Yeah, I ran out of the green because I had like 3 prints fail halfway through. Each half was about 4.5 hours to print, but it took several tries to get it right.

I actually designed it with a water jacket around the flow passages to keep it cool; between that and the high temp black paint, the temperature won't be a problem. The only concern at this point is the gorilla glue holding the 2 halves together.
you designed an exhaust mani with water cooling?
Old Feb 16, 2018 | 11:54 AM
  #1670  
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Lars are you ever gonna do a T2 setup??
Old Feb 16, 2018 | 12:06 PM
  #1671  
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Originally Posted by 18psi
you designed an exhaust mani with water cooling?
CEGR?
Old Feb 16, 2018 | 12:06 PM
  #1672  
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Originally Posted by 18psi
you designed an exhaust mani with water cooling?
More importantly is that an EGR port on the right for emissions people? :-P
Old Feb 16, 2018 | 12:16 PM
  #1673  
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yes it is, that part I know (I'm Lars' CA emissions consultant for these things ). but I still don't understand water cooling an exhaust mani.
Old Feb 16, 2018 | 12:59 PM
  #1674  
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Originally Posted by 18psi
yes it is, that part I know (I'm Lars' CA emissions consultant for these things ). but I still don't understand water cooling an exhaust mani.
I'm pretty sure it's to keep the filament from going above it's melting point.
Old Feb 16, 2018 | 01:05 PM
  #1675  
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It's to pre-heat the blinker fluid
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Old Feb 16, 2018 | 01:08 PM
  #1676  
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Fear not Vlad, it's not water cooled. That was a statement of nonsense intended to induce mirthful chuckles, known in some cultures as a joke :-D
Old Feb 16, 2018 | 01:28 PM
  #1677  
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I only had 1 cup of coffee today. And it's Friday.
Old Feb 16, 2018 | 05:15 PM
  #1678  
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Originally Posted by 18psi
you designed an exhaust mani with water cooling?
Enji-ninja is the guy who designed my new manifold. Based on my current log manifold he was able to design something that should flow a good bit better then what I currently make.

Originally Posted by MhmmMarcus
Lars are you ever gonna do a T2 setup??
I cannot confirm or deny that a t2 based manifold is in the works. But if you look in my build thread you might be able to get a hint.


Originally Posted by MotoCARR
More importantly is that an EGR port on the right for emissions people? :-P
That is an EGR port. You just need to use a 99/00 egr tube.
Old Feb 17, 2018 | 07:22 PM
  #1679  
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So I saw mention of a ebay ball bearing t3 turbo earlier in the threads and was curious of any news on the matter. My 1.6 setup is maxed out at 206hp with lars's intercooler (cx racing big tooth) setup (intake temps start to spike). I'm chasing more power anyone know of a better intercooler option that wont break the bank?
Also curious if anyone has switched over to e85 on this setup and if so what power did you find?
Old Feb 18, 2018 | 10:24 AM
  #1680  
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1.8 swap. Seriously. The reason you’re maxed out is because of the poor flow characteristics of the 1.6L head. A bigger intercooler might keep your IAT’s down some, but your already past the point of diminishing returns. 5psi more might only get you 10-15hp.

I boosted my 1.6L so I could take my time with my 1.8L build. I’m actually pretty happy around 200hp, but there’s no question where I”m eventually headed.



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