2871=t2 flange

MKTurbo=t3 flange

Hence the problem finding a reasonable replacement

 

Womp

Looks like there are some 3067 and 3071 GTX's but they're way more expensive.

 

And will spool just as slowly as the gt3071r he already linked. The primary advantage of the GTX series is more flow for the same diameter compressor wheel. He doesn't need more flow than what the gt3071 will give.

A gt3067 would probably be better for his goals though

 

^I'm curious to see how the GTX performs, but me personally, I'd have a hard time spending that kind of cash and not just going for an EFR.

On another note, anyone else have issues with wastegate cans leaking? I'm on my third one. Each can can deal with 14psi for a few weeks, then they suddenly seem to start leaking boost from the diaphragm.

 

Yes I had the same issue. Get you a turbosmart wastegate actuator and never have a problem again.

 

Sonofthehill also had some issues and took his apart and resealed it. I think he has it good to hold 20+psi now. You can find info in his build thread. Or upgrade to a better stronger wastegate can as an option.

 

@SpartanSV ATP is offering the GT2x turbos in a T3 5-bolt Ford turbine housing. It "should" drop in to an MK setup.

Journal
https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...ory_Code=GTNBB

BB
https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchan...ode=gt-2860-T3

 

.48, .63 or .86?

 

I might end up picking up that 2860 one day. Only because I really want to install a disco potato sticker in my car.

Overall I think an EFR is a much better use of money over buying a Garrett turbo at this point in time.

 

Does this look like a problem to anyone else?

 

I'd do the .63 given the smallish size of the turbine wheel. If you're going BB, then maybe even the .86. It's really down to a preference of low end spool vs. top end flow.

The GT is a nice improvement over the T, and the BB upgrade is definitely worth the $135 up-charge IMO. But then you're at a grand for a turbo that is, at this point an older design. Like Lars said, the EFR is up on another level. I only recommended these ATP GT hybrids with the old T3 turbine because it was a straight drop-in and ATP's T3/T4s were only $100 cheaper (and too big). They used to be $500 turbos.

Where's our Garrett expert? @JKav

 

Saw that and was equally confused.

From what I understand, T3 .48 = T25 .64? Does that make sense? In that case the .86 would spool horribly even BB.

 

Except that the GT28 turbine wheel is smaller than the T3 wheel he's replacing. Add to that a more efficient compressor/wheel design and maybe BB. I went from a .48 to a .63 using a large Stage III wheel (55.88/ 65.02mm). I changed to a much larger intake manifold plenum, 65mm throttle body and EWG - my spool improved. Also consider the T3 turbine inlet is significantly larger than the T2. The wheel(s) design/size makes a much bigger difference in spool than the AR size.

 

The picture I posted is of the BB link you gave. How is that going to work with his current setup? The wastegate hole doesn't appear to be connected to the turbine housing.

 

Very weird but if click the next pic u can see the hole inside.

 

This is all too complicated lol. I think I'm gonna just put my spare eBay turbo in and work on getting an efr.

 

This is the same conclusion I reached when I was looking for an upgrade path for a built motor.

I also keep bugging Lars about a cast EFR manifold.

 

Internal vs. external WG - or was it before they fired their photoshop artist? The pages for the housings "alone" show the hole making full penetration.

Should I post up links to the EFR with a T3 turbine footprint?

 

I would expect clearance issues going to an EFR on lar's manifold. The downpipe definitely won't work without modification.

Kraken or trackspeed for manifold+downpipe would probably be the better way to go.

 

They make efr with t3?